Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art – A Tribute to the Quest of Time Watch Review
On one side of the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time watch, the hours and minutes are relayed by the arms of a golden titanium figure. On the reverse side, a celestial sky chart tracks the constellations in real time. As extraordinary as it may look, this poetic timepiece takes its inspiration from a Vacheron Constantin pocket watch of the 1930s and serves as a wearable tribute to the watchmaker’s 270th anniversary La Quête du Temps astronomical clock.
Image – Vacheron Constantin La Quête du Temps
For centuries, ancient traditions in watchmaking artistry have been closely guarded and nurtured within the walls of Vacheron Constantin’s ateliers in Geneva. Here, narratives etched into canvases smaller than the palm of your hand become living, breathing works of art. Brought to life with human hands, valued more greatly than machines, metal and enamel work are united. They form a theatrical stage for some of the industry’s most talented guillochéurs, engravers, enamellers and jewellers to showcase their skills, each one a master in their own art.
The enameller, for example, paints miniature scenes of landscapes by hand. The steady hand of the engraver carves celestial bodies and mythical creatures out of gold using techniques like champlevé and bas-relief. Likewise, the guillochéur is a master of a craft that relies on a deep understanding of geometry and mathematics. The new Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time wristwatch is in keeping with the purest of Vacheron Constantin traditions; a masterful fusion of horology and art.
Image – hand engraving
A Continuation of Vacheron Constantin’s Artistic Traditions
The new Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time watch by Vacheron Constantin continues to push the boundaries of decorative arts in watchmaking. The Manufacture has a long-celebrated history in designing celestial-inspired timepieces within the Métiers d’Art series, capturing man’s deep-rooted fascination with the cosmos.
Over the years there have been some notable releases, including the Métiers d’Art Copernicus Celestial Spheres watch, launched in 2017, with its Copernicus dial executed in three different Métiers d’Art techniques. Collectors were given a choice between Grand Feu enamel, laser-engraved sapphire crystal and hand-engraved zodiac signs. Another example is the recently released Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – a set of 12 zodiac-inspired models bearing intricate hand-guilloché illustrations. While not officially part of the Métiers d’Art series as such, the 2017 Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch deserves a mention too, as it is considered the spiritual predecessor to many of Vacheron Constantin’s astronomical creations.
The new Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time is not a complete departure from any of these aforementioned timepieces, but rather an evolution of the brand’s celestial language. Instead of pairing a relatively straightforward movement with an artistic technique like hand-engraving or Grand Feu enamelling, experts at the maison’s Genevan Manufacture incorporate a multi-patented mechanical movement into a human sculpture. The feature becomes the artistic centrepiece to this contemporary reincarnation of a much earlier concept explored by the brand in the 1930s – the Bras en l’Air pocket watch.
Image – Vacheron Constantin Bras en l’air pocket watch (1930)
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time – dial
With the help of astronomers from the Geneva Observatory, Vacheron Constantin pays homage to the past. The Maison has created a deep blue sapphire crystal dial depicting the constellations as they appeared above Geneva on the night of Vacheron Constantin’s birth in 1755. The figure of a man crafted from sandblasted and gold PVD-coated titanium sits at the front of this star-studded backdrop, flanked by two 18ct white gold and opaline displays for the hours (left) and minutes (right) – each marker rendered in contrasting 18-carat yellow gold. His arms function as a double retrograde indicator, prompting the wearer to observe the time from left to right in one sweeping motion.
Whilst this ‘arms in the air’ concept is not entirely new, there is now an option to enjoy the time display in one of two ways. Selecting the continuous ‘active’ mode allows the hands to move continually as time passes by, similar to a conventional set of hands. However, the ‘on demand’ mode, activated by the pusher at 10 o’clock, springs the arms into action, pointing momentarily to the time before resuming their position in a state of rest. In this mode, the continual timekeeping function runs invisibly inside the watch.
Above the sculpture’s head is a hand-engraved three-dimensional moon crafted from titanium, displaying its phases with profound accuracy. Its dark side emerges in a deep blue hue, while the other side of its hand-engraved surface is golden. This 3D precision moonphase feature is encircled by a ring showing the age of the celestial body over a period of 29.5 days. Additionally, the six-day power reserve is indicated using two sequential tracks, one residing at 7 o’clock (6-3 days) and the other at 5 o’clock (3-0 days).
The reverse side of the watch reveals another feat of engineering that is equally impressive. The celestial sky chart is laser-engraved into a piece of sapphire, tracking the constellations with staggering accuracy, deviating only by one day in 9,130 years.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time – case
The Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time is formed of 18-carat white gold, measures 43 mm in diameter and has a thickness of 13.5 mm, which is particularly impressive considering the complexity of the movement within. The front of the watch employs a double sapphire dial, serving as a backdrop for the celestial tableau, while the back not only affords a view of the mechanism at play but also accommodates a laser-engraved celestial chart.
The case is water-resistant to 30 metres and incorporates the aforementioned pusher at 10 o’clock.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time – Calibre 3670
The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time watch is powered by the in-house manual winding Calibre 3670. Interestingly, rather than adorn the movement with the customary Côtes de Genève motif, the company’s finisseurs opted for a circular satin brushed finish; anything fancier could risk clashing with the celestial vault that has been meticulously engraved onto the sapphire.
Inspired by the movement used within the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, the new Calibre 3670 has a frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz). Measuring 34mm in diameter and comprising 512 individual components, it took three years to develop. The highly inventive and complex movement is the subject of four patent applications. Crafted to a no-compromise standard, the watch bears the prestigious ‘Poinçon de Genève’ and a 270th anniversary emblem is engraved on the main calibre bridge.
Closing remarks
With the release of this model, created to coincide with the brand’s 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has shown it is committed to honouring its past whilst continually conceiving new expressions of Haute Horlogerie.
Its muse, the La Quête du Temps astronomical clock, shares the watch’s human figure, celestial backdrop and ‘on demand’ display complication. However, in some respects, it is more impressive because it miniaturises numerous complications into a small, wearable wristworn work of art. Indeed, it serves as a reminder that since its inception, some 270 years ago, Vacheron Constantin has repeatedly and masterfully united Métiers d’Art with extraordinary mechanisms.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time
- Reference: 7200A/000G-H103
- Case: 18-carat white gold, diameter 43 mm, height 13.5 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: dragging display of the double retrograde hours/minutes hands via the movement of the character’s arms. 3D precision moon and moon age. On two sectors: 6-3 & 3-0, indication of a 6-day power reserve. 18K gold Roman numerals hour markers and Arabic numerals minute markers. On the back, observation of the northern hemisphere celestial vault.
- Movement: Calibre 3670, hand-wound movement, frequency 36,000 vph (5 Hz), 55 jewels, 512 components, power reserve 144 hours
- Strap: deep blue alligator leather with gold thread hand stitching, 18ct white gold folding clasp
- Price: available upon request
- Limited Edition: 20 pieces