Chopard L.U.C Strike One Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C Strike One, unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022, delivers a lone chime with the passing of each hour. In this instance, the Genevan marque has chosen to shun conventional steel gongs in favour of a patented monobloc sapphire crystal gong, first seen on the prize-winning L.U.C Full Strike. Beyond its sonorous delights, this handsome exemplar of Haute Horlogerie is enriched with an impressive complement of qualities. Angus Davies takes readers on a fascinating journey of discovery.
Perceptions of time
I remember as a lad, the summer holidays lasted an eternity. Indeed, in my early teens, time seemed to wade through a sea of treacle, slow and ponderous. Now I’m a fiftysomething, time just appears to evaporate into the ether. The weeks feel like days and it seems there are fewer minutes in each waking hour.
A metronome for life
The Chopard L.U.C Strike One is equipped with a sonnerie au passage, striking the hour once in passing. This complication acts like a metronome for life, setting aside all perceptions of time and providing a calming soundtrack throughout the day. Suddenly, the tempo of life seems measured, composed and devoid of false impressions.
The history of chiming clocks and watches
Chiming clocks are thought to date back to the 16th century. They sometimes lacked hands, simply imparting time aurally. The chiming of bells has since provided an accompaniment to daily life in numerous cities, towns and villages throughout Europe and beyond. The primary difference between a striking clock/watch and a minute repeater is the latter complication employs a complex mechanism comprising racks and snails that ‘read’ the prevailing time and sound the hours, quarters and minutes on demand.
Striking watches and minute repeaters
Repeater watches as well as the finest striking watches ordinarily use steel gongs which are formed into a circular shape and then subjected to repeated heat and quenching cycles. Thereafter, the gongs are carefully filed until they produce a specific note clearly with an accompanying dulcet tone. Typically, a minute repeater will strike two gongs using two hammers.
Chopard produces both striking watches and minute repeaters with the latter type of chiming watch being more expensive due to the additional complexity. However, the Genevan Maison has broken with tradition by equipping both its striking and repeater watches with a patented monobloc sapphire crystal gong instead of the customary steel gongs. Initially, the unique sapphire crystal was fitted to the L.U.C Full Strike timepiece, the Manufacture’s first minute-repeater and the recipient of the ‘Aiguille d’Or’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017.
With a conventional minute repeater, the gongs are united with a ‘plot’ and secured to the movement and case. However, the patented monobloc sapphire crystal gong sits above the movement with the sound passing through the top of the watch, hence its quality and the power of the sound is not influenced by the case material.
Having developed the monobloc sapphire crystal gong for its inaugural minute repeater, Chopard has now applied its patented know-how to the L.U.C Strike One, a watch that fanfares each hour with a rich clear sound, free of harshness.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One – the striking mechanism
As stated earlier, the Chopard L.U.C Strike One strikes once every hour, however, the crown incorporates a pushpiece, allowing the wearer to switch the chiming mode on or off as desired. An aperture on the dial, positioned at 12 o’clock, partially reveals a two-tone disc that serves to show whether the watch is set to ‘chime’ or ‘silent’.
While the striking mechanism is the headline act, the movement encompasses an array of additional attributes worthy of mention.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One – Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L
The Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L is a self-winding movement equipped with a micro-rotor. Only a few brands have the necessary expertise to make a movement endowed with this small oscillating weight. One of the main challenges is to create sufficient inertia from the rotation of the micro-rotor to energise the mainsprings (this movement has two). However, since the release of its first L.U.C movement, the L.U.C 1.96 (now called the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L), Chopard has produced several models featuring a micro-rotor. By eschewing a full-sized oscillating weight and positioning a micro-rotor flush with the bridges, the resultant movement is thinner and affords superior views of the exquisite finishing.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One – Poinçon de Genève (applies to the whole watch)
In terms of finishing, the Chopard L.U.C Strike One is executed to a flawless standard with all signs of machining eradicated. Perlage, anglage, Côtes de Genève, polished jewel and screw sinks, mirror-polishing – the many types of embellishment employed proves breathtaking. The watch also bears the Poinçon de Genève, a revered standard, independently audited by TimeLab. The standards demanded by the Poinçon de Genève encompass the materials used, the quality controls in place, the finishing techniques employed as well as the high standards of accuracy synonymous with ‘the punch’.
Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L – other technical highlights
The movement is equipped with two barrels, providing 65 hours of autonomous operation. However, beyond this impressive power reserve, using two barrels instead of one provides a more consistent supply of torque to the escapement and regulating organ, granting superior chronometry.
Another refinement found on this movement relates to the hairspring which is fitted with a Philips terminal curve. This feature ensures the hairspring breathes more concentrically, enhancing isochronism. The Chopard L.U.C Strike One is certified as a chronometer by COSC, yet another form of independent scrutiny, upholding the Genevan Maison’s reputation for making highly precise timepieces.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One – the dial
Considering the complexity of the Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L, the dial, at first glance, appears quite simple. In some respects, it is simple, indicating the hours, minutes and seconds in a user-friendly format. However, look again and examine each constituent element.
Gilded dauphine fusée-type hour and minute hands, a style often favoured by the Maison, seemingly float above a hand-guilloché ‘central medallion’ endowed with a honeycomb motif. As previously mentioned, an aperture, indicating the status of the chiming mechanism (on/off), is located at 12 o’clock and framed with a golden ring,
A beautifully polished hammer, positioned at 1 o’clock, delivers a delightful dose of animation each hour as it strikes the monobloc sapphire crystal gong. Beneath the hammer, a soupçon of perlage can be seen. The hour track is snailed and adorned with applied gilded herringbone-type hour markers. Beyond the perimeter of the hour track is a traditional chemin de fer. Interestingly, this railway-type track is engraved onto the innovative sapphire crystal. Completing the inventory of functions is a snailed small seconds dial. The blend of textures and warm golden hues imbues this horological vista with a prepossessing appearance while remaining highly intelligible.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One – the case
Considering the Chopard L.U.C Strike One contains 275 movement components, its dimensions are surprisingly modest. Measuring 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.86 mm, the unassuming scale of this timepiece is the product of the brand’s engineering prowess. Having worn the watch, it sits comfortably on the wrist without any suggestion of chafing or gouging.
The watch is encased in ethical 18-carat rose gold. Incidentally, ethical gold is a responsible sourcing initiative introduced by the luxury brand a few years ago. The case unites a polished bezel and caseback with a vertical satin-brushed caseband. This is yet another example of Chopard adhering to its proven design language. Watch aficionados should take note that design consistency avoids obsolescence and as Chopard L.U.C devotees will no doubt attest, this Maison does consistency very well.
A hand-sewn grey alligator leather strap with matching lining completes this mellifluous ensemble.
Chopard L.U.C Strike One- closing thoughts
The Chopard L.U.C Strike One is a highly technical watch, chiming with the passing of each hour. This hourly ritual is accompanied by a mirror-polished hammer striking the innovative sapphire gongs, delivering a visual spectacle par excellence.
Despite its complexity, this is a timepiece that could easily be worn every day. The dial is simple to understand, the movement promises precision and the case is refreshingly modest in scale and comfortable to wear.
Beyond its beautiful appearance, the dial, case and movement are enriched with numerous well crafted details. The dial’s hand-guilloché ‘central medallion’ is the product of an artisan’s remarkable skill. Likewise, one case finish would have been simpler, but Chopard has repeatedly shown its mastery of juxtaposing two different finishes in close proximity. And, let’s not overlook the movement. Setting aside the mechanical virtuosity of the Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L, the finishing is flawless, an essential requirement for any watch bearing the Hallmark of Geneva.
While most of my article has made reference to this model’s impressive chronometric performance, time can also be viewed in a philosophical sense. Our perception of time, or rather the passage of time, can be influenced by our mood. For example, a car journey can stretch time to the point of extreme tedium. Likewise, as I mentioned earlier, our notion of time can be influenced by our age. However, the solo performance of the hammer striking the sapphire gong sweeps aside perception and confers logic. Every lone chime of the L.U.C Strike One serves as an accurate and charming reminder that time elapses at a constant rate.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C Strike One
- Reference: 161949-5001
- Case: Ethical 18-carat rose gold, diameter 40.0 mm, height 9.86 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chime/silence aperture at 12 o’clock, stop seconds function, chime in passing mechanism
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.32-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève
- Bracelet: Strap in hand-sewn grey alligator leather with grey alligator lining, pin buckle in polished and satin-brushed ethical 18-carat rose gold
- Price: £59,400 (RRP as of 16.10.2023)
- Limited Edition: 25 pieces