Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial Watch Review
In 2021, Perrelet, once again, demonstrated its capacity for blue-sky thinking with the release of its LAB Peripheral collection. Comprising two models, the ‘3 Hands & Date’ and ‘Dual Time Big Date’, the watches were offered in a choice of black and silver dials, while the GMT model was also available with a blue dial. Later, the brand released green dial options for the delectation of nature lovers. Now, the brand synonymous with automatic watches, releases two new references endowed with classically-hued salmon dials, both offered with an integrated steel bracelet, a first for LAB Peripheral references.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
What’s in a name?
The name assigned to a product is often a strong clue to its intended character and product positioning. Perrelet, the historic watch brand that can trace its origins to 1777, has just unveiled two new additions to its LAB Peripheral collection, a suite of automatic watches. First unveiled in 2021, the ‘LAB Peripheral’ is an interesting choice of name.
The laboratory has been a home to innovation, delivering scientific advancement. From cutting-edge materials and labour-saving robotics to life-saving medicines, the laboratory has proved an incubator of ideas and pioneering know-how. Perrelet’s decision to use the word ‘LAB’ evokes thoughts of a high-tech world. However, Perrelet has an impressive track record for innovation.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date
Automatic calibres since 1777
Back in 1777, Abraham-Louis Perrelet, a master watchmaker extraordinaire, created the first automatic calibre. By adding a mechanism, the natural motion of the wrist was harnessed, energising the mainspring. Ultimately, this ingenious system was adopted by rival watch brands and has since become commonplace; however, Perrelet was the first.
Based on its impressive patrimony, the rotor has remained a key component of Perrelet’s brand DNA. For example, in 1995, the Maison released the ‘Double Rotor’, a watch endowed with two oscillating weights, both energising the mainspring, one positioned to the rear and the second to the front (dial side).
In 2009, Perrelet unveiled a new genre of watch, the ‘Turbine’, a contemporary expression of watchmaking that exhibits a unique mien. The Turbine features a ‘regular’ oscillating mass to the rear of the watch, energising the mainspring; however, it also incorporates a series of aluminium blades, located front of house, that freely rotate with the merest suggestion of arm motion. These latter blades do not harvest energy from the natural motion of the wrist, but rather deliver a captivating animated scene. As the turbine rotates with notable alacrity, it reveals a sublevel, positioned below, sometimes revealing a captivating scene.
Perrelet LAB Peripheral (2021)
Returning to the ‘LAB Peripheral’, the term ‘peripheral’ refers to the unusual oscillating mass. Most rotors or oscillating weights are semi-circular in shape and sit above the bridges positioned to the rear of the watch (verso). However, the LAB Peripheral models feature an oscillating mass that runs in a channel encircling the bridges, termed a ‘trottoir’. Sitting flush and adjacent to the bridges, rather than above them, this approach mitigates movement thickness and affords unrestricted views of the movement.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
The height of the Calibre P-411 fitted to the LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date is a mere 5.02 mm. The Calibre P-412, powering the LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date, is slightly thicker (6.32 mm) due to the added complexity of its movement.
Secondly, the oscillating mass within both movements is linked to a 180° weight, visible front of house, again running in a channel, residing below the hour markers. By adopting this approach Perrelet, indulges brand devotees with a charming quotient of dial side animation.
Now, the Swiss brand has released a new dial colour and unveiled a new integrated stainless steel bracelet for the LAB Periperhal. Having seen pre-production examples of these watches some months ago, I can already reveal the Salmon Dial references are my favourite LAB Peripheral models to date. Allow me to elaborate.
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – a new hue
Shortly after the emergence of electroplated watch dials in the early part of the 19th century, salmon coloured dials began to appear on pocket watches. But most notably, during the art deco period, the popularity of salmon dial ascended to new heights. Often combined with noble cases, the pairing of a salmon dial with a white gold case proved an especially harmonious combination.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
In recent years, the salmon dial has enjoyed a renaissance, often complementing a classically-styled creation. At first, it may seem incongruous that Perrelet has employed this historical shade for its collection of contemporary models; however, the brand has always enjoyed juxtaposing modernity and tradition. The resultant marriage imbues the Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial with a distinctive and eye-catching mien.
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – 3 Hands & Date
The plump hour and minute hands employ size, shape and a liberal application of white Super-LumiNova to impart meaning, all presented in lucid form. The central area of the dial comprises a salmon-toned disc with an interior formed of vertical lines, running north to south, and framed with a smooth, brushed circlet, positioned on a slightly higher plane. This latter circlet plays host to luminescent hour markers that cantilever over the channel that accommodates the 180° weight. Beyond the channel, a minute track fringes the dialscape. The inventory of functions extends to a central sweep seconds and a date indication at 6 o’clock.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date
Perrelet has cleverly played with contrasting motifs, finishes, depths and colours. The resultant dial does not sacrifice practicality on the altar of style, proving eminently simple to read.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – Dual Time Big Date
The Dual Time Big Date shares a familial likeness to its aforementioned sibling, the Perrelet LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date; however, as before, the clue’s in the name. The Dual Time Big Date indicates the ‘home time’ on a snailed subdial at 6 o’clock. Again, silver-toned luminescent hands impart meaning, while a day/night indicator ensures the wearer doesn’t phone their ‘better half’ at an unsociable hour. The ‘local time’ is indicated with the dominant hour and minute hands.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
Observant readers may have noticed the display, positioned below noon, presents the date via two apertures. Termed a ‘big date’ (or large date), the indication employs two discs, one for tens and a second for units. This system is technically more complex, with both discs having to work together to convey meaning; however, the resultant wide-screen format proves far easier to read.
Otherwise, both Perrelet LAB Peripheral references share the same dial detail, including the cantilevered hour marks and the dialside 180° weight running in said channel, adding an additional quotient of eye-appeal.
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – case
Both the LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date and the LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date are housed in the same 42 mm case. By using the same housing for both models, Perrelet can enjoy greater economies of scale, similar to Volkswagen Group using the same platform for several different models. This gain in efficiency allows Perrelet to deliver a watch with a wonderfully engineered case for a comparatively keen price. Indeed, the case, measuring 13.51 mm in thickness, is a complex fusion of lines, curves, depths and finishes; characteristics that tend to heighten cost.
Image – Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
The circular dial sits within a polished octagonal bezel, enlivened with a satin-brushed detail and high-gleam concave facets. The lugs feature bevelled edges that taper as they near the strap/bracelet. At the opposite end of each lug, where they meet the caseband, the lugs step outwards, adding an extra dose of complexity. Between each lug, the caseband is adorned with a fluted or crenellated motif, imbuing the case flanks with a smile-inducing play with depths.
To the rear of the case, the caseback incorporates a pane of sapphire crystal, granting sight of the self-winding movement, and is retained with six unusually-shaped screws.
For the first time, the LAB Peripheral is offered with a fully integrated steel bracelet. This is executed in a satin finish and is fitted with a stainless steel folding clasp. Perrelet continues to offer the watch with a colour coordinating calf leather strap, but personally, I would opt for the bracelet as it will prove far more practical in the long run. Moreover, with a stated water resistance of 5 ATM, snorkelling types will soon appreciate the drip-dry capacity of the metal band.
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – movements
The LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date is fitted with the P-411 calibre, a self-winding movement with a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz). This in-house movement, as you would expect of Perrelet, is automatic. The inventory of functions is comparatively short, namely, hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o’clock; however, its list of finishes is lengthy. The movement is rhodium plated, the mainplate is adorned with perlage, the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and incorporate 3N gold engravings. The oscillating mass is circular brushed and runs in a trottoir embellished with colimaçon. Comprising 243 components, including 30 jewels, the P-411 calibre will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Image – P-421 calibre found within the Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
A casual glance at the P-421 calibre, powering the LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date, would lead most observers to think they are identical. And, in many ways, the movements are virtually identical, sharing the same bridges and containing the same number of jewels. However, the presence of a dual time function and the added complexity of a big date display increase the parts count to 302.
Image – P-421 calibre found within the Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
Perrelet LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial – closing remarks
Perrelet’s decision to offer the LAB Peripheral collection with salmon dials seems very shrewd and I suspect it will soon prove the preferred choice for wannabe LAB owners. Similar to the white gold /salmon dial pairings that were popular during the art deco period, the combination of neutral steel and salmon works well on this contemporary creation.
The LAB Peripheral Salmon Dial wonderfully juxtaposes modernity with tradition. It embraces contrasting finishes, plays with depths, contours and colour, while at the same time delivers cohesion and beauty.
When appraising the models between forefinger and thumb, sometimes with a loupe to the eye, the detail and quality come to the fore and make their presence known. Indeed, the execution of the case and movement seem remarkably impressive, especially considering that prices start from €4,080. I suspect the aforementioned ‘platform sharing’ strategy is the main reason for this, a strategy that indulges horophiles with an impressive blend of virtue and value. It is this intelligent approach to watchmaking that is yet another example of Perrelet’s innovative mindset, a trait it shares in common with the Maison’s founder and the creator of the first automatic calibre, Abraham-Louis Perrelet.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet LAB Peripheral 3 Hands & Date
- Reference: A1100/6 (leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp)
- Reference: A1100/E (stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel folding clasp)
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42 mm x 42 mm, height 13.51 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, date
- Movement: Perrelet in-house P-411 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 30 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours
- Price – strap: €4,080 (RRP as of 12.2.2025)
- Price – bracelet: €4,180 (RRP as of 12.2.2025)
- Model: Perrelet LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date
- Reference: A1101/6 (leather strap with stainless steel folding clasp)
- Reference: A1101/E (stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel folding clasp)
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42 mm x 42 mm, height 13.51 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, big date, second time zone with day/night indicator
- Movement: Perrelet in-house P-421 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 30 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours
- Price – strap: €5,250 (RRP as of 12.2.2025)
- Price – bracelet: €5,350 (RRP as of 12.2.2025)
