Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium Watch Review
The famous Chronodate name returns with the release of the new Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium. Available in three variants, each limited to 25 pieces, the bicompax automatic chronograph features a 42.5 mm case. Meehna Goldsmith appraises this latest creation from La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Angelus Chronodate (1942)
Marking the 80th anniversary of the Chronodate, first introduced in 1942, Angelus presents a new bicompax chronograph, available in three variants, each limited to 25 pieces. Would-be wearers can choose from the Chronodate Red Gold or select one of two versions of the Chronodate Titanium. For these new creations, Angelus found inspiration in the annals while also incorporating the openworked aesthetics of its more recent timepieces.
Angelus chronographs
Angelus has a strong history of making two-pusher chronographs, releasing its first example in 1935. Seven years later, in 1942, the brand debuted the world’s first series chronograph with a triple calendar, initially named the Chronodate, but then renamed Chronodato the following year (1943). The date was indicated with a central hand circling a peripheral chapter ring, while the day and month were displayed in windows at 6 and 12 o’clock, respectively.
Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium – the modern-day watch (2022)
The latest incarnations of the Chronodate feature a modular, six-piece 42.5 mm case that combines carbon composite with red gold or titanium, depending upon the model. To shield the watch from shocks, the movement nestles within a ring of carbon composite, a material known for its rigidity and lightness. The push pieces and the ring positioned between the case middle and bezel are also composed of this matte black material. In addition, the 12-notched bezel in titanium or red gold features a carbon composite ring underneath.
With just one look, it’s clear the Chronodate is serious about timing. While the original model included day and date displays, the modern-day descendants dispense with such indications ensuring everything is clean and purposeful. The pushpieces are labelled, indicating their function and incorporate a pop of red lacquer. This vibrant colour is also repeated with the hands of the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock as well as the openworked arrow for the date. Notice that the prominent crown includes a band of rubber at its centre for ease of adjustment.
From the 1940s through to the 1960s, Angelus was known for chronographs, modest in diameter yet with large and legible counters. That same commitment to legibility is much in evidence with the structured, three-dimensional dials on this new Chronodate. To provide depth as well as clarity, the counters and applied Arabic numerals are positioned atop matte dials resembling frosted glass. Lume-filled syringe-type hour and minute hands circle the lume-filled hour markers to deliver readability in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.
Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium – Calibre A-500
On view through the sapphire caseback, the Swiss firm has equipped the Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium with its latest Calibre A-500. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and the movement is equipped with 26 jewels. Angelus has paired a column wheel with a horizontal coupling. This traditional arrangement allows the wearer to witness the meshing of the chronograph mechanism. Furthermore, this arrangement helps mitigate the overall thickness of the movement. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the movement will run autonomously for 60 hours.
In a nod to history, the oscillating weight encompasses a historic design and is composed of either tungsten or tungsten and gold, depending on the case material selected. Befitting the aesthetic, the finishing on the movement is contemporary. The inventory of finishes includes sandblasted and microbead blasted NAC treated plates and bridges while the wheels are circular-grained and rhodium-plated.
Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium – closing thoughts
If you need a good reference for Angelus movements, look no further than Panerai. In 1955, the Italian brand, now Italian-Swiss, chose to equip its watches for the Royal Italian Navy with the robust Angelus 8-day calibre SF240. You can identify that calibre by the small seconds at 9 o’clock, which is now a defining design element of modern-day Panerai watches.
Reaching into its history books, Angelus revives the Chronodate in a modern iteration that gives a hat tip to the original while also highlighting the technical prowess and stylistic codes of the modern-day brand. With these new models, Angelus has marked down another (chrono) date that’s sure to be remembered.
Further reading
https://www.angelus-watches.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Angelus Chronodate Red Gold & Chronodate Titanium
- Reference: 0CDZE.U02A.K009H (red gold); 0CDZF.U01A.K009H (titanium & blue); 0CDYF.W01A.K009B (titanium & white)
- Case: Red gold or titanium; diameter 42.5 mm; height 14.25 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystals to the front and back
- Functions: Hours; minutes; bicompax chronograph; peripheral date
- Movement: Calibre A-500; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); contains 26 jewels; power reserve 60 hours
- Strap: Colour co-ordinated rubber strap a folding, matching the case
- Price: Red Gold – CHF 42,900 incl. VAT (RRP as of 17.6.2022)
- Price: Titanium – CHF 22,900 incl. VAT (RRP as of 17.6.2022)
- Limited Edition: 25 pieces for each model