Romain Marietta of Zenith – interview
Angus Davies, a self-confessed watch obsessive, chats with Romain Marietta of Zenith and discusses the legendary El-Primero movement along with the Manufacture’s G.F.J. Calibre 135, the recent winner of the ‘Chronometry Prize’ at GPHG 2025.
Image – Romain Marietta of Zenith wearing the G.F.J Calibre 135
The dangers of brand awareness
Brand awareness tends to seduce the uninitiated. Whether it’s cars, handbags, shoes or watches, the luxury world creates desire by employing a suite of marketing tools. For example, sports sponsorship or signing-up beautiful/handsome ambassadors may tempt naive wannabes to part with cash. And let’s not forget the countless adverts gracing the pages of lifestyle magazines, suggesting that a decadent lifestyle is just a quick flex of a credit card away. However, should you scratch the shiny surface and view said products with a critical eye, you often find that beneath the veneer, there is an absence of substance. Those seeking to purchase luxury goods should remember one golden rule: caveat emptor.
Image – Zenith watch advert for Danish market (1916)
Zenith – genuine substance
As a self-confessed watch obsessive and former marketing professional, I’ve developed a remarkable talent for detecting unwarranted praise. Indeed, I have sufficient insight to discount the statements made by a product manager with a penchant for hyperbole.
This brings me to the Swiss Manufacture, Zenith. If, like me, you are fond of the Swiss marque, then clearly ‘you know’. There is much substance to the products that Zenith crafts within its historic Manufacture. Personally, I’m no stranger to El Primero ownership and I can attest there is much virtue to be found beneath a dial bearing the brand’s star-shaped logo. This does not mean that Zenith is averse to marketing its products, but rest assured, there is much substance underpinning the glossy imagery. Indeed, several years ago, I toured the Manufacture and witnessed it making a vast array of components. Hugely impressed by the brand’s in-house expertise, I have remained an avowed brand devotee ever since.
Image – Zenith Manufacture (1916)
Zenith El Primero
In the late 60s, Zenith, Breitling/Heuer and Seiko were all burning the midnight oil, vying to be the first company to release a self-winding chronograph. Surprisingly, they all achieved this goal in 1969. Who was first? Well, that’s a moot point and to some degree it boils down to semantics and personal interpretation. However, what is not in question is the brilliance of the El Primero movement. While I don’t seek to offend the aforementioned brands, Zenith’s movement was, technically speaking, the most impressive.
Image – Zenith El-Primero movement Ref. 3019 PHC
The inaugural, automatic chronograph was endowed with a lateral coupling and column wheel and featured a balance with a frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz). This latter characteristic was particularly unusual. The potential problems with high frequency movements is that they consume more energy, have a greater thirst for lubricants and parts have a tendency to wear more readily. But Zenith overcame such issues with its groundbreaking calibre. Moreover, the movement’s high cadence meant the balance was less susceptible to shocks, augmenting precision.
Since the El Primero was unveiled in 1969, the movement has evolved. For example, the latest version of the movement, the El Primero 3600, now has a power-reserve of 60 hours. However, while the Swiss marque has continuously sought to improve the El Primero calibre, the brilliance of the original design, now some 50 years old, has lost none of its lustre. The El Primero lives on in many of the brand’s collections today.
Zenith – 160th anniversary
This year, Zenith is celebrating its 160th anniversary. To coincide with this landmark, the Le-Locle based brand has released numerous ‘novelties’.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Following the success of the Chronomaster Sport, winner of the ‘Chronograph’ prize at GPHG 2021, the firm launched a new version of the model in August 2025, endowed with a meteorite dial.
Image – Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM
One month later, in September, Zenith announced a collaboration with USM Modular Furniture. The watch brand created a range of period-style chronographs, executed in USM’s iconic colour palette. These hues, once exclusive to the high-end Swiss furniture specialist, now dress the dials of 60s-inspired models fitted with steel ladder bracelets. The resultant watches pay tribute to Zenith’s heritage while at the same time conferring a high quotient of freshness, courtesy of the cheery dial tones.
Image – Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM
Zenith Defy Zero G
Not every watch featuring an El Primero movement is a chronograph. Back in 2008, Zenith unveiled the Zero G concept, a prototype model that was subsequently reinterpreted and went on sale in 2018. In October 2024, Zenith unveiled two Defy Zero G models; one housed in ‘a full blue sapphire case’ and a second version presented in ‘a full transparent sapphire case’. Each model is limited to 10 pieces. Both versions indicate the hours, minutes, small seconds (at 9 o’clock) and feature a power-reserve indicator (3 o’clock), but there’s no chronograph. So far, so conventional? No, nothing could be further from the truth; the Zenith Defy Zero G is a horological tour de force.
Image – Zenith DEFY Zero G – full blue sapphire case
The regulating organ sits within a ‘”Gravity Control” gyroscopic module’, a type of gimbal that ensures the regulating organ is always in the horizontal position, countering any adverse positional influence. Upholding El Primero tradition, the movement has a frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz).
Image – Zenith DEFY Zero G – full transparent sapphire case
Creating a case from sapphire crystal is time-consuming. Firstly, you need to grow a boule of aluminium oxide crystal which takes several days depending on the size required. Thereafter, it must be cut and polished, a protracted process that is very challenging due to the hardness of the material. Zenith also endues these models with dials formed of Lapis Lazuli. Irrespective of whether the sapphire crystal is blue or transparent, it is the product of patience and skill.
Zenith – beyond the El Primero
Some watch brands blessed with an iconic bestseller choose to divert all resources to that one product line, keen to milk the cash cow for all its worth. However, rather than becoming typecast, Zenith has shown itself to be a versatile performer. Yes, the El Primero is an important pillar of the brand, but it should be remembered that the Maison was founded in 1865, more than 100 years before the El Primero was a glint in its creator’s eye.
Earlier this year, at Watches & Wonders 2025, Zenith reminded all watch obsessives of its extraordinary patrimony with the unveiling of the G.F.J., a hand-wound timepiece encased in platinum and featuring a lapis lazuli dial. On seeing the watch for the first time, I was immediately smitten. A few weeks later, I wrote about the watch at length and declared it was in my ‘Top 5’ for 2025. As the curtains nearly draw shut on 2025, I see little reason to change my opinion.
Image – Zenith G.F.J.
I’m not alone in my adoration for the G.F.J., the Academy and Jury of the GPHG recognised the model’s excellence with the award of the ‘Chronometry Prize’ in November 2025.
Recently, I had the opportunity to chat with Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer of Zenith, with the G.F.J. firmly on my agenda.
Romain Marietta of Zenith – Q&A
Angus Davies (AD): Can you tell me a bit about your background?
Romain Marietta (RM): I was born in the canton of Neuchâtel. My father was a dial manufacturer which provided me with my first insight into the watchmaking industry. However, I was not particularly interested in this field until I was 23, at which point I suddenly fell in love with watchmaking, especially engineering. I joined Zenith in 2006 as a trainee and was subsequently hired the following year (2007) as a Junior Product Manager (marketing) taking care of one collection. I was responsible for various things, including user manuals, catalogues and also the analysis of sales. It was my first official contract.
I had studied marketing, PR and advertising, but then I had the chance explore other areas and assumed the role of a senior product manager in the Marketing Department, where I took care of 15 different collections. When Jean-Frédéric Dufour joined Zenith (now CEO of Rolex), I joined the Product Development team and we did the first collection together. Today, I’m in charge of products, look after the brand’s Heritage Department and sit on the Executive Committee. I’m a single brand man, which is very unusual, but I’m still here because I’m passionate about what I do.
Angus Davies (AD): This year, Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary and has released numerous new models to mark the occasion. A few months ago, at Watches and Wonders, Zenith unveiled the G.F.J. Calibre 135. I subsequently wrote about the watch and said at the time it was in my ‘top 5 for 2025’. I can see you are currently wearing this watch. My first question is…. Is that your watch?
Romain Marietta (RM): (Romain laughs) In our creative studio, we have a vault containing various watches. I always choose to wear the G.F.J. whenever I can because I love it. I especially like the brick motif decorating the bridges. I think it looks cool and serves as a reminder that the Manufacture is made of brick.
Angus Davies (AD): I believe the Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 has been a huge success. Bearing in mind that the watch, limited to just 160 pieces, has probably sold out, is it likely that Zenith will create alternative versions of the G.F.J Calibre 135 in different colours, executions, etc?
Romain Marietta (RM): We would like to establish the model as a permanent collection. This year’s G.F.J. is a limited edition model, but it’s not just a one-off. The combination of platinum, lapis lazuli and brick guilloché to the rear is unique to this anniversary edition, but we’re going to produce a new one next year.
Every year, we’re going to produce a new, limited edition model. Availability will be limited as the production capacity of the Calibre 135 is low. This is because it’s very refined, crafted by hand, highly finished… so we can’t produce 2,000 of them. Every year, the number of limited edition pieces will increase by one eg 161, 162, 163… It will remind you of the year the watch was made ie 2025, 2026, 2027.
Then we will also do some other things with the Calibre 135. We have been working with some independent watchmakers, so we’re going to do some collaborations around it. As you may know, we did a collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and we would like to work with some other independents. So, the plan is to do two every year. We have two in the pipeline for 2026 and we have already planned a further model for 2027
Image – Romain Marietta of Zenith wearing the G.F.J Calibre 135
Angus Davies (AD): Zenith is one of the few brands that I can think of which has a collection of watches named after a movement. This year, the Manufacture has released several new references equipped with the El-Primero chronograph movement, including contemporary models as well as the Chronomaster Original and Revival creations. How do you see the El-Primero collection developing in the years to come?
Romain Marietta (RM): If you look at rival brands, there is no other company still working with a movement it invented 56 years ago. This demonstrates how well the El Primero was made. We have continuously improved the movement, but the original calibre created in 1969 remains a very good movement and it is a strong asset of the brand. We continue to improve it by adopting new technologies. This is something we did with the Calibre 135. Back in 1949, the movement had a power-reserve of 40 hours but now we have been able to increase that figure to 80 hours.
Image – Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Today, rather that sketch movement designs on paper, we can simulate everything on computers. We look at optimising the power and gear trains, etc. But when you do this with the El Primero, you discover there’s little you can improve. It’s for this reason the El Primero is such an icon.
Image – Zenith El-Primero movement Ref. 3019 PHC
Closing remarks
In the watch industry, it is the norm for individuals to move from one brand to the next. Indeed, if you scour various LinkedIn profiles, it seems 12 – 18 months is the usual period a young professional spends in a role before moving to pastures new. Clearly, Romain Marietta is happy driving to Le Locle each day. He’s a company man who loves the brand he works for and, based on his non-verbal behaviour, adores what he does.
It’s Romain’s passion, and that of his talented colleagues, that sees the Swiss marques release new expressions of the El Primero calibre, and most recently, the G.F.J. Calibre 135. However, this company’s greatness is not a modern phenomenon, it dates back 165 years, to 1865, when Georges Favre-Jacot (1843-1917) established his Manufacture, a building where numerous watchmaking trades worked side by side, all under one roof.
A vertically integrated Manufacture, with a history of making movements for établisseurs as well as crafting timepieces bearing its own name, Zenith has the necessary horological bona fides. Indeed, it can legitimately employ an array of marketing tools with a clear conscience, knowing there is substance behind the sponsorship deals and the glossy advertising images. Quite simply, Zenith makes superb watches and the brilliance of the brand’s star-shaped logo shines brighter than ever.