Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is the latest chapter in a powerful story that began in 2000. Endowed with four barrels, serving the escapement with a linear supply of force, the watch can run autonomously for 216 hours. Crafted to a no-compromise standard, it bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Now housed in an ethical 18-carat rose gold case, measuring a mere 39 mm in diameter, could this be the best iteration of the L.U.C Quattro to date? Mark McArthur-Christie shares his thoughts.
Image – Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV available in a choice of platinum or ethical 18-carat rose gold
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – the fourth generation
Sometimes, all it takes is a few apparently small changes to make something right. That’s ‘right’ in the sense of ‘just so’; the sort of right that makes you give a little nod and a smile. It’s the sort of right that applies to Bristol 410s, Yamaha SG-3000S guitars, NAD 3020s and anything whatsoever designed by Dietrich Lubs. Now the Chopard L.U.C Quattro is firmly on the list too.
Image – four generations of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro
We should be fair here – since its launch in 2000, each of the Quattro’s three previous iterations haven’t exactly been watches you’d turn your nose up at. But the Mk IV, perhaps appropriately, is bang-on. Everything comes together; the execution of the case, the design of the dial, proportions and that movement…
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – subtle changes
Typically for Chopard, the changes are subtle. You have to look for most of them and know the previous incarnations, but it will have taken a significant amount of effort to bring them together and produce the overall effect of a new, mature watch.
Image – Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV in platinum Ref 161954–9001
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – dial
The most obvious change is dialside. The Quattro’s trademark has always been – thanks to its range of Calibre L.U.C 98.XX-L movements – a power reserve indicator at twelve. With this latest variant of the L.U.C 98.01-L movement, the L.U.C 98.09-L, the dial is cleared for the time and date alone. The power indicator is still there, you just have to turn the watch over to see it as it now resides on the movement. Along with paring the dial furniture back to simple herringbone hour markers (rather than Roman numerals) and using a frosted, galvanised dial with no guilloché or ornament, the watch is far cleaner and exudes a more classical appearance.
There’s plenty of visual interest there too with the concentric-grained minute track echoing the sub seconds/date indicator and contrasting with the dial’s texture. A neat piece of the design is the way the broken 6 o’clock baton is carried on by the 30 second subdial marker.
All in all, it’s more pared back than the earlier MkIII with its heavy appliqué Roman numerals, large sub-dial at 6 and power reserve indicator at 12. It feels more as though it takes its DNA from the original Quattro rather than its successors.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – case
It’s been interesting watching the Quattro’s case change over the last 25 years. Starting out at 38 mm with smooth, fared-in lugs, a stepped-in bezel and straight case sides, we’ve seen it push out to a significantly more substantial 43 mm before returning now to a very wearable 39 mm. The Mark IV case is a new shape, a little slimmer (just over 10 mm) and with a narrower base so it’ll fit even those of more willowy-wristed proportions. The case finishing is tastefully restrained with vertical satin-brushing on the sides. Upholding high watchmaking tradition, the lugs are cut separately before being welded to the case, imbuing the case with an elegant and harmonious aesthetic. Again, shades of the MkI Quattro’s style.
The crown, however, is entirely new – fluted, ridged and easy to use. Chopard describes the new case design as ‘…in line with the L.U.C collection’s latest aesthetic codes’, so we can expect to see similar themes in other new models.
It’s not all aesthetics though, there’s some thoughtful engineering going on too. We’ve mentioned the welded lugs, but flip the watch over and look at the sapphire case back. The case is 18-carat rose gold, perhaps not the sort of material you want to go at with a steel caseback opener. Instead, the Manufacture has opted for a screw-on, rather than a screw-in, caseback. That’s much less likely to result in caseback opener accidents and – as we’ve mentioned before – avoids undue torsion on the caseback seal.
Chopard L.U.C Calibre 98.09-L
It’s impossible to talk about a Quattro without mentioning the engine. The L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L manages to combine Poinçon de Genève-worthy finishing with an utter beast of a powertrain. It’s what would have happened if Mercedes had asked a watchmaker to translate the Mercedes-Benz M198 3.0 straight six that powered the 300SL Gullwing into movement form.
A total of nearly 2 m of mainsprings, split across four barrels running in series, means you can get away with winding your Quattro only three-and-a-bit times each month. It also means a more precise movement because the energy from the four barrels is more evenly distributed. With a linear supply of energy serving the escapement, the rate is more stable and the amplitude more consistent; the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L basically laughs at COSC testing while kicking back and calling for a third Martini. Precision is helped along with a Phillips terminal curve. By bending the balance spring’s outer coil and curving it over the rest of the spring, the watchmaker avoids the real-world eccentricity of the spring and the consequent strain on the balance pivots. The result is a balance spring that breathes more concentrically, enhancing isochronism (precision).
In thoroughly L.U.C-like style, the Quattro’s movement also hacks and uses a swan neck index for fine adjustment of the balance spring’s active length to make the watch run faster/slower.
The Series 98.XX has been around a while now – 25 years – and has powered not just the eponymous watch but the L.U.C Quattro Tourbillon, L.U.C Regulator and L.U.C All-in-One models and even a jump-hour L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 .With rather splendid understatement, Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele says:
The L.U.C Quattro model demonstrating Chopard’s technical prowess is the fruit of several years dedicated to the pursuit of precision, innovation and creativity in the field of Haute Horlogerie”.
As you’d expect from a watch bearing the Poinçon de Genève, the movement, comprising 215 components, encompasses a multitude of finishes, including chamfering, satin-brushing, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève. This level of attention extends not only to what is visible but also to those components buried beneath the movement’s bridges, positioned out of sight. Ultimately, everything is individually tested and hand-assembled in the Manufacture’s workshops.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – strap-changing system
Chopard has even thought about the strap-changing system. No more faffing about with springbar pliers (complete with the risk of taking a lump out of the lugs). Instead there’s a fixed titanium spring bar attached to the case onto which the strap is securely locked. To change a strap, just slide the ridged button with the strap at an angle and it lifts off without fuss. To reattach your strap, just lineup the end of the strap with the spring bar and press it down until you hear a click. A few other makers could learn a thing or two from this sort of simplicity.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV – closing remarks
It’s been quite the journey for the Chopard L.U.C Quattro since the first version came off the bench in Fleurier; different case sizes, designs, dial configurations and complications. But this one might just be the best yet.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV
- Reference: 161954-5001
- Case: ethical 18-carat rose gold, diameter 39.00 mm, height 10.40 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, date at 9 o’clock, power-reserve indicator on the bridge side, stop-seconds function.
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 98.09-L, hand-wound movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 38 jewels, power reserve 216 hours, certified-chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève hallmark.
- Strap: Interchangeable hand-sewn strap in blue alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching, or brown calfskin with beige stitching. The strap secures to the wrist with a pin buckle in ethical 18-carat rose gold.
- Price: £34,600 (RRP as of 6.6.2025)