Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Full Gold Watch Review
Blancpain, a name synonymous with Haute Horlogerie, has just unveiled two new additions to its popular Fifty Fathoms collection, both fully executed in gold. The Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and the Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback are now available in sumptuous 18-carat red gold cases paired with matching solid gold bracelets.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953)
It seems somewhat ironic that in 1953 a watch brand based in a landlocked country conceived ‘the first modern diving watch’, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The story of the legendary divers’ watch can be traced back to Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then CEO of Blancpain and an avid diver.
Fietcher collaborated with Captain Robert Mouloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, both part of the French combat diving corps. These serving members of the military were seeking to procure a watch suitable for the corps’ subaquatic needs.
Ultimately, the resultant watch, the Fifty Fathoms, a name inspired by Shakespeare’s ‘The Tempest’, was equipped with a screw-down crown and a rotating bezel for timing the period underwater. Moreover, the watch proffered superb legibility and robustness. These characteristics have come to define this genre of watch.
The Fifty Fathoms was not only adopted by the French combat diving corps, it was subsequently ‘accepted by many navies as their official divetiming watch’, as proclaimed in brand adverts back in 1954. Once the preserve of the military and hardcore diving professionals, the advent of the Fifty Fathoms coincided with an increased interest in amateur diving.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (circa 1956)
There seems to be some debate as to whether it was 1956 or 1957 when Blancpain released the Bathyscaphe. Once again, the product was the brainchild of Fiechter.
During this time, ‘regular watches’ typically measured 32 mm – 34 mm in diameter; however, due to the need for underwater legibility, the case of the Fifty Fathoms was greater, somewhere between 40 mm – 41 mm.
Clearly a man with a prowess for marketing, Fietcher identified that a divers’ watch was equally valid on terra firma. Back in the 50s, he also recognised the fondness for smaller case dimensions, hence he released the Bathyscaphe, a watch measuring 37 mm in diameter, an ideal size for both men and women and perfectly suited to daily wear.
Over the years, other watch brands have released divers’ watches, targeting the so-called ‘desk-diver’ segment. This latter term refers to those individuals who have no desire to exploit the full potential of a divers’ watch, but do appreciate the appearance, legibility and robustness that comes with a timepiece intended for subaquatic use; however, Fietcher was certainly a pioneer in marketing this genre of watch.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms rebirth (2007)
With the advent of quartz movements during the 70s, Blancpain, like most Swiss watch brands, experienced a downturn in sales. Ultimately, the company was acquired by SSIH, a firm that amalgamated with ASUAG to form what is now known as the Swatch Group. Initially, Blancpain concentrated on making classical models for which it was known for, but in 2007, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was reborn. The updated model incorporated some modern-day enhancements and was tailored to suit the needs of a new generation of horophiles.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe rebirth (2013)
In 2013, no doubt buoyed by the success of the updated Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain unveiled a new Bathyscaphe at Baselworld. Measuring 43 mm in diameter, the model was larger than its antecedents of the 50s and 60s, but still smaller than the existing hardcore Fifty Fathoms.
Since its revival, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe has carved a lucrative niche within the divers’ watch segment. The Swiss marque has combined subaquatic practicality, silicium know-how and a broad array of complications, offered in numerous dial colours and a myriad of case materials.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Full Gold – two new options
Clearly a company that is marketing savvy, Blancpain has now released two additional variants of the Bathyscaphe, both housed in a case formed of satin-brushed 18-carat red gold. However, what differentiates these new references from their siblings is that they are fitted with 18-carat red gold bracelets.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
Blancpain states the ‘hand satin-brushed links are joined together by means of transverse pins, endowing them with a flexibility that ensures a perfect fit on the wrist’. According to the brand from the Vallée de Joux, this patented system grants a smooth appearance and confers ‘great comfort’.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
The full gold treatment is available with the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. The Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet indicates the day, date, month and moon phases, drawing on the regional expertise synonymous with watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback Full Gold – my choice
Personally speaking, I’m especially drawn to the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. This form of chronograph can do everything a ‘regular’ chronograph can do and more. Featuring a flyback complication, it can time several elapsed periods in quick succession.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
Imagine timing an athlete running around a track. While the chronograph is running, the wearer can press the pushpiece at 4 o’clock to stop, ‘return to zero’ and start the mechanism all in one step. This obviates the need for rapid pushpiece-pressing and heightens the validity of the recorded time.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
The movement, the Calibre F385, has a frequency of 36,000 vph (5Hz), making it less susceptible to shocks, thereby aiding precision. Moreover, the higher cadence mitigates positional influence. This fully integrated movement also features a column-wheel and vertical coupling, ensuring stutter-free actuation of the chronograph mechanism and granting a silky-smooth pushpiece action.
The silicon balance spring is not susceptible to magnetic influence, nor is it sensitive to changes in temperature and is not liable to corrosion. Furthermore, the silicon balance spring can be formed very precisely, hence it can be perfectly optimised to breathe concentrically, delivering superb precision.
Image – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
Blancpain has equipped the Calibre F385 with a variable inertia balance. When contrasted with the ubiquitous index-regulated system, the Blancpain approach facilitates more precise setting of the rate and should the watch be subjected to a shock it is less likely to require remedial regulation.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Full Gold – closing words
When it comes to new product development, some watch brands appear to be all at sea. However, since Fietcher masterminded the first Fifty Fathoms back in 1953, the Swiss marque has continuously observed trends, listened to market feedback and enhanced its portfolio of subaquatic timepieces. Despite being based in the Vallée de Joux, an altitudinous region far from the sea, Blancpain has always remained close to those horophiles who appreciate the merits of a high-quality divers’ watch.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet
- Reference: 5054 3640 76S
- Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter 43.00 mm, height 13.40 mm, water resistance 30 ATM (300m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, day, pointer-date, month, moon phases
- Movement: Calibre 6654.P.4, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 28 jewels, power reserve 72 hours, 321 components.
- Strap: 18-carat red gold bracelet with a folding clasp
- Price: £51,600 (RRP as of 31.7.2024)
- Model: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
- Reference: 5200 3640 76S
- Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter 43.00 mm, height 14.90 mm, water resistance 30 ATM (300m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph
- Movement: Calibre F385, self-winding movement, frequency 36,000 vph (5 Hz), 37 jewels, power reserve 50 hours, 322 components.
- Strap: 18-carat red gold bracelet with a folding clasp
- Price: £51,600 (RRP as of 31.7.2024)
