TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch is the latest pièce unique crafted by the Swiss avant-garde brand in support of the biennial auction. Based on the legendary Heuer Monaco first released in 1969, this latest creation is a horological tour-de-force that wonderfully demonstrates the Maison’s remarkable capabilities and its notable ambitions.
TAG Heuer chronograph experts since 1867
Founded in 1860, TAG Heuer has made numerous stopwatches and chronographs throughout its history and has been entrusted to time prestigious sporting events on many occasions. The company’s penchant for timing short periods of time can be traced back to 1867 when Edouard Heuer patented a means to improve the oscillating pinion. This latter device is a form of horizontal coupling that continues to be used in many chronographs today. It is prized for both its simplicity and reliability.
Project 99
Back in 1969, Heuer collaborated with Breitling, Buren and Dubois Dépraz to make the first self-winding chronograph movement. While some may argue that Seiko or Zenith were the first, the fact remains that Project 99, subsequently renamed the Calibre 11 at the time it was launched, was an incredible feat of engineering.
Heuer Monaco depuis 1969
As Project 99 neared completion, Jack Heuer, the consummate businessman, realised that Breitling, both his collaborator and competitor, would soon go head-to-head with his firm, offering the same movement. His saviour came in the form of a new water-resistant, square case made by Piquerez, a supplier to the Maison at the time. Heuer negotiated an exclusivity deal with the case specialist and the iconic Monaco was born.
Calibre Heuer TH20-00
Over the years, the Monaco has subtly evolved and has been executed in an array of colours and finishes. In 2016, the Swiss avant-garde firm released its finest chronograph movement to date, the Calibre Heuer 02. This movement, sometimes referred to as the Calibre TH20-00, is fully integrated and features a column wheel and vertical coupling, an arrangement that delivers stutter-free actuation of the chronograph and a super-smooth pushpiece action. Moreover, assuming the watch is fully wound, the Calibre TH20-00 will run autonomously for 80 hours. It remains a highly impressive engine that stands comparison with some of the finest chronograph movements on the market.
Image – Calibre Heuer 02 (Calibre TH20-00)
TAG Heuer – continuous improvement
Perhaps I sound like a broken record, but TAG Heuer has continuously improved its products throughout its history and especially in recent years. Indeed, the execution of dials, cases and straps has ascended to new heights, elevating the Maison to the same level as brands once considered more prestigious. With the addition of the Calibre Heuer 02, there is no question that the finest expressions of TAG Heuer ownership were produced just last week.
Only Watch – a glimpse at the future
Like many of its competitors, TAG Heuer has been a keen supporter of Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that raises funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. I have talked extensively about the charity in another article relating to an Only Watch creation should you wish to learn more about its work. Needless to say, the watch industry collectively shows its softer, caring side by supporting this worthy initiative.
The inaugural Only Watch auction was held in 2005. During the formative years of the event, brands would revisit existing models, sometimes changing the colour of a dial or perhaps using an alternative case material. However, for many companies the event has become a laboratory, creating wholly new, one-off models as a means of gauging the reaction of the watch-buying community. On several occasions, these innovative and often expensive creations have been released in non-limited form. If you ever wish to know where the watch industry is going in the future, Only Watch is a good place to look.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch – texturised titanium case
This year, the Swiss marque has released the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch. Instantly recognisable as a Monaco, this pièce unique veers of piste with its 41 mm ‘texturised titanium’ case. Reminiscent of meteorite in appearance, the material is said to exhibit a ‘stunning crystalised effect’ that enhances the ‘surface hardness to improve scratch resistance’.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch – full sapphire caseback
The dial is partially openworked which accentuates the counters as well as other dial elements, wonderfully playing with depths. To the rear of the watch, TAG Heuer has surpassed what we have all come to expect from an exhibition caseback. Usually formed of steel with a pane of sapphire crystal at its centre, this has been sufficient to satisfy the needs of the mechanically curious, myself included. However, TAG Heuer has gone much further, endowing the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch with a full sapphire caseback, proffering spectacular views of the movement within.
Carole Kasapi, TAG Heuer’s Movements Director
And what a movement it is. Carole Kasapi, TAG Heuer’s Movements Director, has worked closely with movement specialist Vaucher in Fleurier. Together, the two companies have co-developed the Calibre TH81-00, a rattrapante. Sometimes termed a split-seconds chronograph, the rattrapante is usually the preserve of Haute Horlogerie and in some instances comes with six-figure pricing.
TAG Heuer rattrapante
This model features two centrally positioned hands for measuring elapsed seconds, one positioned directly above the other, seemingly appearing as a lone hand. The top hand is the central chronograph hand and the lower hand is for the rattrapante. Most of the time, the hands run in synchrony, often appearing as one lone hand until the dedicated pushpiece for the rattrapante is pressed and the shy hand comes into view. This feature allows the wearer to measure a ‘split’. If the wearer presses the pushpiece again (located at 9 o’clock), the rattrapante hand will catch up with the chronograph hand and, once again, hide from view. Both the rattrapante and chronograph hands are positioned very close to one another in order to avoid any parallax error. Moreover, the immense forces at play need to be suitably managed, something TAG Heuer has clearly mastered.
Titanium movement and Haute Horlogerie finishing
The Calibre TH81-00 is ‘executed completely in titanium’, bestowing a featherlight mass. ln addition, TAG Heuer, working in collaboration with the ultra-high-end firm, Artime, makers of contemporary expressions of Haute Horlogerie, has enriched this charity watch with a myriad of sublime finishes, including black polishing, anglage, perlage, etc.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch – closing thoughts
One lucky bidder will go home with an exceptional creation. Time will tell whether a production version of the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Only Watch will ever be released. But, irrespective of whether this happens or not, this latest creation from TAG Heuer, once again showcases the firm’s remarkable capabilities and notable ambition.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch
- Reference: CBW2180.FC8321
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 41 mm, height 15.2mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, rattrapante
- Movement: Calibre TH81-00 – Rattrapante Chronograph, automatic movement
- Strap: black calfskin leather strap with sandblasted titanium butterfly folding clasp and safety push-buttons
- Price: to be auctioned at Only Watch (5.11.2023 – Geneva)