Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel Watch Review
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022. It is a perfect example of Haute Horlogerie, featuring a high complication, sublime finishing, many horological refinements and the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Angus Davies details the many attributes of this high-end timepiece.
Chopard St. Moritz
In the 1970s, a new genre of watch emerged, the luxury steel sports watch. While utilitarian sports watches had been around for some years before, the emergence of this new watch segment saw the arrival of more elegant, sophisticated and aesthetically appealing watches. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, was just 22 years of age when, inspired by a clock on his father’s desk, he conceived the St. Moritz, the Genevan firm’s answer to the luxury sports watch. The St. Moritz proved very different from other Chopard timepieces. Housed in steel, it shunned Chopard’s metal of choice at the time, gold, albeit it treated the iron-based alloy as if it were a precious metal.
Subscribing to the form follows function design philosophy, the bezel sported eight functional screws, grouped in four pairs of two, and the model featured an integrated bracelet, a detail that was de rigueur at the time. Ultimately, new variants were unveiled eg a skeleton and a triple calendar moonphase model. Later, in 1998, the model was updated.
While the St. Moritz enjoyed commercial success, the model was eventually discontinued and the brand elected to focus its efforts on the sophisticated L.U.C collection.
When was the inaugural Chopard Alpine Eagle launched?
In the second half of 2019, the prestigious marque unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle, a reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, distilled for a present-day audience. A few weeks after its launch, I visited Fleurier Ebauches, one of the Swiss firm’s movement facilities, and, thereafter, I went on to spend time in Geneva where the cases and bracelets are made and watch assembly takes place.
At the time of its launch, the Alpine Eagle was offered in two sizes, 41mm and 36mm. It’s fair to say the Chopard Alpine Eagle has been a huge success for the Maison. Indeed, the range has been enlarged and now includes a flyback chronograph, various gem-set models and even a high-frequency option. Recently, the family-owned firm unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel, the focal point of this feature.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223 dial – the iris of a golden eagle’s eye
To date, the Chopard Alpine Eagle models have always featured a distinctive textured dial, inspired by the iris of a golden eagle’s eye. With this latest reference, the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223, the Maison has, once again, employed the aforementioned dial motif, albeit in this instance, it is executed in ‘Aletsch Blue’.
The hour and minute hands perpetuate the Alpine Eagle design language. They are plump, lined with luminescent material and convey meaning efficiently. The applied hour markers comprise batons and Roman numerals, again lined with luminescent fill. The hour markers are generously proportioned, facilitating ease of read-off. A discreet hand affixed to the flying tourbillon cage imparts the seconds. As its name implies, this version of the Alpine Eagle is equipped with a flying tourbillon.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel – tourbillon
The tourbillon can trace its origins to the late 18th century when Abraham-Louis Breguet identified that gravity had an adverse influence on the regulating organ and, by default, precision. His solution was to place the escapement and regulating organ within a rotating cage, thereby negating the effects of gravity. He patented his invention in 1801.
In 1920, Alfred Helwig, a teacher at the German Watchmaking School, revisited Breguet’s work and invented the flying tourbillon. Whereas a regular tourbillon has an upper and lower bridge, a flying tourbillon eschews the upper bridge, allowing the wearer to see more of the escapement and regulating organ in motion. It’s a spectacle likely to evoke smiles on the face of any self-respecting horophile.
Chronometer
A minute track, positioned on the rehaut, frames the dial and proves helpful when reading the time. Below noon, the brand’s nomen is stated in clear text, while beneath this, the word ‘Chronometer’ eludes to the watch’s notable precision.
What is Lucent steel?
The Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon is housed in a Lucent Steel A223 case. This form of stainless steel was developed by Voestalpine, an Austrian-based firm. Consistent with Chopard’s ethos of sustainable luxury, Lucent Steel A223 comprises 70 per cent recycled steel. Moreover, the steel alloy is melted twice, thereby improving its purity. The resultant material shares similar characteristics to surgical steel, for example, it’s hypoallergenic. It is also 50% harder than conventional stainless steel, enhancing its scratch resistance. Finally, the material’s pure composition imbues it with an extraordinary brilliance.
Despite its added complexity, the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223 is no wider than the regular three-hander, measuring just 41mm in diameter. Perhaps even more surprising, considering its specification, is that the case is actually thinner at 8mm. One reason for the model’s slender profile is undoubtedly the micro-rotor at the heart of the L.U.C 96-24-L movement, something I will discuss in more detail later.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel – 41mm case
Certainly, having worn the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223, I can attest that its 41mm case and integrated bracelet deliver impressive levels of wearer comfort and the watch should suit the majority of wrist sizes.
Chopard has juxtaposed polished and vertical satin-brushed surfaces throughout. This is particularly noticeable on the intricately engineered bracelet which features a row of prominent, highly polished squares that project forward from the rest of the bracelet which is otherwise vertically-satin brushed. As stated previously, I visited Chopard’s Geneva site in 2019 and witnessed this bracelet being made. It is beautifully engineered and, without doubt, it is one of the finest bracelets I have ever seen.
To the rear of the case, a large expanse of sapphire crystal affords sight of the self-winding L.U.C 96-24-L movement.
L.U.C 96-24-L movement
Chopard has chosen to equip this model with its high-end L.U.C 96-24-L movement. This is the ultimate expression of Chopard watchmaking know-how. The Swiss marque has equipped the movement with an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor.
The Maison opened its Manufacture in 1996 and subsequently unveiled the L.U.C 1.96 movement (now called the 96.01L). This self-winding movement featured a 22-carat gold micro-rotor, a technical challenge only a few other brands have mastered. The benefit of a micro-rotor is that it sits flush with neighbouring bridges rather than above them. This helps mitigate the thickness of the movement and grants sight of the beautifully decorated bridges.
Finissage
The watch is ‘punched’ with the Poinçon de Genève (see later), providing an independent guarantee of provenance, craftsmanship, quality and an indication of exceptional expertise. An attribute of watches bearing the Poinçon de Genève, is that they are always finished to exacting standards. This is manifest with the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223. Perlage adorns the mainplate (visible adjacent to the micro-rotor), the bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève, all signs of machining have been removed and polished chamfers abound. Moreover, any holes or recesses in the bridges feature polished bevels and the sinks for the jewel holes are also polished to a brilliant conclusion. The requirements of the Poinçon de Genève are onerous, but the resultant watches bearing the seal are worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’.
Regulation
Returning to the specification of the L.U.C 96-24-L, most mechanical movements are equipped with an index-adjuster or raquette. By moving the raquette towards or away from the stud, the effective length of the hairspring changes, making the watch run faster or slower. However, the L.U.C 96-24-L movement is equipped with a variable inertia balance. The rate is therefore adjusted by rotating four weights positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel which, in turn, alter the moment of inertia. The weights are placed in-board thereby producing less air turbulence which again enhances precision. A variable inertia balance is less susceptible to positional errors and delivers superior rate stability.
Twin barrels
The movement features two stacked barrels which grant 65 hours of autonomous operation. By employing two barrels instead of one, the power serving the escapement and, ultimately, the regulating organ is more consistent, thereby augmenting precision.
COSC-certified
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel is a chronometer-certified by COSC. This independent, not-for-profit organisation, tests ‘wristwatches with a balance spring’ based on seven criteria set by ISO 3159. The wristwatch is evaluated over a 15 day period at different temperatures and in various positions. Assuming the movement meets the minimum requirements of COSC, it is certified as a chronometer.
The Poinçon de Genève
Geneva has a rich history of watchmaking dating back to the 16th century when Huguenots, French protestants, settled in the city. Many Huguenots employed their talents to make watches. Indeed, the name Genève’, when applied to watches, conferred status. Needless to say, unscrupulous individuals began ‘passing off’ watches that were inferior or made outside of the Canton of Geneva.
‘In 1886, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva passed Law I 1.25 on the voluntary testing of watches in response to the obvious need for high-quality certification in watchmaking. This ultimately led to the creation of the Poinçon de Genève covering the craftsmanship, regularity and durability of operation, and certificates of origin.’
A few years ago, the scope of the Poinçon de Genève was extended. No longer was it restricted to the 12 historic criteria relating to a movement, but it also encompassed the exterior and performance of the watch.
Today, the Poinçon de Genève is a guarantee of provenance, craftsmanship, a token of quality and an indication of exceptional expertise. To carry the ‘punch’, a watch must be assembled within the Canton of Geneva. Previously, the Poinçon de Genève was overseen by the Geneva watchmaking school, however, today the standards are rigorously maintained by TimeLab and its team of independent auditors. Participating brands are subject to independent audits approximately once per month.
Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon Lucent Steel – closing thoughts
When Chopard launched the Alpine Eagle in 2019 I was immediately smitten by its appearance. Indeed, the 41mm version of the model, equipped with a blue dial, is on my lengthy wish list. Furthermore, after visiting Chopard’s facilities in Fleurier and Geneva, my admiration for the watch grew exponentially.
The Lucent Steel A223 feels nobler than the ubiquitous 316L. Its brilliance surpasses the utilitarian characteristic of regular stainless steel, contributing to the overall perception of luxury. In addition, it employs a high quotient of recycled steel, making it a more sustainable option.
Chopard has not made life easy for itself. In order to mark this model with the Poinçon de Genève it will have needed to employ materials and practices outlined by the accreditation body, TimeLab. Moreover, TimeLab will regularly audit Chopard to ensure the Maison is adhering to its stringent requirements. The watch is certified as a chronometer by COSC after it has been subject to additional scrutiny. This independent validation of standards should provide peace of mind to even the wariest of horophiles.
But, personally speaking, all roads lead back to the dial. Reminiscent of a golden eagle’s iris and presented in ‘Aletsch Blue’, the dial motif is both original and highly attractive. Along with the hands and hour markers, the dial proves effortless to read. However, the pièce de résistance is, unequivocally, the aperture at the base of the dial. It reveals the tourbillon in flight, numerous components in motion and provides a doorway to a movement suffused with peerless finishing. Once again, Chopard demonstrates the luxury steel sports watch is alive, well and, in this instance, better than ever.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon in Lucent Steel A223
- Reference: 298616-3001
- Case: Lucent Steel A223, diameter 41mm, height 8mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon; stop seconds
- Movement: L.U.C 96.24-L, self-winding movement, frequency 25,200 vph (3.5Hz); 25 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC)
- Bracelet: Lucent Steel A223 tapering bracelet with satin-brushed wide link and sides, polished central cap with Lucent Steel A223 triple folding clasp
- Price: Price on application