Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer marks the 30th anniversary of the Swiss marque opening its Manufacture in Fleurier. Housed in a 36.5 mm Lucent Steel case, the model features a hand-guilloché dial and incorporates the L.U.C Calibre 96.40L, a ‘direct evolution of the first movement conceived and produced by Chopard Manufacture’.
Chopard Manufacture – founded in 1996
When appraising the upper echelons of watchmaking, one must quickly learn to separate surface-level charm from the enduring pull of refined horology. It is the latter, of course, that Chopard chooses. The L.U.C collection, the ultimate expression of Chopard ownership, has long possessed a level of elegance that can hold the connoisseur’s gaze for more than a few seconds. Two years ago, I became captivated by the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial, encased in warm 18ct yellow gold. The watch serves as a prime example of Chopard’s penchant for revisiting its archives to inspire the present. Its dial plays host to a hand-guilloché honeycomb pattern, a delicious speciality of the house. Beneath it, of course, resides an exquisite mechanical movement.
This year, Chopard has chosen to mark the 30th anniversary of its Fleurier-based Manufacture, a building that has since become a centre of horological excellence. In 1996, the company produced its inaugural movement, the L.U.C 1.96, featuring numerous technical refinements. The following year (1997), this movement was housed within the now-iconic L.U.C 1860. It is this model from the past that has inspired the creation of the new L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, a watch endowed with a hand-guilloché dial, dressed in a becoming ‘Areuse Blue’ hue.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer – case
Measuring 36.5 mm in diameter, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer has a thickness of 8.20 mm, conferring a wonderfully svelte profile. Neat and understated, the case shares the same dimensions as the original L.U.C 1860, introduced in 1997.
Chopard has opted to craft this anniversary case entirely in Lucent Steel. Twice refined, the alloy is 50% harder than conventional stainless steel, providing this elegant dress watch with a welcome degree of resilience. Simultaneously, Lucent Steel exhibits a notable brilliance and appears whiter than regular 316L, a result of its higher purity.
The architecture of the case is a blend of juxtaposing finishes. The flanks and the inter-horn spaces are vertically satin-brushed to create a muted, textured appearance that absorbs the light, while the bezel and lugs exude brilliance with their polished curves.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer – dial
The dial of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer is elegant, yet simple to interpret. It is richly textured without sacrificing readability. Some former models have featured hand-guilloché dials executed in a honeycomb style, a historical motif first used by Louis-Ulysse Chopard; however, on this occasion, the Maison has opted for an alternative pattern. Once again, imparted using a traditional rose-engine lathe and dressed in “Areuse Blue”, the solid gold dial is adorned with a radiating motif. Skilfully crafted by Chopard’s artisans, the colour and pattern are intended to evoke the fast-flowing Areuse River, a waterway famed for its dramatic gorges and the ever-shifting blues it exhibits as it carves through the Val-de-Travers. It is a fitting tribute, considering it was in this place that Chopard’s restored Manufacture has played such a pivotal role in reviving the watchmaking prestige of Fleurier. Beneath natural light, the dial proves wonderfully expressive, its tones transitioning from a vibrant, ice-cool azure to a deep, almost mysterious navy depending on the angle of the wearer’s wrist.
The scalloped, wave-like motif of the hand-guilloché centre spreads outwards, delineated from the smooth neighbouring hour track with a fine circlet of sauté piqué. Graceful, chevron hour markers, each tapering towards the centre, are teamed with Dauphine hour and minute hands, indicating the prevailing time. Positioned at 6 o’clock, a small seconds dial with a snailed centre enriches the scene with additional texture and is once again outlined with a ring of sauté piqué. The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer also omits a date window, a decision that will undoubtedly meet with the approval of many purists. Finally, a satin-brushed chapter ring frames the beautiful horological scene.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer – movement
Turning the watch over reveals an expansive sapphire crystal, revealing the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a descendant of the Calibre 1.96, first unveiled in 1996. The secret to its slenderness is a micro-rotor crafted from 22ct gold, bearing the engraved L.U.C logo. The rotor sits flush with the neighbouring bridges rather than being perched on top, mitigating the height of the calibre and affording views of numerous movement parts, each finished to a flawless standard.
Chopard’s Twin Technology utilises two stacked mainspring barrels, delivering a respectable 65-hour power reserve. Furthermore, by having two barrels, the force ultimately serving the escapement is more linear. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, while the mainplate is decorated with perlage. The balance spring features a Phillips terminal curve, causing it to breathe more concentrically, improving isochronism. The watch, including the movement, bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, a supreme guarantee of origin and artisanal craftsmanship.
Closing remarks
It fills me with immense joy to see a brand faithfully revisiting a definitive classic without diluting its original charm. The temptation in modern watchmaking is often to supersize or overcomplicate, but Chopard has resisted this with the L.U.C 1860 Chronometer. This continuation of the 1860 line proves that Chopard has not lost sight of the importance of mechanical virtuosity and artisanal craftsmanship. Fulfilling the onerous requirements of the Poinçon de Genève, the solid gold hand-guilloché dial, the proprietary Lucent Steel case and the COSC-certified micro-rotor movement collectively make a compelling reason for selection. Chopard not only celebrates the last thirty years of its Manufacture, crafting beautiful expressions of Haute Horlogerie, but also perpetuates traditions, contributing to Fleurier’s rich watchmaking heritage.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer
- Reference: 168860-3005
- Case: Lucent Steel, diameter 36.5 mm, height 8.20 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, stop-seconds function
- Movement: L.U.C 96.40-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève
- Bracelet: anthracite grey grained calfskin leather strap paired with a Lucent Steel pin buckle
- Price: £23,900 (RRP as of 14.5.2026)