Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel
The Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel is the latest iteration of the Swiss brand’s cloud-themed skeleton watch. The first version of the Nebula appeared in 2016, however, in its latest guise, the Nebula looks very different from its forebears. Angus Davies explains why the Nebula is his favourite version to date, courtesy of its masterful use of colour.
Arnold & Son, La Chaux-de-Fonds
Arnold & Son is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city widely regarded as the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking. The Maison is known for creating innovative, high-end timepieces, often inspired by the work of John Arnold (1736-1799) and his son, John Roger Arnold (1769-1843).
John Arnold & John Roger Arnold
John Arnold held patents for a detent escapement, a bimetallic balance and a helical spring. He is also associated with marine chronometers and received several grants from the British Board of Longitude. John Roger Arnold studied under Abraham-Louis Breguet and followed in his father’s footsteps, producing chronometers. In 1820, he was awarded a patent for his keyless winding system.
Arnold & Son – the modern-day brand
The name ‘Arnold’ returned to the watch sphere in 1995 with the launch of the modern-day Arnold & Son brand. Perhaps most notably of all, the company became a fully-fledged Manufacture in 2010, producing its own in-house movements. In 2012, the Japanese firm, Citizen Watch, acquired Arnold & Son. Since becoming a Manufacture, the Swiss marque has been prolific, creating numerous in-house movements.
The inaugural Arnold & Son Nebula (2016)
In 2016, Arnold & Son released the inaugural version of its model, the ‘Nebula’. This was named after the Latin word for ‘cloud’, a term used to describe a giant cloud of dust and gas in space. The name was very apt, conveying the way seven triangular bridges emanate from the periphery of the dial towards its centre.
I can recall the model being launched and, at the time, waxing lyrical about its skeletonised movement and its three-dimensional design. When it was first released, the Nebula was housed in a 41.5mm case and offered in a choice of red gold or stainless steel.
Arnold & Son Nebula Lady (2018)
While the first version of the Nebula was well received, Arnold & Son chose not to rest on its laurels. In fact, just two years after the initial model, the luxury firm released the Nebula Lady. Once again, the model featured a 41.5mm case (red gold). However, the new model featured facetted hour and minute hands which were coated in black DLC. It also had solid gold triangular bridges, a silver-toned chapter ring and a diamond set bezel. It was undoubtedly a paragon of glamorous horology.
Arnold & Son Nebula 38 (2020)
For any business to be successful, it must pay close attention to the retail market. In recent times, an increasing number of horophiles have shown a preference for modest proportions, often favouring a sub-40mm case. Back in 2020, Arnold & Son released the Nebula 38 Steel. As its name implies, it was housed in a 38mm stainless steel case. This model was offered at a very keen price, democratising Nebula ownership. However, despite its comparative affordability, the Nebula 38 Steel showed no signs of penny-pinching.
Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel (2022)
Earlier this year, at Watches & Wonders 2022, the Manufacture unveiled a beautiful new timepiece, the Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel. I must confess, when I first saw this model, I didn’t realise it was based on the Nebula of 2016. Quite simply, the model looks very different.
Arnold & Son has suffused the main plate and chapter ring with a bewitching shade of blue PVD. The hue is juxtaposed with rhodium-plated appliqués and palladium-treated bridges (see later).
By dressing various parts in blue, the silver-toned components come to the fore, accentuating their refined finishes as well as showcasing the balance wheel in motion.
Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel – A&S5201 calibre
Earlier versions of the Nebula featured the A&S5101 calibre, however, at the heart of the new Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel is a brand new hand-wound movement, the A&S5201 calibre. Beyond applying a contemporary blue PVD treatment to the movement, the Swiss marque has expended much effort pairing the colour of the gear train with the small seconds track. In addition to its blue complexion, the main plate is also decorated with’Rayons de la Gloire’ guilloché.
Further niceties include the palladium treated bridges which incorporate both polished angles and satin-brushed surfaces. Likewise, the wheels are circular-grained and bevelled, while the twin barrels are blue on their upper surface and silver-toned and sunray brushed on their reverse. Even the screws are bevelled with mirror-polished heads.
While the new Nebula 41.5 Steel is keenly priced, the finish is excellent and worthy of the description ‘Haute Horlogerie’.
The movement has a prodigious power reserve of 90 hours and is equipped with a free-sprung balance, incorporating four C-shaped masselottes positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel.
Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel – rubber strap or steel bracelet
Hitherto, Nebula ownership has meant affixing the watch to your wrist with some form of leather strap, however, with the advent of this latest model, horophiles are indulged with a choice of a rubber strap or a steel bracelet.
Described as a ‘ballistic-type rubber strap’, the blue fastening resembles textile material with its woven-look surface. With some countries/states legislating to prevent the importation of alligator and crocodile skins and an increasing number of watch buyers concerned about animal welfare, Arnold & Son’s decision seems eminently sensible.
The three-rows bracelet imbues the Nebula 41.5 Steel with a different look and may suit would-be wearers who live in humid climes. Once again, the bracelet masterfully exploits contrasting finishes, encompassing brushed and polished surfaces.
Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel – closing thoughts
With some skeleton watches, the hour and minute hands, as well as other indications, can sometimes prove difficult to see, becoming lost in a latticework backdrop. However, no such problems afflict the Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel. The two-tone ensemble wonderfully plays with contrasts, bestowing excellent legibility and proving easy on the eye.
The Swiss marque has not only delivered contrast by employing blue and silver hues, but it has also successfully juxtaposed classical and modern design elements. For instance, the case and hands exhibit a classical mien, while the blue main plate appears almost avant-garde by comparison.
The A&S5201 calibre is new, but it upholds the Maison’s reputation for peerless finishing. Indeed, despite its neoteric appearance, this is a wonderful exemplar of Haute Horlogerie. This is all the more surprising when the matter of price is considered. Starting at CHF 15,700, including taxes, this fresh-faced version of the Nebula proffers incredible value for money.
I suspect some industry commentators could label this watch as merely an ‘animation’ of an existing model, however, in my opinion, that would be unfair. The shrewd use of materials and colours, coupled with the brilliant A&S5201 calibre, make the Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel an exceptional watch and my favourite Nebula to date.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Arnold & Son Nebula 41.5 Steel
- Reference: 1NEAS.U01A.K002S (blue ballistic-type rubber strap) / 1NEAS.U02A.S134D (steel bracelet)
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 41.5 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: A&S5201 calibre; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 24 jewels; power reserve 90 hours
- Price: blue ballistic-type rubber strap – CHF 15,700 including tax (RRP as of 17.8.2022)
- Price: steel bracelet – CHF 16,900 including tax (RRP as of 17.8.2022)