NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423 Watch Review
Angus Davies gets hands-on with the NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423 and shares his thoughts on the square watch with the captivating silver-toned dial
NOMOS At Work Series
NOMOS celebrates the notion of work with its latest collection of models, the ‘At Work’ series. This collection of 14 new timepieces includes many of the brand’s iconic models, each delivered with a new dial option. Perhaps the most noteworthy members of the ‘At Work’ series are those models equipped with ‘silvercut dials’.
Berliner Blau
Recently, I busily negotiated the back streets of Berlin, keen to reach the offices of Berliner Blau, a subsidiary of NOMOS Glashütte, in order to be on time for the launch event of the new ‘At Work’ series. My own work ethic was never in question. A smattering of beading on my furrowed brow, provided the necessary proof of my professional diligence.
On reaching Berliner Blau, I listened to the presentation about the new models and joined other journalists for a period of evaluation, thumbing sapphire crystals and trying on the various watches assembled.
Orion, Tetra, Metro and Tangente models with silvercut dials
My favourite models were those equipped with silvercut dials, save for a gold encased Metro model which I will review in due course. Tangente, Metro, Orion and Tetra all vied for my affection with their new horizontally brushed dials. In the end, I favoured the latter timepiece, the Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut.
NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423 – dial
Slender, thermally blued hands grace the dial of the NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423. The elongated minute hand virtually kisses the markings on the minute track and proclaims the time with clear tone, courtesy of its svelte profile. Positioned every 5-minute integer, two-digit Arabic numerals occupy the minute track.
Each even-numbered hour is denoted with Arabic numerals. The font is slender, lengthy, crisp and highly legible. The odd-numbered hours are imparted with slim, black batons.
The snailed small seconds display is positioned on a lower plane. It masterfully plays with texture and depth like an Old Master. The hand on the small seconds display is delivered in a vivid red, a tone which features on some of the other models equipped with silver cut dials.
The visual highlight of the Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut is the dial epidermis. The rhodium-plated horizontal brushed motif imbues the dial with fine lines of differing shades of grey. It is the colour and texture of the dial which makes it appear special.
NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423 – case
The square case is formed of two parts and measures 33mm x 33mm. The shallow case height of 7.3mm predisposes the watch to nestle beneath the cuff of a shirt. Indeed, this is a very neat timepiece.
All surfaces of the stainless steel case are highly polished. The straight sides of the case confer a clean mien devoid of the extraneous. Again, the lugs are straight and beautifully stepped, reminiscent of an Art Deco timepiece.
The crown is sizeable, allowing for simple manipulation.
Having expended much effort on creating its own automatic caliber DUW 3001, it seems very appropriate that NOMOS Glashütte has equipped the Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut with an exhibition case-back. Indeed, this is a view worth savouring.
NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut – caliber DUW 3001
The NOMOS Glashütte caliber DUW 3001 exhibits a slender profile, measuring a mere 3.2mm in height.
NOMOS Glashütte has shown its technical prowess by creating its own movement including its own assortiment or ‘swing system’.
The movement is beautifully appointed. The main-plate is adorned with perlage and the bi-directional oscillating mass is open-worked and decorated with Glashütte ribbing, a motif similar in concept to Côtes de Genève. Beneath the oscillating mass sits the three-quarter plate again decorated with Glashütte ribbing.
Interestingly, watches made in Glashütte have featured three-quarter plates for over 150 years. The primary benefit of a three-quarter plate, when contrasted with conventional bridges, is enhanced stability.
The balance has a frequency of 21,600 VpH and the movement has a power reserve of 43 hours.
NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423 – closing thoughts
I have previously reviewed a Tetra model having fallen for its square case and minimalist styling. However, the new Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut usurps its older sibling, courtesy of its horizontally brushed grey dial. Quite simply, the dial surface is stunning.
NOMOS Glashütte has built on the beauty of the dial by equipping it with harmonious elements, augmenting its appeal. The snailed small seconds display, with its vivid red hand, tastefully enlivens the dial with just a modicum of vibrancy. The lithe hour and minute hands are exquisite, deftly articulating time with their thermally blued profiles. Beyond the aesthetic prowess of the dial, the display proves highly legible.
In purely commercial terms, round timepieces outsell other shapes of watches. Therefore, NOMOS Glashütte should be applauded for its bravery in releasing a square-cased timepiece.
Despite its modest asking price of £2980 (RRP as of 20.10.2017), the NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut incorporates a manufacture movement, finished to an impressive smile-evoking level. I can think of few other watches which match this level of quality for such a modest sum of money. Indeed, the irony is that, despite the name of this collection of models, would-be buyers do not have to work too hard to afford one of these highly agreeable timepieces.
Further information
https://nomos-glashuette.com/en
Technical specification
- Model: NOMOS Glashutte Tetra neomatik 39 silvercut 423
- Case: Stainless steel; dimensions 33mm x 33 mm; height 7.3 mm; sapphire crystal to front and case-back
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Caliber DUW 3001; Self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve 43 hours
- Strap: Black leather strap supplied with pin buckle
- Price: £3,340 (RRP as of 25.7.2023)