Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II Watch Review
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II comes hot on the heels of the Time Eater, released earlier this year. This latter watch has attracted much attention on the auction scene and is currently nominated for the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) ‘Petite Aiguille’ prize. Angus Davies looks at the new Time Eater II and provides an insight into the world of Louis Erard and Manuel Emch, the brand’s Artistic Director and Strategist.
The typical commercial belief system
There are two things you learn as you get older. Firstly, ‘creativity’ and ‘affordability’ are mutually exclusive. The probability of being served the most imaginative dishes in a 3-star restaurant and still having change from a ‘tenner’ is doubtful. Secondly, ‘mediocrity’ and ‘playing it safe’ are invariably the norm. These latter ideas are driven by mass-production, where no object can be thought-provoking or contentious. Sadly, this commercial belief system has blighted many aspects of life.
Louis Erard – founded in 1929
Founded in 1929, Louis Erard has made quality watches; however, in 2019, Manuel Emch joined the firm as Artistic Director and Strategist before later joining the firm’s board. Emch is an industry veteran and an extraordinary visionary. Shortly after his arrival, he embarked on a new strategy, collaborating with partners from a variety of fields, including external artisans, designers and watchmakers. The philosophy was simple, make exciting watches, brimming with inventiveness and offer them at remarkably keen prices.
Emch also democratised hitherto expensive materials and techniques. The brand began to offer timepieces featuring stones such as malachite and lapis lazuli. Moreover, grand feu enamelling, marqueterie and hand-guilloché dials, all highly desirable expressions of métiers d’art, were also on Emch’s menu of delights. However, where Louis Erard has repeatedly differentiated itself from the crowd is by making these seductive treats accessible to those individuals lacking the financial means of an oligarch.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II – an egalitarian mindset
On the face of it, Louis Erard’s egalitarian mindset sounds very laudable, but is it underpinned by commercial prudence? Most definitely. Allow me to elaborate.
While the Swiss marque releases several new models each year, they often share components in common, such as cases, crowns and movements. This approach confers economies of scale but at the same time, the dial and hands deliver a sizeable dose of originality.
A problem afflicting some brands is that they fixate too much on volumes and market share without giving due consideration to managing supply and demand. Many watch retailers hold large stocks of unsold products, tying up capital. The Louis Erard approach is to produce limited numbers of watches, knowing that demand will outstrip supply. This mitigates the retailers’ need to borrow funds. Moreover, it turns products into cash quickly, a scenario that serves Louis Erard and its retailers very well.
Lastly, there is another reason why Louis Erard watches represent incredible value for money; the company is happy to work on smaller margins.
Louis Erard – supply and demand
The result of this intelligent product/price strategy is that models are soon snapped up. This has led to a pre-owned scene where sought-after models, sometimes unworn and still in their original packaging, swap hands for prices often over list.
This phenomenon was recently seen with a two-piece set containing the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater. Comprising a 42 mm watch with green accents and a 39 mm version endowed with purple tones, the pairing recently sold at auction for CHF 20,000, a significant sum for the scary duo.
No doubt buoyed by this salesroom success and after being nominated for the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) ‘Petite Aiguille’ prize for its 42 mm variant of the Time Eater, Louis Erard has once again chosen to collaborate with Konstantin Chaykin, the highly-acclaimed independent watchmaker.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II – the sequel
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II, as with its antecedent, is offered in two variants, a 42 mm model housed in polished steel and a 39 mm reference presented in a sandblasted stainless steel case dressed in black PVD.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II – a tad more scary
Several of the beloved details found on the Time Eater have been retained, albeit with a slightly menacing twist. The cyclops hour display in the upper dial region, inspired by the Slavic Likho legend, features a bloodshot eye and is intended to look malevolent. A red serpentine hand points to crisp white dots encircling the dial, indicating the minutes. At the base of the dial, a ‘saw-mouth’ indicates the running seconds.
The central area of the dial shares the same sunray wave pattern as its predecessor; however, it’s now executed in either anthracite or black, depending on the case size. Moreover, the hints of green and purple found on the first-generation Time Eater have been supplanted with blood-red notes, reinforcing the model’s scary character.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II – scarcity assured
Upholding Louis Erard tradition, each version of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II is limited to 178 pieces each. In addition, the Maison offers two alternative ownership propositions. Firstly, the Diptyque, a set of 28 pieces all of which feature both the 42 mm and 38 mm versions of the Time Eater II. Secondly, the Quadriptyque, a special box set, limited to just 8 pieces, that contains both versions of the Time Eater and both versions of the Time Eater II. This latter option is priced at CHF 15,900, which, based on recent auction activity, seems remarkably good value.
Further reading
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater II – technical specifications
- Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Dusk to Dawn
- Ref. 85237AA89
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42 mm, height 12.25 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Sellita SW266-1 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 31 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: black toad leather with red attachment points, red rabbit leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to changed quickly
- Price: CHF 4,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 19.5.2023)
- Limited Edition: 178 pieces
- Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Dusk to Dawn
- Ref. 85248NN88
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39 mm, height 12.82 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Sellita SW266-1 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: black toad leather with red attachment points, red rabbit leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to changed quickly
- Price: CHF 4,000 (RRP as of 19.9.2023)
- Limited Edition: 178 pieces
- Model: Le Diptyque Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
- Ref. 22222AA89.DIPTYQUE
- Special box set, 28 pieces
- Price: CHF 7,900 excluding taxes (RRP as of 19.9.2023)
- Model: Le Quadriptyque Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
- Ref. 44444AA88.QUADRIPTYQUE
- Special box set, 8 pieces
- Price: CHF 15,900 excluding taxes (RRP as of 19.9.2023)
