Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is a recent addition to the brand’s extensive catalogue, made to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture. Consistent with other models produced at the company’s Fleurier facility, the watch is blessed with an array of technical virtues and a prepossessing appearance. Angus Davies looks closely at this shining example of Haute Horlogerie.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – essential viewing
When I was a young boy, I would sit with my parents and watch television. They would select one of the three channels that were available at the time and we would spend the evening immersed in a monochromatic world. Today, there are numerous TV channels to choose from, all presented in high-definition colour. On the face of it, this may imply progress, however, I would argue that we are now overwhelmed with too many channels, many of which lack any substance. Quite simply, it is increasingly difficult to separate essential viewing from banal drivel.
In today’s world, we are bombarded with superfluous data. This sometimes impairs our ability to distinguish between the essential information we need and the meaningless noise which blights everyday life.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – jumping hour
Chopard, the esteemed Manufacture, has clearly recognised that most watch obsessives seek a timepiece that shows time in a succinct, intelligible format. The new Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, the company’s first jumping-hour model, frames the prevailing hour within an aperture with the minutes indicated using a lone centrally-positioned hand. There are no annoying distractions, just a concise dose of essential information.
In a short while, I will return to the composition of this watch, however, I think it is important to explain how Chopard arrived at this point.
Chopard Manufacture – 25th anniversary
In 1996, Chopard embarked on an ambitious journey, opening its own Manufacture. While most companies at the time procured movements from third-party specialist firms, the luxury Maison craved more independence, wishing to compete in the rarefied heights of Haute Horlogerie.
Chopard chose to open its new Manufacture in Fleurier, a municipality within the Val-de-Travers region. This was a bold move at the time as many rival firms were still licking their wounds following the quartz crisis.
Chopard Calibre L.U.C 1.96
The brand’s inaugural movement, the Calibre L.U.C 1.96 (now called the Calibre 96.01-L), was enriched with a plethora of smile-inducing delights. It was endowed with a micro-rotor, two stacked barrels, sublime finishing and met the stringent requirements of the Poinçon de Genève. The advent of this refined movement signalled the brand’s intention to make peerless exemplars of Haute Horlogerie.
Over the years, Chopard has repeatedly indulged purists with a myriad of new movements, some of which encompass innovations such as the firm’s patented Quattro® technology. In addition, the Manufacture has released a plethora of complications and pioneered the use of ethically sourced noble metals.
Despite the prestigious marque winning numerous prizes and receiving plaudits from the world’s watch press, it has never ceased in its quest for continuous improvement. Today, Chopard L.U.C timepieces are held in the highest esteem by the cognoscenti. Indeed, those three letters, L.U.C, presented on the flank of each crown, have become a symbol of horological excellence.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – jumping hour – grand feu enamel dial
The dial of the new Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is presented in white grand feu enamel. The beauty of the dial’s spotless complexion won’t diminish with the onset of years. Indeed, grand feu enamel doesn’t fade but exhibits an everlasting youthful appearance.
While most companies outsource the making of a grand feu enamel dial, Chopard has different ideas. In this instance, the dial is ‘crafted by the enamel Artisan of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier’, once again demonstrating the Maison’s predilection for independence. Later, I will provide details of making a grand feu enamel dial.
An aperture located at the base of the dial reveals the prevailing hour. It consists of black Arabic numerals positioned atop a white disc. The aperture is framed with a golden border, drawing the wearer’s eyes to the hour value and providing a means of demarcating the white hour disc from the main dial epidermis.
A gilded Dauphine fusée minute hand emanates from the centre of the dial and collaborates with a crisp chemin de fer to lucidly impart meaning. A minute track sits beyond the chemin de fer and employs Arabic numerals presented in double-digit form.
Ordinarily, I would wax lyrical about dials that incorporate numerous levels, masterfully playing with depths in order to augment eye-appeal. However, the dial found on the Quattro Spirit 25 is billiard-table smooth, thereby imbuing the horological vista with a becoming unsullied appearance.
This regulator-type display says much with just a few words. Originally, regulators were used as a point of reference when setting other clocks or watches. However, in this instance, it provides the means to impart the essentials of time in a highly intelligible format.
Making a grand feu enamel dial
Everything starts with an ethical 18-carat rose gold base or dial blank. Feet are attached to the underside of the base. Ultimately, once the dial is completed, the feet will be used to affix the dial to the movement.
Enamel is made from what is essentially crushed glass applied in powder form. The dial blank is dipped in an alcohol-based liquid and the enamel powder is then dusted onto the top and underside. The alcohol helps the powder adhere to the blank until the firing process melts and fuses it with the base and other layers.
A base layer is applied to the blank, both to the upper surface and the underside, despite this not being seen. The reason for applying a layer to both sides of the dial is to prevent the gold blank from buckling during the firing process. The oven usually operates at about 820°C, but temperatures can vary depending on the type of enamel used. The firing time is not defined but based on the artisan’s experience. Once the dial is removed from the oven it is allowed to cool.
Thereafter, the blank is dusted again with the ground enamel powder and the firing process is repeated. The dials are subjected to several firings. At this point, 60 – 70% of dials don’t make the grade, only the finest dials are cherry-picked. There may be tiny inclusions but these are indicative of the dial’s handmade nature. After inspection, each selected dial is polished and filed.
The brand’s name, minute markers, etc are subjected to another firing. The artisan then uses a piece of carbon to flatten the surface, taking care not to damage the dial. Lastly, the dial is trimmed precisely, again exercising great care to avoid harming it as the surface is quite brittle.
As I have shown, the making of a grand feu dial is a lengthy process with a relatively low production yield. The production of dials cannot be industrialised as the skills and techniques preclude such an approach. Needless to say, the dials are expensive, however, they confer several desirable qualities. In particular, a grand feu dial has a wonderful depth to its appearance. Furthermore, the dial won’t age with the passage of time.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – case
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 measures 40 mm in diameter and has a case thickness of 10.3mm. When compared with its contemporaries, these dimensions are comparatively modest and, therefore, the watch should suit the majority of wrist sizes. Chopard has always had a knack for making watches blessed with sublime ergonomics. Close examination of the lugs reveals they are short and arc sharply downwards, enticing the strap to envelop the wrist.
Chopard has chosen to house this model in ethical 18-carat rose gold. This noble material delivers a high quotient of luxury while paying due consideration to the environment as well as the social conditions of those individuals responsible for its mining.
The bezel and caseback are highly polished, however, the caseband is adorned with vertical satin brush finishing. The juxtaposing of both finishes tempers the flamboyance of the gleaming surfaces while enlivening the shy temperament of the vertically brushed surfaces. Once again, Chopard has judged everything to perfection.
A reoccurring characteristic common to most L.U.C models is the vertical satin brush it often applies to the caseband. While the Maison now offers a vast portfolio of models, it invariably employs a common design language. This consistent approach means that watches continue to look applicable in the present day even if they are subsequently updated or removed from the brand’s catalogue.
Chopard has employed curves on the caseband, a detail which was inspired by pocket watches made by Louis-Ulysse Chopard during the 19th century. The crown is highly polished, features a crimped grip and sports the L.U.C logo on its vertical flank.
The watch is fitted with an exhibition caseback, affording views of the hand-wound movement, the L.U.C 98.06-L. The tactile joy of this timepiece is heightened with its sumptuous strap which is formed of brown hand-sewn alligator leather. It is lined with a contrasting cognac-coloured alligator leather and sports an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.
Chopard Calibre L.U.C 98.06-L
The Calibre L.U.C 98.06-L is a hand-wound movement comprised of 240 components, including 42 jewels. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Remarkably, the movement has a prodigious power reserve of 192 hours (8 days).
The reason why this movement can run autonomously for such a remarkable length of time is because of Chopard’s exclusive Quattro® technology. This system employs four barrels, comprising two sets of two stacked barrels, that send power via the gear train to the escapement. Most watches have one barrel, occasionally two, hence four barrels is very unusual.
By using four barrels, the power sent to the escapement is more consistent, ensuring the amplitude remains relatively constant, culminating in high levels of chronometric performance. Indeed, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is a certified chronometer (COSC), an independent assurance of the model’s extraordinary precision.
A trait common to all L.U.C models is exceptional movement finishing. The Calibre LUC 98.06-L perpetuates this reputation. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève with gleaming, polished chamfers and straight-grained sides. Following the removal of any machining marks, the mainplate is decorated with perlage. The jewels and screws sit within polished sinks. The upper surfaces of the sliding stud holder, swan neck regulator, the screws and the click are mirror-polished. The various engravings on the bridges are gilded.
The exacting standards found with this movement are independently audited by Poinçon de Genève Office. As part of the accreditation standard, the company is subjected to at least 12 audits per annum. Chopard must conform to strict criteria in order to feature the prestigious hallmark on its watches. One requirement of the standard is that four operations must be carried out in the canton of Geneva, hence the assembly, casing up, adjustment and testing of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 takes place at the brand’s Geneva HQ.
In order to preserve the uncluttered dial appearance, Chopard has positioned a power-reserve indicator to the rear of the watch which displays the available energy collectively held within the four barrels.
The balance is fitted with a swan-neck regulator, marked with ‘+’ and ‘-‘ symbols. By moving the index, the effective length of the hairspring is increased or decreased, altering the rate of the balance and making the watch run faster or slower. This particular design allows a trained watchmaker to finely tune the rate.
Lastly, the balance spring is fitted with a Phillips terminal curve. This ensures the balance spring breathes more concentrically, further aiding precision.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – closing thoughts
The grand feu enamel dial found on the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 draws upon the remarkable talents of an artisan blessed with rare skills. Likewise, the movement is wonderfully engineered, finished, assembled and regulated by a small team of seasoned professionals. Once again, Chopard’s personnel in Fleurier and Geneva have produced an exceptional piece of work that stands comparison with some of the finest timepieces to be found within the Haute Horlogerie market segment.
Some of watchmaking’s old guard have long histories sometimes dating back over 100 years. It is therefore quite remarkable that Chopard Manufacture, a firm that is just 25 years old, can compete within this rarefied environment. Over the years, Chopard has repeatedly shown that its initial movement, the Calibre L.U.C 1.96 wasn’t a ‘one-hit wonder’. Indeed, the firm has produced a large number of different complications, including some supremely technical grand complications.
Despite Chopard’s prolific work rate, producing numerous types of watches, it has shown a tendency to endow many of its models with the same design codes. For instance, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 incorporates a Dauphine fusée minute hand which also features on a number of the brand’s other models. Likewise, despite the caseband having distinctive curved sides, it is embellished with the same vertical satin brush found on many of its siblings. It is this consistency that courses through the veins of Chopard’s design department. This shared likeness should reassure potential buyers that each model will deliver a lasting allure that won’t diminish with the onset of age.
We are constantly bombarded with superfluous data set against a noisy backdrop of day-to-day life, therefore, simplicity and intelligibility are attributes that should be respected. The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is seemingly simple, imparting information with just a few words. However, behind its intelligible display, this watch is imbued with sublime craftsmanship and horological virtuosity that belies the model’s pure uncluttered appearance.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
- Reference: 161977-5001
- Case: Ethical 18-carat rose gold; diameter 40 mm; height 10.30 mm; sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Instantaneous hours display in a 6 o’clock aperture; central display of the minutes; power-reserve indicator on the back of the watch; balance-stop function enabling accurate adjustments
Movement: Calibre L.U.C 98.06-L; hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 42 jewels; power reserve 192 hours (8 days) - Strap: Brown alligator leather paired with a polished and satin-brushed pin buckle in ethical 18-carat rose gold
- Price: £39,000 (RRP as of 7.4.2021)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces