Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition Watch Review
The Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition masterfully unites space-age carbon fibre with 18k yellow gold, while simultaneously upholding Haute Horlogerie traditions. The model is joined by a second reference, the Biver Automatique Yellow Gold, eschewing the black woven material, instead favouring a classical solid gold dial. Both references are equipped with the Calibre JCB.003-C, an automatic movement featuring a bi-directional 22k gold micro-rotor.
Image – Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition
Biver Carillon Tourbillon
In the world of Haute Horlogerie, the main protagonists are long established. Indeed, some Maisons have a history spanning 200 years or more. The eponymous brand JC Biver was founded in 2022 by Jean-Claude Biver and his son, Pierre. The following year, in 2023, the Maison released its inaugural model, the Carillon Tourbillon.
Image – Pierre Biver (L) and Jean-Claude Biver (R)
Comprising two high complications, a minute repeater and a tourbillon, the Carillon Tourbillon was a highly ambitious undertaking. However, Biver pushed the boundaries of watchmaking further by equipping the model with an ultra-sophisticated carillon with three gongs and three hammers, surpassing the specification of a ‘normal’ minute repeater endowed with two gongs and two hammers. The resultant sound of a carillon is more elaborate and melodious than a ‘normal’ minute repeater.
Image – Jean-Claude Biver
While few brands would dare to tackle such a formidable task for their first foray into watchmaking, Jean-Claude Biver, a veteran of the watch industry, was unquestionably up to the task. Co-founder of the brand that bears his name, his curriculum vitae makes for impressive reading. A son of Luxembourg, he has previously held a number of senior roles, leading several horological behemoths. With the prerequisite skills for success, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon threw down the gauntlet, signalling to watchmaking’s old guard that the newly formed brand was serious about crafting peerless expressions of fine watchmaking.
Image – Biver Carillon Tourbillon Titanium Sodalite
The first versions of the Biver Carillon were offered in a choice of titanium or rose gold, paired with dials formed of sodalite or silver obsidian hardstone, respectively. However, clearly wishing to showcase its artistic talents, the brand has since launched references dressed in precious stones and in some instances incorporating intricate hand-engraved depictions of Calaveras.
Image – Biver Carillon Tourbillon Rose Gold Silver Obsidian Hardstone
Biver Automatique
Following the release of the critically acclaimed Carillon Tourbillon and with expectations high among the cognoscenti, Biver faced the challenge of releasing the all-important second album. For those admirers drawn to the brand’s design language and technical virtuosity, the price of a ‘basic’ Carillon Tourbillon, somewhere north of CHF 500,000, sadly precluded acquisition. Recognising this pent-up demand, the Maison released the Biver Automatique in September 2024.
Image – Biver Automatique Platinum
Offered in a choice of platinum or 18k rose gold, the Biver Automatique embraced the notion of simplicity. Indeed, its inventory of functions included just hours, minutes and seconds. However, while technically less complicated than its older sibling, the Biver Automatique maintained the Swiss marque’s no-compromise standards.
Image – Biver Automatique Atelier Series platinum case with obsidian dial
Biver has also created a limited number of timepieces featuring stone dials. Moreover, a unique example of the Biver Automatique was created for ‘TimeForArt’, a charity auction hosted by Phillips in New York. The model was endowed with a handmade enamel dial crafted by Swiss artist Guillaume Ehinger.
Image – Biver Automatique ‘Echoes of this Moment’
Continuously demonstrating its artisanal prowess, the Swiss Maison released the Biver Automatique Japan Edition featuring a traditional handcrafted enamel dial, executed in a choice of lustrous shades of black or white.
Image – Biver Automatique Japan Edition
Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition – a lesson in contrasts
Wishing to expand its Automatique line further, Biver has now released a watch that will undoubtedly prompt discussion. This latest reference, the Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition, juxtaposes modernity with classical elements.
The dial epidermis unites carbon fibre, a space-age material widely used in motorsport, with solid 18k yellow gold. This latter noble metal evokes thoughts of yesteryear, especially the 70s, with its sun-kissed tones. By utilising avant-garde and traditional materials, Biver has exploited contrasts to comely effect, endowing this latest model with a distinctive mien.
The watch is presented on a neoteric black braided rubber strap, lined with leather and fitted with an 18k yellow gold pin buckle. The Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition is priced at CHF 89,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 11.4.2025), making it a more accessible alternative to the Carillon Tourbillon.
Biver Automatique Yellow Gold
No doubt mindful that the contrast of carbon fibre and yellow gold may not be to everyone’s taste, Biver also offers a more traditional version. Consistent with the finest exemplars of Haute Horlogerie, the dial is formed of solid 18k yellow gold and partnered with an 18k yellow gold 3N case. These latest Biver references provide a welcome alternative to the now ubiquitous 18k rose gold, favouring a paler hue, imbuing the habillage with a softer, mellow character, evoking thoughts of prized heirlooms passed from one generation to the next.
Although the personalities of the Atelier Series Carbon Edition and Yellow Gold differ, they still share many elements in common. Allow me to elaborate.
Biver Automatique dial
The dauphine-style hour and minute hands are classical and appear conventional. However, take a closer look and you will discover that each hand features four facets which have been ‘shaped and polished by hand’, granting a wonderful interaction with light. The centre seconds hand is supremely fine, features an arrow-shaped counterweight and sports a gleaming centre. In both cases, the hands on the Carbon Edition and Yellow Gold models are formed of 18k yellow gold, albeit those on the Automatique Yellow Gold are presented in an anthracite shade.
Each hour is denoted with a crisp, multi-faceted hour marker, succinctly expressing meaning. A minuterie sits beyond the hour track, fringing the dial. Eminently simple to read, it is marked with a combination of double-digit Arabic numerals and crisp strokes, all presented in relief.
The composition of each dial is delightfully nuanced with contrasting textures, facets and volumes. For example, the dial of the Yellow Gold model features a central section adorned with a vertical satin brush. This is surrounded by a circlet embellished with circular brushed decoration and then framed by the hour track that’s dressed in a vertical satin brush. This interplay of finishes toys with light and enriches the horological vista with a sumptuous aesthetic. The brand’s name is also presented in relief, restrained yet clearly legible.
Biver Automatique case
Measuring 39 mm in diameter, the 18k yellow gold case is a paragon of understatement. In a world all too often blighted by conspicuous consumption, the Automatique’s housing (both variants share the same case) is tastefully understated.
Nevertheless, looking beyond the apparent simplicity of the exterior reveals subtle details and a near-obsessive quest for perfection. The case and lugs are enriched with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, a detail that heightens production costs. Furthermore, Biver has not restricted its ambitions to simple straight flanks but endued the case with multiple curves and facets, again heightening costs. Likewise, the lugs are elaborately formed with numerous angles that dance with light, bestowing pockets of brilliance and shade.
Every surface is executed to a flawless standard, the product of protracted creation and artisanal skill. Indeed, even the crown is an object of beauty, with the co-founder’s initials presented in relief on the vertical flank.
Biver Calibre JCB.003-C
Breaking with tradition, the Biver Calibre JCB.003-C shuns the now ubiquitous Côtes de Genève, favouring a blend of grained surfaces and a distinctive decoration formed of numerous pyramidal structures. This latter finish imbues the bridges with a delightful three-dimensional appearance. On the other hand, consistent with Biver’s love for contrasts, this watch encompasses many classical forms of finishing. For example, the mainplate is adorned with perlage, the wheels are circular-grained, with hand-bevelled spokes, and the screws are chamfered and mirror-polished, while anglage abounds. But the inventory of refinements does not end there, the screws and jewels nestle in polished sinks, while the pegs, sliding stud cap and escape wheel bridge are black polished to a matchless standard.
The Biver Calibre JCB.003-C is equipped with a 22k gold micro-rotor. Within the watchsphere, few brands offer this form of oscillating mass as it presents many technical challenges. Indeed, with a micro-rotor, when contrasted with a ‘regular’ semi-circular weight, the task of generating sufficient inertia to energise the mainspring has thwarted the ambitions of many brands. However, Biver has surmounted such difficulties. One benefit of using a micro-rotor is that it sits flush with neighbouring bridges, thereby mitigating movement thickness. Moreover, the diminutive dimensions of the oscillating mass provide unimpeded views of said high-end finishing.
Whereas most movements feature an index-regulated balance, the Calibre JCB.003-C is fitted with a variable-inertia balance. With this latter form of regulation, the effective length of the balance spring is fixed and the rate is altered by adjusting inertia weights, termed ‘masselottes’, mounted on the balance wheel. While this approach is more time-consuming to regulate, it is more precise, less susceptible to positional influence and should the watch be subjected to a shock, the watch is less likely to require remedial regulation. Rather than fitting conventional timing screws to the rim of the balance, Biver, once again, goes further by placing the masselottes ‘in-board’ on the spokes of the balance wheel. This latter approach mitigates air turbulence, thereby augmenting isochronism.
Prolonged inspection of the Biver Calibre JCB.003-C reveals even more refinements. For instance, the tip of the escape wheel bridge, the escape wheel itself and the pallet lever are all mirror-polished. While it is customary to fit a balance with a shock protection device, Biver has also fitted a similar device to the escape wheel jewel. Whoever masterminded the brand’s exacting standards can sleep easy knowing they have been fully complied with.
Biver Automatique 3N Yellow Gold models – closing remarks
It seems somewhat superfluous to say that the Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition and its sibling, the Automatique Yellow Gold, are crafted to the highest order. In fact, should you scratch the surface of each reference (figuratively speaking), you will discover there is much substance and a distinct absence of marketing hyperbole.
The inaugural watch dazzled connoisseurs with its fusion of gravity-defying regulation and the crisp, dulcet sounds of a gong and hammer ensemble. With the advent of the Biver Automatique in 2024, the luxury marque chose to engage with a larger audience. Indeed, Biver declared at the time that:
We want the Automatique and the Calibre JCB-003 to bring more people into the Biver community”.
Pierre Biver also stated that:
Hopefully they communicate our values, our ideas, and our taste to a new group of collectors and enthusiasts across the world, laying the foundation for years of exploration to come.”
Companies seldom express their aims with such notable honesty; however, with excellence manifest throughout the Automatique collection, honesty and integrity underpin everything Biver stands for; watchmaking’s old guard take note!
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Biver Automatique Atelier Series Carbon Edition
- Case: 18k yellow gold, diameter 39 mm, height 10 mm, water resistant to 8 bar (80 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Calibre JCB-003, self-winding movement, frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz), 36 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: black braided rubber with a leather-lined interior and an 18k yellow gold pin buckle
- Price: CHF 89,000 excluding taxes (as of 11.4.2025)
- Model: Biver Automatique Yellow Gold
- Case: 18k yellow gold, diameter 39 mm, height 10 mm, water resistant to 8 bar (80 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Calibre JCB-003, self-winding movement, frequency 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz), 36 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: black nubuck leather strap with 18k yellow gold pin buckle
- Price: CHF 75,000 excluding taxes (as of 11.4.2025)
