Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator Watch Review

The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator is ‘a limited-edition revival of a classic’, where, unlike a regular timepiece, the indication of minutes reigns supreme. Housed in an 18-carat ethical white gold case, the model shares some aspects in common with the Chopard L.U.C Regulator launched at Baselworld 2015. Featuring the same highly impressive hand-wound L.U.C Calibre 98-02-L, the new model is smaller yet somehow proves simpler to read – Angus Davies explains why. 

Regulator watches

Should you consult a dictionary, you will see that the word ‘regular’ can mean ‘normal’, ‘ordinary’ or ‘typical’. However, when it comes to fine watches, there is nothing ordinary or regular about a ‘regulator’. On the contrary, the term ‘regulator’ refers to highly precise clocks and watches, historically used by watchmakers and observatories as a reference when setting other timepieces, where minutes, not hours, reign supreme. Indeed, unlike a regular watch where the hours, minutes and sometimes the seconds are indicated with coaxial hands, the regulator effectively deconstructs time into discrete indications. The minutes, the most important indication, assume a dominant position, occupying most of the dial, while the hours and seconds are shown individually on separate subdials. A prerequisite for any regulator is that it remains effortlessly simple to read.

Once the preserve of a watchmaker’s workshop, the regulator has now become a popular choice among horophiles who appreciate the distinctive appearance and intelligibility of this genre of watch.

Chopard x Regulators

At Baselworld 2015, Chopard released the L.U.C Regulator (Ref. 161971-5001), an ultra-refined chronometer-certified timepiece bearing the Poinçon de Genève. Housed in a 43.00 mm, 18-carat rose gold case, the model’s inventory of functions also extended to a 24-hour GMT display, a power-reserve indicator and a date display. Despite being unveiled 11 years ago, the L.U.C Regulator has remained immune to the fickleness of fashion and continues to retain its youthful glow.

Image – L.U.C Regulator (Ref. 161971-5001) launched at Baselworld 2015

Recently, Chopard unveiled the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator (Ref. 161993-1001), ‘a limited-edition revival of a classic’. Presented in 18-carat ethical white gold, the watch shares a close resemblance to its antecedent of 2015, albeit with some subtle improvements that have enhanced readability. Most notably, the dial looks cleaner, yet surprisingly, the new reference measures 40 mm in diameter, 3 mm less than its rose gold forebear. I will now endeavour to show how Chopard has achieved this.

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator – dial

The satin-brushed, silver-toned dial is endowed with a sunburst pattern and features blue markings that tastefully enliven the horological vista. A lone, elongated minute hand dominates the dial, reaching out towards a snailed chemin de fer framing the display. This white gold dauphine-type hand is rhodium-plated and facetted, capturing light to deliver tonal contrast against the silver-hued backdrop. The dial adopts double-digit minute markers, positioned at 5-minute intervals. In addition, there are five further dial indications, each playing a supporting role.

At 3 o’clock, a counter indicates the hours, employing a slim, facetted hand to impart meaning. The hour values are presented on a recessed snailed track, while the centre of the display sits on a higher level and features a secondary track with strokes arranged at 30-minute intervals. A crisp circlet, positioned inside the latter track, further aids readability and heightens eye-appeal.

A small seconds display resides at 6 o’clock. It shares a similar appearance to the hour indication, with its recessed track incorporating a snailed finish. The centre of the indication is smooth and again sits on a higher level. Meanwhile, the date aperture is now integrated into the small seconds display, sitting at ease with the surrounding elements and proving easier to read than the indication on the 2015 reference.

As mentioned earlier, when Chopard introduced the L.U.C Regulator in 2015, it added additional functions not usually seen on this type of watch. The new L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator subscribes to the same approach. It is again endowed with a 24-hour GMT display, located at 9 o’clock. This again shares the same look as the subdials at 3 and 6 o’clock (ie incorporating a recessed snailed track). The central area of the subdial is adorned with a series of lines, indicating day/night, and is marked with ‘GMT’ in relief.

A power-reserve indicator resides at 12 o’clock, showing the energy stored within the four barrels (see later). It uses a combination of crisp markings, Arabic numerals and a fine needle-like hand to impart meaning.

Contrasting the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator with the 2015 release, the design of the new dial seems more cohesive, with each counter now endowed with a recessed snailed track, creating a stepped appearance. Moreover, the use of contrasting textures and the arrangement of elements at different heights serves to enrich the horological canvas. Another improvement to the dial is that the brand has removed some text from the counters seen on the 2015 reference (eg ‘HRS’, ‘SEC’ and ’60’). As previously mentioned, Chopard has retained the letters ‘GMT’ on the subdial at 9 o’clock but this time has chosen to present the text in relief, contributing to the dial’s softly spoken character.

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator – case

Over the years, Chopard has demonstrated a remarkable talent for crafting watches blessed with ageless aesthetics. Nevertheless, for any luxury brand to succeed, it cannot ignore the desires of potential clients. By creating a reference measuring 40 mm in diameter, some 3 mm less than the 2015 release, Chopard has sought to sate the desires of today’s watch buyer. The height is now 10.30 mm, a smidgen thicker than the 2015 reference (9.78 mm), but rest assured the model still discreetly slips beneath the cuff of a shirt.

As mentioned earlier, the case is now formed of 18-carat ethical white gold, reinforcing the watch’s elegantly understated character. Consistent with most L.U.C models, the 1963 Heritage Regulator tastefully juxtaposes polished and satin-brushed surfaces. For example, the polished bezel shines resplendently, while the satin-brushed caseband acts as a counterbalance, preventing the watch from appearing gaudy.

To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal invites the wearer to discover the delights of Haute Horlogerie.

Chopard L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L

The well-known phrase, ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ seems most apt when discussing the hand-wound L.U.C Calibre 98-02-L. Powering the 2015 release, it makes a welcome return in the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. Measuring 30.4 mm in diameter and a mere 4.90 mm thick, it fits neatly within the new 40 mm housing.

Unusually, the movement contains four barrels, conferring a prodigious power-reserve of 216 hours. Moreover, beyond its capacity to run for 9 days without the need for winding, the use of four barrels ensures the transfer of force via the gear train to the escapement is more linear, aiding precision. Chopard has subjected the watch to the scrutiny of the COSC and its ‘7 eliminatory criteria’ which includes achieving an average daily rate of (-4) to (+6) seconds per day.

The watch is marked with the Poinçon de Genève (aka Geneva Seal), a hallmark dating back to 1886. It is a guarantee of provenance, craftsmanship, quality and exceptional expertise. For a watch to bear this historic hallmark, it must be assembled and adjusted within the Canton of Geneva. Moreover, the requirements also extend to the accuracy, the specification of several movement parts (eg the thickness of the escape wheel) and demands that all movement components are finished to a flawless standard.

A stipulation of the Geneva Seal is that all signs of machining are removed. For example, the mainplate (effectively the chassis of the movement) is normally produced using a CNC machine. After milling, evidence of machining inevitably remains and therefore must be removed. Thereafter, the mainplate is decorated with perlage (a motif formed of overlapping circles), a traditional decoration typically found on Haute Horlogerie pieces. Other forms of finishing are applied to the movement’s bridges, including Côtes de Genève, anglage and polished sinks for the jewels and screws.

Another notable feature of the L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L is that it is equipped with a swan neck regulator. This, along with the mobile stud holder (with a rounded head), is mirror-polished, widely considered one of the most challenging forms of decoration to execute.

Closing remarks

The L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator retains the same hand-wound L.U.C Calibre 98-02-L seen on the 2015 release, which will inevitably attract nods of approval from purists. Courtesy of its four barrels, the force serving the escapement is more linear, hence the amplitude of the balance wheel will remain relatively consistent, aiding precision. This is independently backed up with the award of chronometer certification (COSC). Moreover, the execution of the movement is of the highest order, fulfilling the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève.

The dial of the new L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator incorporates new textures and depths and also omits some of the text found on the 2015 release. These changes have improved legibility, resulting in a sharper, more refined aesthetic. Remarkably, while the dial appears less cluttered, the diameter of the watch has been reduced to 40 mm ie 3 mm less than the 2015 watch.

Originally used in a watchmaker’s workshop or observatory, regulator watches/clocks must be precise and simple to interpret. Chopard has created a timepiece that fulfils these requirements, while also looking handsome and delivering the peerless standards synonymous with Haute Horlogerie. The appeal of this watch is clear to see, but with only 25 pieces being produced, demand will inevitably outstrip supply.