A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Watch Review
Launched in 2009, the critically acclaimed A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk presents time in a highly legible digital format. The large numerals, presented centre stage, advance in a wonderfully choreographed sequence, transitioning from one value to the next in the blink of an eye. And yet, despite the apparent simplicity of the dial, the model’s beautifully crafted movement is highly intricate and brims with patented know-how. Angus Davies looks closely at the second generation references, launched in October 2022, taking the reader by the hand and guiding them through a world of peerless craftsmanship and no-compromise watchmaking.
A. Lange & Söhne returns home (1990)
On 7 December 1990, approximately 13 months after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Walter Lange re-registered the A. Lange & Söhne brand, re-establishing the family firm that was founded by his great-grandfather, Ferdinand Adolph Lange in 1845. Moreover, Walter Lange chose to return to Glashütte, the picturesque town in Saxony where the Lange story began.
Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a Dresden-based clock and watchmaker, moved to Glashütte and established his own Manufactory. His move to the town was financially incentivised as the region had suffered years of economic hardship. Indeed, the support he received was made on the understanding that Ferdinand Adolph Lange employ 15 apprentices.
Despite trade blockades, conflicts and various political upheavals over the years, Glashütte has survived and is now widely regarded as the epicentre of German watchmaking and a byword for excellence.
The inaugural collection (1994)
The inaugural A. Lange & Söhne collection was unveiled in 1994. Comprising four models, the Saxonia, the Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’, the Arkade and the Lange 1, these initial references provided a foretaste of what was to come; a horological renaissance and a re-emergence of German Haute Horlogerie.
Save for the Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’, these early watches were endowed with a large date display. Unlike a conventional date indication employing one disc, marked with 31 values, a large date display employs two discs. With this latter configuration, one disc displays the tens and the second disc, the units. Unquestionably more complex, the two disc performance imparts meaning in a widescreen format, augmenting readability.
While all four inaugural creations were beautiful, in my opinion, the Lange 1 was the belle of the ball. The off-centre hour and minutes display, the small seconds indication at 5 o’clock, the arcing power-reserve hugging the right edge of the dial and twin apertures in the northeasterly region of the display proved an elegant arrangement. I was not alone in my opinion and the watch has since become an iconic model, beloved by legions of watch aficionados.
Inspired by the famous Five-Minute Clock in the Dresden Semper Opera, the framed numerals found on the Lange 1 have become synonymous with the German marque. Later, with the release of the Zeitwerk in 2009, A. Lange & Söhne returned to the idea of using generously proportioned numbers.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk seit 2009
While the styling of the Zeitwerk referenced the aforementioned Five-Minute Clock, the timepiece looked fresh-faced and avant-garde when it burst onto the watch scene in 2009. The large numerals proved effortlessly legible. However, the apparent simplicity of the display belied the extraordinary complexity within the case.
Unlike the Lange 1, with its two discs (tens and units), the Zeitwerk employs three discs, one for the hours and two for the minutes (tens and units). Moreover, whereas a date change usually occurs once per day, the Zeitwerk’s discs jump many times over a 24-hour period.
Effectively, a ‘mechanical digital watch’, the jumping values depicted on the dial require a pulse of energy in order to advance. This form of instantaneous changing sequence consumes more energy than conventional moving hands due to their additional mass. Moreover, the jumping discs have to accelerate and brake in quick succession in order to deliver the desired appearance, again consuming additional energy. This thirst for energy not only depletes the power reserve quickly, it can also cause the amplitude of the balance to fluctuate wildly, a problem that is accentuated at the top of each hour when all three discs move in union.
The German company addressed the matter of rate stability by equipping the Zeitwerk with a constant-force escapement or, to be precise, a remontoir d’egalite. This mechanism involves using a loosely tensioned spring (when compared to the mainspring). The remontoir spring draws power from the gear train and then releases it in a controlled pulse. The system ensures that the energy supplied to the escapement remains uniform irrespective of whether the hour and minute hands are in motion or stationary.
Furthermore, with the release of its second-generation Zeitwerk, equipped with the calibre L043.6 (see later), Lange has doubled the power reserve. This was achieved by placing two mainsprings within one barrel, a patented feature that ensures the movement will run autonomously for 72 hours.
Zeitwerk (2022)
Evolution or revolution? It’s an interesting question when discussing the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. The answer is ‘both’. When released in 2009, the dial design and mechanical ingenuity were undoubtedly revolutionary. However, since its release, the brand has not sat back and rested on its laurels. On the contrary, while it has retained the original Zeitwerk’s facial features, Lange has subtly evolved the composition in the pursuit of progress. Apparently, company founder, Walter Lange repeatedly urged his employees ‘to never stand still’. It is a philosophy that still pervades the organisation and has led to an array of ingenious ideas, patented know-how and subtle improvements.
In October 2022, Lange unveiled ‘the second generation of the digital watch with a mechanical heart’. Offered in two variants, pink gold and platinum, the technical tour de force features seven patents relating to its eye-catching jumping numeral performance.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk dial
The selected case material determines the dominant dial colour. The pink gold model features a solid silver dial presented in black, while the platinum option comes with a rhodié-coloured dialscape.
At the centre of the display, a ‘time bridge’, formed of German silver frames the hour and minute indications. It is an intrinsic part of the movement and includes a jewelled bearing, positioned adjacent the minutes discs. Interestingly, Lange chose to use a colourless precious stone instead of the customary ruby bearing, a decision that contributes to the harmonious appearance of the dial layout.
The hour disc measures 30mm in diameter, while the ‘tens-minute’ and ‘units-minute’ discs are 19.0 mm and 12.7 mm, respectively. When viewed on the wrist, each disc appears to sit at the same level, however, closer examination reveals the units-minute disc is positioned 0.2mm lower than its neighbour. It is remarkable that such complexity is housed within a watch measuring 41.9mm in diameter and with a thickness of 12.2mm.
Measuring 2.9 mm x 2.3 mm, each numeral indicates the prevailing time free of ambiguity and with a notable degree of style. A snailed small seconds display resides beneath the time bridge and is endowed with a railway track, aiding readability. A power-reserve indicator, located above the time bridge, succinctly informs the wearer of the energy available within the barrel and also contributes to the Zeitwerk’s harmonious aesthetic.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk case
Both the pink gold and platinum cases unite finely brushed and polished surfaces to deliver tasteful contrast. Each reference is presented on a colour-coordinating hand-stitched alligator strap paired with a metal pin buckle, matching the chosen case material.
The crown at 2 o’clock, tucked away to avoid chafing the wrist, winds the two mainsprings and adjusts the hour and minute indications. However, the Zeitwerk also includes a pushpiece at 4 o’clock allowing the wearer to advance the hour disc independently, a useful function for frequent flyers arriving at a destination with a different timezone. The brand’s engineering prowess is manifest throughout. For example, the pusher at 4 o’clock is ‘an inverted type’, meaning the hour disc advances when the pusher is released, not when it is pressed.
To facilitate the rapid advancement of the hour disc, the German firm employs a patented vertical clutch which uncouples the hour disc from the jumping hour mechanism each time the pusher is pressed.
A pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the beautifully appointed hand-wound movement within.
A. Lange & Söhne Calibre L043.6
With the advent of the second generation Zeitwerk, the luxury marque revisited the Calibre L043.1 employed on the inaugural model and made a number of improvements. As stated earlier, these changes included using two mainsprings instead of one. There are numerous additional refinements to be found on this movement which will undoubtedly elicit a smile on the face of most pernickety purist. I will explore these details hereafter.
Comprising 451 components, the hand-wound movement is an elaborate collection of infinitesimally small parts, each crafted free of compromise. Needless to say it takes a long time to assemble a movement of such complexity. With this in mind, it may come as a surprise to learn the movement is assembled twice. The rationale is simple, with components conversing with their counterparts, where tolerances are minute, Lange’s expert watchmakers always ensure that components amicably interact with one another.
After the movement has been assembled for the first time, it is then disassembled, cleaned and, in some instances, additional decorations are applied. Moreover, some supplementary polishing also takes place. Regular screws are replaced with thermally-blued screws (see later) and numerous oils, of various viscosities, are applied prior to reassembly.
German silver
German silver is a copper alloy, sometimes termed ‘nickel silver’ or ‘Maillechort’, and is composed of copper, nickel and zinc. The alloy is expensive. Moreover, when working with German silver, the watchmaker must exercise extreme care as a wayward finger, or smudge of grease will necessitate in the part having to be removed and extensively cleaned. Nevertheless, German silver does offer several notable benefits, including impressive strength and the fact that the surfaces do not require plating. In fact, German silver is less susceptible to corrosion, forming a protective oxide layer when exposed to oxygen. Many Lange devotees describe this as ‘patination’ and enthuse about the surface acquiring a rich tone over time.
Three-quarter plate
Typical of watches from Saxony, the Calibre L043.3 features a three-quarter plate. This approach is said to deliver a more stable means of construction when contrasted with using numerous individual bridges.
Gold chatons
Two screwed gold chatons are a delightful nod to watchmaking tradition. When Ferdinand Adolph Lange and his contemporaries in England, France and Switzerland were diligently working at the bench, real jewels were used as bearings.
Back in the day, when using traditional methods to drill a hole in a mainplate, there were occasions when the resultant hole was a smidgen too small. Forcing the expensive jewel into the hole would then cause it to break. However, by lining the hole with gold, the soft precious metal would mould around the jewel, eradicating the issue. Today, holes can be drilled very precisely using CNC machines and synthetic jewels, uniform in size and composition, surmount such historical problems. However, the German Manufactory continues to make movements featuring screwed gold chatons, respecting horological heritage and sating the desires of purists and traditionalists, alike.
Thermally blued screws
The silvery-tones of the Calibre L043.3 are punctuated with brass wheels, rubies and thermally blued screws. To endow the screws with a cornflower blue tint, they must first be prepared. This entails cleaning and polishing the screws, ensuring the slots are crisp and beautifully defined. Thereafter, they are placed in a special pan, upon a bed of brass filings. The pan is heated to a high temperature, circa 290°C, for a brief period until the desired shade evolves. The temperature and period will determine the precise shade. Once the bluing process is complete, the appearance of the screws should be uniform and free of imperfections.
Thermally bluing screws requires a degree of expertise, however, the process enhances corrosion resistance, while adding to their aesthetic charm. Some cheaper watches simulate the bluing process chemically, however, these lack the lustre of the genuine article.
Finishing
Finishing is typically found on the finest expressions of Haute Horlogerie and A. Lange & Söhne is unquestionably one of the finest exponents of this painstaking craft. There are several reasons for finishing a movement, including eliminating traces of machining, enhancing corrosion resistance, removing burrs which could potentially foul moving parts and, of course, enhancing the appearance of components.
Close examination of the numerous contours and facets of the Calibre L043.3 reveals a plethora of decoration techniques, all of which are designed to sate the desires of the most discerning souls. The winding wheels sport a solarised finish, the mainplate is enlivened with a sea of overlapping circles termed ‘perlage’ and numerous parts are grained. The three-quarter plate is also adorned with a series of parallel lines known as ‘Glashütte ribbing’. But undoubtedly, the ultimate demonstration of the finisseurs’ skills is manifest with several gleaming pockets of ‘mirror polishing’, sometimes termed ‘black polishing’.
Black polishing involves placing a component on a ‘tin plate’, smeared with diamantine paste. The finisseur will move the part over the plate in a figure-of-eight motion, endeavouring to exploit the flatness of the part in order to achieve a resplendent gleam. Once successfully polished, the component will appear to transition from white to black depending on the position it is held. This finishing technique is difficult to perform, incredibly time-consuming and is the preserve of the finest exemplars of horology. Both the escape-wheel cock and the whiplash spring found on the Calibre L043.3 are enriched with this highly desirable finish.
Hand engraving
The craftspeople at the brand’s Manufactory are known for their watchmaking prowess and fastidious attention to finishing. Furthermore, the company is also known for hand-engraving components such as the balance cock and escape wheel cock.
Mounted in wax, the engraver uses a burin to create a pattern of swirling lines or scrolls. At Lange, the appeal of this artisanal technique is heightened further as each engraver imparts his/her own unique signature decoration, a detail which differentiates an individual’s work from that of their colleagues. This small detail serves to remind the wearer that each Lange timepiece is not mass-produced but a product of time-served skill.
Escapement and regulating organ
Most mechanical watches are equipped with an index or raquette. This features two curb pins, straddling the hairspring. The hairspring is connected at one end to the balance staff using a collet and the other end to the stud. By moving the raquette towards or away from the stud, the watchmaker is able to alter the effective length of the hairspring, making the movement run faster or slower.
The Calibre L043.3 is equipped with a free sprung balance. In this instance, the effective length of the hairspring is fixed and the rate is altered by adjusting inertia weights, usually affixed to the rim of the balance wheel. The regulation of the balance is less susceptible to changes caused by shocks and the rate can be set more precisely. It takes much longer to regulate a free sprung balance, but, as you have no doubt determined by now, Lange is not in the habit of clock watching.
Another detail on this particular balance is that Lange has chosen to position the inertia weights in-board rather than on the rim of the balance wheel. By adopting this approach there is less air perturbation, again heightening precision.
Traditionally, a whiplash spring was used to regulate the rate, however, as I have already stated the rate is adjusted by adjusting inertia weights. In this instance, the whiplash system is used to adjust the symmetry of the anchor, ameliorating any beat error. Typical of the innovative German firm, the know-how underpinning the system is patented.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk – closing remarks
As a parent of two children, I never talk about favourites. Likewise, as someone who makes a living from writing about watches, I try to remain impartial and objective at all times. Nevertheless, I must confess, ever since the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk was first unveiled in 2009, I’ve always been a fan.
It is a steely-hearted soul who does not coo over the three discs, positioned centre stage, marching in sequence and flicking from one value to the next within the blink of an eye. Likewise, it’s hard to look at the Calibre L043.3 without thinking about the inordinate amount of hours spent crafting each component.
Perfection is an unattainable goal, located somewhere just beyond the horizon. Throughout history, the elusive destination has troubled the most creative and intelligent minds and yet undeterred they continue to head in its direction. Despite the excellence of the inaugural version, the second generation model Zeitwerk has moved nearer to perfection, a place where Walter Lange continuously dreamed of reaching when he urged his staff to ‘never stand still’.
Further reading
https://www.alange-soehne.com/
Technical specification
- Model: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
- Reference: 142.031 (in 18-carat pink gold)
- Reference: 142.025 (in 950 platinum)
- Case: diameter 41.9mm, height 12.2 mm, sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: time indicated in hours and minutes with jumping numerals, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds, power-reserve indicator
- Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L043.6, hand-wound movement, frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), contains 61 jewels, power reserve 72 hours (when fully wound), 451 components
- Strap: hand-stitched alligator leather with pin buckle (18-carat pink gold is presented on a black leather strap with 18-carat pink gold pin buckle / 950 platinum is presented on a dark brown leather strap with a 950 platinum pin buckle)
- Price on application
- Boutique exclusive