Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Watch Review
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde was unveiled a few months ago at Watches & Wonders 2024. Offered in two case variants, 18-carat rose gold or platinum, the watch features a sublime hand-wound movement formed of gold. Angus Davies explores this model in detail, highlighting its many refinements and pointing out its numerous subtleties.
Parmigiani Fleurier watch
I was about 8 years of age when, standing in the school playground, dressed in a pair of grey flannel shorts, I plucked up the courage and walked over to a neatly attired schoolgirl. With a degree of nervousness, I blurted out, “I fink you’re really pretty Keeley Holt”. She looked at me with a bright smile and, suddenly emboldened, I continued, “I fink I luv ya”. With just a few clumsy words, I had expressed my thoughts, albeit in simplistic form.
The reason for sharing this experience is that it serves to demonstrate that sensitivity comes from wisdom. And, when I look at the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde, the brand’s sensitivity to line, shape and form is palpable. The use of texture, the arrangement of dial elements at different heights and the ergonomic profile of the case are the product of experience and exceptional aesthetic discernment. But before, I become lost in a world of sumptuous materials and design, I think it is incumbent upon me to talk about the evolution of Parmigiani Fleurier in recent years.
Parmigiani Fleurier founded in 1996
Parmigiani Fleurier is headquartered in Fleurier, a village located in the district of Val-de-Travers. Founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, the company’s origins are deeply-rooted in the restoration of automata, clocks and watches. The firm has restored some of the rarest horological artefacts ever made. It is this experience that led Michel Parmigiani to use the finest materials and execute his timepieces in such a way they would confer notable longevity. Indeed, I’ve interviewed Monsieur Parmigiani on several occasions and each time he has talked about crafting watches that could be returned to an ‘as new’ condition in 150 years’ time.
Image – Michel Parmigiani
Guido Terreni appointed CEO in 2021
In 2021, Guido Terreni, a veteran of the watch industry, was appointed CEO of the brand and immediately hit the ground running. In a few short months, he masterminded the hugely popular Tonda PF, a collection of sports-chic timepieces that paradoxically stand out for their genteel understated styling.
Image – Guido Terreni
Unlike many rival watch marques, Terreni has opted for minimal branding, preferring to adorn the dial with an unfussy ‘PF’ emblem. By taking this decision, he afforded each remaining dial element sufficient room to breathe. Moreover, Terreni, clearly inspired by the sartorial world, endowed each reference with a cloth-like nap, conferring a subtly textured dial epidermis that charmingly engages with light.
Further notable characteristics of the Tonda PF models are the intricately engineered bracelets that cosset the wrist while remaining resolutely secure. Terreni also had the inspired idea of juxtaposing a steel case with a fluted platinum bezel. When viewed in photographs, the tonal difference between the two metals is virtually imperceptible; however, hold the watch between forefinger and thumb in natural light and the nuanced contrast becomes apparent.
Since the inaugural references burst onto the watch scene in 2021, the Tonda PF collection has grown, embracing new colours, complications, case sizes, etc. However, while the Tonda PF collection was wholly new when launched in 2021, Terreni continues to uphold the firm’s legendary no-compromise standards. Indeed, each movement is expertly designed, crafted and finished, perpetuating Michel Parmigiani’s philosophy, an approach taken since the Maison was established in 1996.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric – a familiar name
Back in 1996, the company launched its first watch, the Toric QP and thereafter it has released various Torics in circular and tonneau-shaped forms. Each model featured ‘gadroons and knurling’, a term used by the brand to describe the fluted motif gracing the bezel.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Gold (PFC940-2010001-300181)
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante (PFH951-2010001-300181)
– £133,380 (RRP as of 25.7.2024)
While the latest Toric Petite Seconde and Toric Chronograph Rattrapante embrace the beloved knurled bezel treatment, they are unquestionably new. I intend to review the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante at a later date, but for now I wish to focus on the Toric Petite Seconde, a model that remains one of my favourite releases of Watches & Wonders 2024. What is the reason for my admiration for this seemingly simple timepiece? Allow me to elaborate.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – 18-carat rose gold or platinum
The colour of the dial and hands is optimally paired with the chosen case material. The 18-carat rose gold model (PFC940-2010001-300181) is complemented with matching hands and indexes set against a ‘Sand Gold’ dial. I confess to being especially drawn to the platinum model (PFC940-2010004-300181) with its silver toned hands and indexes. The dial of this latter model is described as ‘Grey Celadron’ but, having worn the watch, I would describe it as a muted and refined mid-green.
Hereafter, I will focus on the platinum model, albeit save for the colourway and case material, the styling of each model is the same. Furthermore, both variants share the same hand-wound movement, the Calibre PF780.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – dial
The watch is fitted with faceted lancine-style hour and minute hands which are formed of 18-carat gold and then rhodium-plated to achieve the desired silvery hue. The hands circumnavigate a matte dial that’s been expertly grained by time-served hand. Imbuing the surface with a matte finish involves the artisan applying a mixture of cream of tartar, sea salt, silver and demineralised water, using a series of brushes. The applied hand pressure and the stiffness of the brushes employed influence the end result.
At first glance, the resultant dial appears simple, but on closer inspection the complexity of its softly-spoken surface becomes apparent. In a shouty world, the dial says refinement in hushed tones. A recessed small seconds display resides in the southern hemisphere of the dial. It is endowed with a fine steel hand, rhodium-plated to match its larger siblings, imparting information in lucid form.
Again, it’s the subtlest details that distinguish the Toric Petite Seconde as special. The hour track sits lower than the main dial plain, a crisp bevelled edge delineates one surface from the other. Returning to the recessed small seconds display, a bevelled circlet serves as a boundary, demarcating one level from the other.
The dial canvas is signed ‘PF’ and framed with oval-shaped brightwork. In a world blighted with overbearing branding, Parmigiani Fleurier has once again intelligently opted for tasteful restraint.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – case
Measuring 40.6 mm in diameter, with a modest case height of 8.8 mm, the scale of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde will suit the majority of wrists. In addition, the lugs arc downwards, mitigating the sense of scale.
Since the Maison was founded, Michel Parmigiani has always given due consideration to the golden ratio and the Fibonacci sequence when designing elements of his watches, especially cases. Guido Terreni and his team have perpetuated this philosophy with the profile of the lugs, something the brand depicts in the sketches below.
Another stylistic influence evident with the design of the case is the stepped arrangement of the case and bezel, inspired by Doric columns. While the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde is unequivocally new, there is some commonality with previous references. This is commendable as it ensures that owners of earlier Toric models are not left with a watch that now looks passé. Yet again, Parmigiani Fleurier demonstrates a very considered approach to design.
A simple flat-sided caseband would have been simpler to produce and would undoubtedly have kept the bean counters happy. However, PF has rejected such penny-pinching, instead suffusing the housing of the Toric Petite Seconde with a plethora of curves and angles. Every resultant shape charmingly plays with light and shadow.
Parmigiani Fleurier Calibre PF780
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the manual movement, the Calibre PF780. Formed of 18-carat rose gold, the noble bridges and mainplate are a rare sight in a watchsphere where the use of rhodium-plated brass is the norm. Besides its notable beauty, gold is one of the least reactive metals, obviating the need for plating. However, due to its softness it can be easily marked by a careless watchmaker, hence they must exercise care at all times.
Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Gold (PFC940-2010001-300181)
Three large bridges dominate the dorsal view and attractively unite straight and arcing lines to deliver a unique aesthetic. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Fleurier, a diamond-like motif that proves an attractive alternative to the usual Côtes de Genève decoration found on most high-end watches. PF has chosen to sandblast the mainplate, something that is evident near the balance and twin barrels (see later). The juxtaposing of these two finishes serves to heighten the visual allure of the movement.
Movement finishing
Movement finishing removes burrs which could inhibit the motion of components. Furthermore, it eradicates signs of machining and improves the appearance of components. Returning to Michel Parmgiaini’s quest for longevity, PF also finishes parts to improve their corrosion resistance. Appraising the movement of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde, the quality of the finishing is beyond reproach. Hand bevelling abounds, while screws and jewels reside in polished sinks. Both barrels are supported by openworked cocks, while the balance is supported with a twin-arm openworked bridge, delivering superior stability. The cocks, balance bridge and screw heads are beautifully mirror-polished.
Other movement attributes
The aforementioned twin barrels deliver a prodigious power reserve of 60 hours. Moreover, by using two barrels, the force delivered to the escapement will be more linear, aiding rate stability.
Unlike most watches which are fitted with an index-regulated balance, PF has chosen to equip the Calibre PF780 with a superior variable inertia balance. Why superior you may ask? Allow me to explain by first discussing the index-regulated balance.
Index-regulated balance
In simple terms, the inner coil of the balance spring is fixed to the balance staff using a ‘collet’, while the outer coil of the balance spring is attached to the ‘stud’. The balance spring passes between two pins called ‘curb pins’, mounted on an ‘index adjuster’. When the index adjuster (sometimes called a ‘raquette’) is moved towards or away from the stud, it changes the effective length of the balance spring, altering the rate of the watch.
Variable-inertia balance
With a variable-inertia balance, the effective length of the balance spring is fixed and the rate is altered by adjusting inertia weights affixed to the balance wheel. Traditionally, these weights took the form of timing screws set in the rim of balance wheel (not to be confused with poising screws). By loosening or tightening the screws, the watchmaker can alter the moment of inertia. This approach allows the watchmaker to fine tune the regulation of the movement to achieve a higher level of precision. Secondly, should the watch be subjected to a shock, the movement is less likely to require remedial regulation.
In the case of the Calibre PF780, PF has positioned the inertia weights (aka ‘masselottes’) on the spokes of the balance wheel, mitigating air turbulence, once again aiding precision.
If a variable-inertia balance is technically better than an index-regulated balance, it prompts the question ‘why doesn’t every watch feature this superior form of regulation?’ Put simply, because it requires more time and expertise; rare commodities that would appear to be in abundance at the prestigious Maison.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde – closing remarks
At first glance, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde appears to be a simple design; however, nothing could be further from the truth. Without taking the time to fully appraise the watch it is very easy to overlook its many refined details and carefully considered characteristics.
Having typed over 2000 words, I hope I have captured the sheer majesty of this fine watch. An exemplar of Haute Horlogerie, it is likely to seduce many watch aficionados with its nuanced composition. In the same the first Tonda PF models of 2021 showcased a rare sensitivity for design, the Toric Petite Seconde wonderfully embraces subtlety to deliver a superb ownership proposition.
Looking back at that innocent schoolboy with grubby hands and knees, I can excuse his clumsy attempts to express affection to Keeley. After all, he was only eight years of age. Unfortunately, even with the onset of years, the capacity for sensitivity eludes many individuals. In the sphere of high-end horology, Guido Terreni has demonstrated a sensitivity for line, form, colour and texture, something he has honed over many years working within the luxury watch segment. Terreni’s flair and aesthetic sensitivity are, once again, much in evidence with this latest product of Fleurier, the Toric Petite Seconde.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Platinum
- Reference: PFC940-2010004-300181
- Case: platinum, diameter 40.6 mm, height 8.8 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre PF780, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 157 components.
- Bracelet: sand-gold hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle
- Price: £51,380 (RRP as of 25.7.2024)
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Gold
- Reference: PFC940-2010001-300181
- Case: 18-carat rose gold, diameter 40.6 mm, height 8.8 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre PF780, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 157 components.
- Bracelet: grey celadon hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: £44,460 (RRP as of 25.7.2024)
