TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition is the latest creation to leave the Swiss brand’s site in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The first Heuer Monaco, released in 1969, wowed onlookers with its square case. Now, the Swiss marque unveils a new version of the Monaco featuring a degradé dial, dressed in purple tones.
Heuer Monaco – the square watch
The watchworld abounds with round watches. A circular disc of metal is less likely to polarise opinion and is more likely to succeed. Nevertheless, when a brand boldly embraces a new form, it can sometimes deliver something unique and memorable.
In 1969, Heuer (the previous name for TAG Heuer) veered from the well-used highway and selected a road less travelled. The Heuer Monaco was the first watch to be equipped with a water-resistant square case. Heuer signed an exclusivity deal with specialist case supplier, Piquerez, providing the brand with a point of difference from rival brand, Breitling.
Prior to the Piquerez deal, Breitling, Buren, Dubois Dépraz and Heuer had been working together on a new groundbreaking self-winding chronograph movement. As the calibre (codenamed Project 99) neared completion, Jack Heuer came to the realisation that Breitling would be in direct competition with its watch, equipped with the same movement. The square case provided the solution. Over 50 years later, the TAG Heuer Monaco still proffers a distinctive look and a high quotient of aesthetic charm.
Heuer Monaco – the reference 1133B
The inaugural model, the reference 1133B, featured a blue dial, white counters (square with rounded corners) and prominent red hands. For many purists, a TAG Heuer Monaco must always stay true to the original colour scheme. However, the Swiss avant-garde brand has never been afraid to release limited edition models. Some of these latter creations have been produced for a specific market (eg Japan), motorsport enthusiasts (eg Gulf branded models) and radical free-thinkers (eg The Dark Lord).
TAG Heuer Monaco – 50th anniversary
Marking the 50th anniversary of the Monaco, TAG Heuer produced five limited-edition models, each referencing a 10-year period in history. These models wonderfully showcased the creativity of the Swiss marque and, I suspect, they will become highly sought after in years to come (only 169 pieces were produced in each variant).
Now, there is a new creation to whet the appetite of any TAG Heuer devotee, the Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition. The model’s name clearly communicates the dominant colour scheme, however, there is more Heuer-deliciousness to be found with the movement.
TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition – Calibre Heuer 02
The Calibre Heuer 02 sits at the heart of this model. It has become the go-to chronograph movement for the Swiss watch brand in recent years. Featuring a column wheel and vertical coupling, the movement promises stutter-free starts when the chronograph is actuated and a silky-smooth pushpiece action that would embarrass several costlier watches. Factor in a useful 80-hour power reserve, and you have a winning package. In order to differentiate this version of the Calibre Heuer 02 from other iterations, the column wheel is dressed in a mouthwatering splash of blackcurrant and the oscillating weight incorporates purple text.
TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition – price and availability
The TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition is priced at £5,950 (RRP as of 6.7.2022) and limited to just 500 pieces. The model is sold exclusively in TAG Heuer boutiques.
TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition – the brand’s press release
Born in 1969, the rule-defying square-shaped chronograph has kept its maverick spirit alive and thriving through the decades, with many statements and sought-after variations of its original blue dial.
In 2022 the brand is releasing a never-seen-before edition of only 500 numbered pieces. The new TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition combines its unmistakable heritage with fresh and distinctive finishes.
The 39-mm square case in fine-brushed and polished steel houses an elegantly imagined dial in a rich purple colour. The dial gradient, from lighter purple in the centre to darker purple at the edge, adds depth and sophistication to the piece, while the rhodium-plated indexes and hands with white Super- LumiNova® and the two black opaline sub-counters subtly enhance the unexpected smoky design.
Connoisseurs of the TAG Heuer Monaco lineage might recognize a subtle parallel with the very early Heuer Monaco reference 1113B, the Chronomatic version launched at the beginning
of 1969, as well as the transitional series – before what is known as the “McQueen” – and the reference 1533 Calibre 15. These pieces used a different dial finish with a metallic blue paint over the brass plate. Over time, the dials have shown a tendency to patinate from blue to a similar dégradé purple colour, sometimes slightly faded in the centre and darker around the edges.
In the 2022 interpretation, TAG Heuer’s in-house chronograph movement, Calibre Heuer 02, is clearly visible through the sapphire case back, and features a customised oscillating mass, column wheel, and engravings, with purple details. It offers outstanding timekeeping performance including a power reserve of 80 hours. For an added special touch, the black alligator strap is also lined with purple on the inside and the case back is engraved with the piece’s number of XXX/500.
With this vibrant new aesthetic, the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition explores new design territories without losing sight of its distinctive heritage. Available from July 2022, the chronograph will be sold exclusively in TAG Heuer boutiques.