DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel Watch Review
The DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel is the Swiss brand’s latest subaquatic model and will run alongside the SUB 200 sapphire bezel. Offered in ‘all eight DOXA colourways’, the brand seems determined to meet the desires of intrepid scuba types as well as desk divers with a vast array of ownership options.
Evolution and watchmaking
By its very definition, evolution is omnipresent. Faster, lighter, healthier, longer are just some of the superlatives that are employed by advertising professionals. If we contrast the cars available now with those made 30 years ago, there is no escaping that today’s generation of family hatchbacks are much safer, both for occupants and pedestrians. Furthermore, they have a tendency to use less fuel and emit less pollutants. Quite simply, many developments and changes represent progress.
In a similar vein, the watch industry continuously pursues advancement. Brands vie with one another, looking for alternative materials that offer a new aesthetic or enhanced durability. Moreover, the quest for superior precision has seen armies of boffins conceive new mechanisms and embrace cutting-edge materials such as silicium.
DOXA – an innovator
DOXA is no stranger to innovation. Indeed, back in the early 1960s, Urs Eschle, DOXA’s head of development, joined forces with ‘pioneer oceanaut’ Claude Wesley and his team. They ventured into Lake Neuchâtel and began evaluating the readability of watch dials underwater. In particular, they spent much time experimenting with different colours and eventually concluded that bright orange was the ideal choice for diving. Likewise, the brand has also embraced new materials where these have delivered advancement. For example, a few years ago, the Swiss marque unveiled a divers’ watch housed in an ultra-modern forged carbon case, a lightweight material with a wonderfully marbled appearance.
That said, DOXA also respects its patrimony, creating models that share some design elements with its historical references.
Ceramic bezels and sapphire crystal inserts
In common with several watch brands, DOXA offers a number of models featuring a bezel endowed with a ceramic insert. This material is scratch-resistant and won’t fade with the onset of years. For some time, DOXA has offered the SUB 200, its entry-level model, with a unidirectional bezel incorporating a sapphire crystal insert, again a material known for being scratch-resistant.
DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel – a new look
Recognising that some horophiles yearn for a vintage vibe, the company has just launched the DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel to complement its existing portfolio of SUB 200 references that come fitted with sapphire bezels.
On first hearing this, it may sound like overkill; however, just pause for a moment. There are legions of watch aficionados who prefer the look of watches fitted with steel or aluminium bezels. It’s a similar scenario to the numerous petrolheads who enjoy driving a classic car at the weekend. Objectively, old gas-guzzlers may lack some of the ‘it’ll drive itself’ electronic wizardry of today but their styling appeals to many who are more than happy to set aside such modernity for a taste of period charm.
However, save for the retro bezel, the new SUB 200 steel bezel shares the same specification as the sapphire bezel model ie the same eminently legible dial, the same robust case and the same self-winding Swiss movement. Quite simply, there is nothing intrinsically obsolete about this vintage-inspired model which is ideally suited to daily wear.
The DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel is available in ‘all eight DOXA colourways’ and is offered with a choice of period-themed ‘beads of rice’ bracelet or colour coordinating FKM rubber strap. The Sea Emerald dial proves the exception which is offered on a NATO strap instead.
DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel – closing remarks
With a vast array of references to choose from, I can’t help wondering if there was much hand-wringing among the brand’s bean counters. After all, as all financial types will tell you, there is always the matter of economies of scale to consider. Well, somehow, those clever people at DOXA have managed to deliver impressive quality, much choice and incredibly keen prices. It seems evolution never looked so good.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: DOXA SUB 200 steel bezel
- Case: stainless steel, dimensions 42 mm x 46 mm, height 14 mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres), sapphire crystal to front and solid case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date
- Movement: Swiss mechanical self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 38 hours
- Price: FKM rubber strap – £1050.00 (RRP as of 6.5.2025)
- Price: ‘Beads of rice’ bracelet – £1090.00 (RRP as of 6.5.2025)