Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune Watch Review
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune and the Toric Petite Seconde Platinum Golden Hour perpetuate the brand’s strategy of crafting timeless expressions of Haute Horlogerie. Masterfully employing artisanal crafts and reimagining some of watchmaking’s traditions, Parmigiani Fleurier delivers a fresh and authentic vision of what constitutes ‘real luxury’.
Le Corbusier’s Architectural Polychromy
When creating two new versions of the Toric Petite Seconde, Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, chose to look beyond the familiar plains of the watchsphere, discovering a form of expressiveness from an alternative world. Terreni found inspiration in the work of Le Corbusier and his famous Architectural Polychromy, a palette of 63 timeless colours that, when combined, deliver a harmonious aesthetic.
Charles-Édouard Jeanneret (1887-1965), aka ‘Le Corbusier’, was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city just 35 km from Fleurier, but his influence on architecture and urban-planning stretched far beyond Switzerland’s borders. Famous for ‘the International Style’ and regarded as one of the most influential architects of the 20th century, Le Corbusier was often cited as a source of inspiration for several practitioners of modernism. Moreover, he viewed the world very differently from most of his contemporaries, rejecting unnecessary ornamentation and he was always receptive to using new materials and know-how.
The worlds of Terreni and Le Corbusier share much in common. While some principles remain unique to architecture, such as ‘the Pilotis’ and ‘horizontal windows’, the ideals of ‘clean lines’ and ‘truth to materials’ are evident in both men’s work. This is not the first time that Terreni has found inspiration in Le Corbusier’s vision when creating expressions of Haute Horlogerie.
Guido Terreni arrived at Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021
After Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, he soon began conceiving new models. Similar to vernacular architecture, he developed a design language specific to Fleurier, employing the materials available to him and using traditional crafts at his disposal. Moreover, Terreni conveyed a different vision of luxury, where design, materials and artisanal techniques were prioritised over conspicuous branding and ostentation. A man with an appreciation for Italian sartorial elegance, he has, on more than occasion, been inspired by the delicate nap of a fine woven fabric, replicating its subtle texture when conceiving the dial of a watch.
Back in 2021, when Terreni unveiled the inaugural members of the Tonda PF collection, he caught the watch press and retailers by surprise. This was not because the watches were outlandish, as they weren’t, but rather because they represented a new vision of luxury. Tonal contrast, nuanced textures, subtle contours and gentle lines represented a new visual dialogue between the creator and the wearer. These days, the cognoscenti has grown accustomed to the calm composure synonymous with PF under Terreni’s reign; a design language that doesn’t disrupt, instead preferring to soothe. Now, this delicate touch can be seen in two additional versions of the Toric Petite Seconde, models composed of many complex layers and dressed in refined, delicate shades.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune or Platinum Golden Hour
The platinum variant is endowed with a ‘Golden Hour’ coloured dial, while the rose gold model features a slightly darker ‘Rose Gold Dune’ toned display. I use the word ‘slightly’ in an effort to convey the subtle difference in shade between both hues. In a business environment where calculator-wielding bean-counters curtail creativity, it is refreshing to see Terreni having the freedom to play with the subtlest of details. Indeed, he has set aside so-called ‘economies of scale’ in his unwavering quest for perfection.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – dial detail
Gold lance-style hour and minute hands enunciate the time free of fuss and without pretension. They are executed in a silvery or golden hue, depending on the case option selected. Should you hold the watch between forefinger and thumb, gently manipulating it in the light, you will witness the hands wonderfully flirt with brilliance and shade. The fulcrum of the hands is punctuated with a mirror-polished centre, adding a soupçon of gleam.
The hands float above a hand-grained dial surface, the product of artisanal know-how. Formed of 18-carat gold, the dial is grained by hand to bestow a matte appearance. Using a historic technique, an abrasive compound, comprising tartar, sea salt, silver and demineralised water is applied to the surface of the dial using a series of brushes, each of varying stiffness. It is the combination of hand pressure and the brushes used that determines the resultant appearance of the dial.
In a celebrity-obsessed world, characterised by conspicuous consumption, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune (and Platinum Golden Hour) exude gentility. Indeed, the dial’s lightly textured epidermis is a paragon of seemly understatement.
Appraising the topography of the dial, various elements are presented at different heights. A recessed small seconds display resides at 6 o’clock, imparting meaning with a lone colour-coordinated hand.
Once again, it is the small details that impart lasting ownership delight. For example, the edge of the small seconds display is fringed with a gleaming circlet, while the hour track slopes downwards towards the case and is punctuated with neat hand-applied, gold indexes. The dial bears the brand’s ‘PF’ signature; clean, succinct and refreshingly minimal.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – case
Measuring 40.6 mm in diameter with a modest thickness of 8.8 mm, the Toric Petite Seconde shuns bulk, its dimensions befitting its quietly spoken visage.
Brand devotees will already be familiar with the Toric name. In 1996, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its inaugural watch, the Toric QP Retrograde. Housed in a tortue-shaped case, it featured a stepped bezel adorned with alternating gadroons and knurling. The design of the bezel was inspired by Doric columns, a detail which has remained one of the Maison’s aesthetic signatures ever since.
On this occasion, the bezel is circular in form and is presented with one ring of gadroons and knurling. Personally, I prefer this latter approach, appreciating the purity and simplicity of the Toric Petite Seconde’s design.
As previously mentioned, the watch is available in two variants, the Platinum Golden Hour and the Rose Gold Dune (18-carat rose gold). Both models are paired with a colour-coordinating hand-stitched, nubuck alligator leather strap. The colour of each strap, no doubt the product of protracted consideration, imbues each reference with a sense of cohesion.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – Caliber PF780
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal allows the wearer to view the hand-wound movement in all its glory. Most movements comprising a mainplate and bridges are formed of rhodium-plated brass. However, the Caliber PF780 is made of 18-carat rose gold, one of the least reactive metals, obviating the need for plating.
In addition to being costly, gold is also challenging to work with due to its softness. Indeed, watchmakers must exercise great care at all times to avoid scratching the material. However, the resultant appearance of the noble metal transcends all other materials.
The finishing of the movement is also exquisite. The mainplate is sandblasted, the bridges are adorned with an unusual motif termed Côtes de Fleurier and the screws are beautifully polished. Purists will inevitably go weak at the knees on seeing the hand-bevelled steel bridges retaining the balance and the barrels. These bridges feature crisp, interior angles and have been mirror-polished to a flawless conclusion.
By equipping the Caliber PF780 with twin barrels instead of relying on just one barrel, the force serving the escapement will be more linear, enhancing rate stability. Once fully wound, the twin barrels provide a prodigious power reserve of 60 hours.
Unlike an index-regulated balance, the Caliber PF780 features a variable-inertia balance. With this latter form of regulation, the watchmaker adjusts the inertia weights, located on the rim of the balance wheel, to make the watch run faster/slower. This superior means of regulation allows the watchmaker to fine-tune the rate to achieve greater precision. Moreover, should the watch be subjected to a mild shock, it is less likely to require remedial regulation.
Closing remarks
When cradling the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde in one’s hands, it is difficult not to succumb to its seductive charms. It does not wear a thick layer of make-up nor does it flaunt a large logo or proclaim its arrival when it enters a room. On the contrary, this watch is an exemplar of discreet luxury.
The Toric Petite Seconde is beautifully woven to form a story of colour, texture, light and depths. It unites craft and know-how with materials. Indeed, this model adheres to Le Corbusier’s ideals of clean lines and ‘truth to materials’.
Guido Terreni clearly respects Le Corbusier’s legacy; however, in common with the finest creative minds, the Italian-born CEO also takes inspiration from other fields. Personally, when I look at these latest versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde, they evoke thoughts of sun-kissed buildings in Tuscany. As the light changes, the architectural palette evolves, revealing new tones and highlighting once-hidden textures. However, irrespective of the images each model elicits within my mind, most observers will clearly see Guido Terreni’s artistic prowess is boundless.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold Dune
- Reference: PFC940-2010002-300181
- Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 40.6 mm, height 8.8 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre PF780, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 157 components.
- Bracelet: sand-gold hand-stitched, nubuck alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: CHF 47,000 (RRP as of 30.9.2025)
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum Golden Hour
- Reference: PFC940-2010003-300181
- Case: platinum, diameter 40.6 mm, height 8.8 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre PF780, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 157 components.
- Bracelet: Akoya grey hand-stitched, nubuck alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle
- Price: CHF 54,000 (RRP as of 30.9.2025)
