Angelus Chronodate Gold and Chronodate Titanium Watch Review
The Angelus Chronodate made its debut at Watches and Wonders 2022 with three limited edition models (25 examples of each variant). This year at Watches & Wonders 2023, Angelus returns with three new versions of the Chronodate. While these latest models share much in common with their siblings of 2022, they embrace new colourways, respecting the exclusivity of the inaugural limited-edition references. Angus Davies looks at the history of Angelus, the legendary Chronodate of 1942 and these newest references, available in either 18-carat red gold or Grade 5 titanium.
Angelus, founded in 1891
The esteemed Maison, Angelus, was founded in 1891 in Le Locle, just 9km from its present-day home in the neighbouring city of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Two brothers, Albert and Gustav Stolz established the company. Their brother Charles would later join the firm in 1898.
It was not long before Angelus came to international prominence. For example, in 1902, the company was awarded a gold medal at the International Exposition in Paris. It also received the Médaille de Vermeil at the International Exposition in Lille.
Blind war veterans’ watch
Angelus was a highly innovative company, patenting various ingenious mechanisms. In particular, it became known for chronographs and repeaters. The company even made repeater timepieces without the customary crystal above the dial. These watches were designed for blind war veterans who were able to determine the time by touching the hands. The company also went on to make table and travel alarm clocks.
Perhaps one of the most significant milestones in the company’s history was in 1925 when the firm released its first in-house monopusher chronograph equipped with the SF15 14’’’ (32,8mm) calibre. It was also a pioneer in the making of double push-piece chronographs such as the SF 210 and the famous SF 215 equipping Chronodato and the Panerai Radiomir Mare Nostrum prototype, a design that remains popular today.
Angelus 8-day calibres
The Manufacture not only made movements for its own timepieces but was also a trusted supplier to other companies such as Tiffany and, most notably Panerai. In both cases, Angelus provided these firms with its famous 8-day calibres.
The Chronodate (1942)
In 1942, Angelus released the world’s first serially-produced full calendar chronograph, the aptly named Chronodate. The following year, the model was renamed the Chronodato, a name that is well known among brand devotees and chronograph aficionados. The model featured a two-counter layout, two apertures displaying the day and month and a pointer date hugging the edge of the dial. This model proved a huge commercial success for the brand and was its bestselling model during the 20th century.
A rich history (1943 – the late 1970s)
During the 1940s, Angelus released a plethora of different models. These included handsome bi-compax chronographs, including a military issue model for the Hungarian air force.
In 1948, Angelus released the Chrono-Datoluxe. This model eschewed the pointer date in favour of an aperture. It also featured an adjacent window showing the day and displayed the moon phase. The brand also made pure calendar models. Consistent with the period, the cases of these models featured glorious cow horn lugs which remain eminently stylish despite the passage of time.
During this era, the Maison also made various alarm watches and famously released an automatic repeater wristwatch in 1958, the charmingly named ‘Tinkler’. This groundbreaking model was the first automatic repeater wristwatch and the first water-resistant repeater wristwatch. In 1960, the company released a monopusher chronograph featuring a pulsometer scale.
A defining characteristic of Angelus was that it never ceased innovating. In the late 1960s, it launched an electric wristwatch fitted with a Landeron 4750, the first Swiss calibre of this type. In 1976, the Swiss marque unveiled a striking watch, developed in collaboration with Dubois Dépraz, which featured a 5-minute repeater.
However, like many companies, Angelus was not immune from the adverse trading conditions brought about in the 1970s and early 80s, the so-called ‘quartz crisis’. The advent of cheap quartz movements saw many brands disappear from view. The precise date when Angelus ceased producing watches remains unknown. Thankfully, in 2011, Manufacture La Joux-Perret acquired the company and the Angelus name returned to the watchsphere.
Manufacture La Joux-Perret
The Angelus U10 was the first timepiece (2015) produced under the aegis of Manufacture La Joux-Perret. Endowed with a flying tourbillon, this model was also the first of several watches equipped with the über-desirable, gravity-defying mechanism.
Angelus Chronodate (2022)
Last year (2022), the Swiss marque celebrated the legacy of its iconic model of 1942, the Chronodate, by releasing three limited-edition models (25 examples of each variant). The Chronodate Red Gold paired an 18-carat red gold case with a blue dial, while the remaining models were housed in Grade 5 titanium and offered in a choice of blue or white dials. These models proved very popular with all examples quickly being sold.
Angelus Chronodate (2023)
This year at Watches & Wonders 2023, Angelus returns with three new versions of the Chronodate. While these models share much in common with their siblings of 2022, they embrace new colourways, thereby respecting the exclusivity of the inaugural limited-edition references of 2022.
The Angelus Red Gold is housed in a 42.5 mm case made from 18-carat 5N red gold and is presented with a velvet black dial, while the other two versions are encased in Grade 5 titanium. These latter models are available with either a velvet black display or bewitching fern green dial.
Respecting the past, but unquestionably modern
Consistent with the historic Angelus Chronodato of 1942, as well as the Chrono-Datoluxe of 1948, this latest model encompasses a two-counter layout, imbuing the dial with an agreeable dose of symmetry. The counters are snailed and feature golden accents, save for the 30-minute chronograph register positioned at 3 o’clock which has an ebullient red hand. The subdial at 9 o’clock indicates the running seconds.
The hour and minute hands are syringe-style, the date is indicated with a triangular-tipped hand and the plump hour markers pay a respectful nod to the past. However, while the latest Chronodate pays tribute to its antecedent from 1942, it is unquestionably contemporary. For instance, the hands and hour markers are lined with modern-day Super-LumiNova.
Likewise, the case dimensions (42.5 mm diameter and 14.25 mm thick) are modern, designed to appeal to present-day tastes. The flanks of the case are intricately formed and include openworked lugs. Angelus’s distinctive three-point design screws secure the black rubber strap to the case in steadfast union. Alternatively, the titanium model is also available on a matching metal bracelet.
Angelus has combined the dominant case material with carbon composite, employing the material for the bezel ring and push-pieces. The brand has charmingly labelled the push-pieces in red text, ‘Start’, ‘Stop’ and ‘Reset’ as appropriate.
Irrespective of the case material selected, satin-finished surfaces abound, albeit Angelus has enriched the aesthetic appearance of each model with polished chamfers. These slivers of brilliance tastefully enliven each ensemble.
A box sapphire crystal, positioned above the dial, pays tribute to the aforementioned 1942 model, allowing light to flood the dial plane and thereby augmenting readability. To the rear of the watch, a further pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the self-winding movement, the A-500 calibre.
Grade 5 titanium
As stated earlier, as well as the red gold option, Angelus offers two variants in titanium. In this instance, the Swiss marque has selected Grade 5 titanium for the case. Unlike cheaper Grade 2 titanium, Grade 5 is an alloy that proffers superior strength. Furthermore, Grade 5 titanium can be polished to a brilliant gleam, evident with the aforementioned polished chamfers.
Grade 5 titanium is a lightweight metal that is corrosion-resistant, strong and hypoallergenic. Making a watch case from this material is more challenging than steel, gold or Grade 2 titanium due to its extraordinary hardness. Indeed, the production time needed to mill a case in this alloy and the associated production costs are significant. However, the resultant case and the wearer benefits the alloy confers justifies the protracted creation and expense.
Angelus A-500 calibre
As previously mentioned, the Angelus Chronodate is equipped with the automatic A-500 calibre. The fully integrated movement features a column wheel and horizontal coupling. This traditional configuration will no doubt elicit nods of approval among watch aficionados. Furthermore, it has allowed Angelus to produce a comparatively slim movement measuring 7.90 mm in height.
Presented in a stealthy shade of black, the column-wheel can be viewed from rear of the watch. Resembling a fluted cylinder, the column-wheel controls the start, stop and reset to zero functions. Horological voyeurs are indulged with the sight of levers dropping into the space between the flutes or resting on the upper surface of the column-wheel.
The appearance of the A-500 calibre is best described as ‘neoteric’. The mainplate is sandblasted and NAC-treated. The bridges are microblasted, NAC-treated and feature satin-finished edges, while the wheels are circular gained and rhodium plated. Depending on the case material selected, the oscillating weight is either tungsten or tungsten with 18-carat red gold. Despite the movement having a contemporary appearance, it is finely finished and is an exemplar of Swiss craftsmanship.
Closing remarks
When Manufacture La Joux-Perret acquired Angelus in 2011, its new owner had to be respectful of the company’s heritage. However, the new owners also had to remember that Angelus was always synonymous with innovation. It was and remains a difficult balance to achieve, simultaneously respecting the patrimony while striving for progress.
Since the U 10 was unveiled in 2015, the Swiss marque has wholeheartedly embraced the notion of blue-sky thinking, crafting highly original timepieces. The initial models were endowed with flying tourbillons and have whet the appetite of many discerning horophiles.
However, Angelus has not stuck doggedly to just making tourbillons. In 2022, the firm released the Chronodate, a fresh-faced chronograph imbued with a judicious soupçon of nostalgia. This year, the Manufacture has released three new Chronodate models, each inspired by the 1942 reference, while at the same time exhibiting a modern mien. Throughout the composition of each model, the brand has distilled stylistic details of yesteryear and juxtaposed them with contemporary elements. The resultant design proves wonderfully cohesive.
With an impressive back catalogue for inspiration, I can’t help but wonder whether Angelus will further indulge horophiles with contemporary renditions of calendar timepieces and repeater watches in the coming years.
Further reading
https://www.angelus-watches.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium
- Reference: 0CDZE.B01A.K009B (red gold)
- Reference: 0CDZF.B02A.K009B (titanium & black with rubber strap)
- Reference: 0CDZF.F01A.K009B (titanium & green with rubber strap)
- Reference: 0CDZF.B02A.M009T (titanium & black with titanium bracelet)
- Reference: 0CDZF.F01A.M009T (titanium & green with titanium bracelet)
- Case: 18-carat red gold (5N) or titanium, diameter 42.5 mm, height 14.25 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystals to the front and back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, peripheral date
- Movement: Calibre A-500, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), contains 26 jewels, power reserve 60 hours
- Strap: black rubber strap.
- Clasp – red gold model: titanium blades and 18-carat red gold (5N) cap
- Clasp – titanium models: titanium blades and cap
- Price: Red Gold – CHF 42,900 incl. VAT (RRP as of 17.6.2022)
- Price: Titanium with a rubber strap – CHF 22,900 incl. VAT (RRP as of 17.6.2022)
- Price: Titanium with a titanium bracelet – CHF 24,700 incl. VAT (RRP as of 17.6.2022)