Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Watch Review
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2022. While watch aficionados may be familiar with chronographs equipped with a rattrapante, the Swiss marque has conceived a highly original variation on the theme, conceiving a GMT Rattrapante, described by the brand as a ‘World Premiere’ at the time of its launch. Angus Davies explores this new complication in forensic detail.
Parmigiani Fleurier and Guido Terreni
In January 2021, Parmigiani Fleurier announced the appointment of a new CEO, Guido Terreni. With the ink barely dry on his contract, the industry veteran wasted no time in making his mark. Indeed, just seven months later, at The Geneva Watch Days, Mr Terreni unveiled a new range of models, the Tonda PF collection.
The new collection comprises four models, including a two-hander with a date, a chronograph, an annual calendar and a split-seconds chronograph.
Clearly, Mr Terreni recognised the watch-collecting community’s unquenchable thirst for luxury sports watches. Several of the brands already competing in this segment were apparently struggling to meet demand, hence the introduction of the Tonda PF seemed eminently logical.
Since its launch, the Parmigiani Tonda PF has proved a roaring success, resulting in a backlog of orders. This is not a marketing-driven manipulation of the truth but rather the consequence of the brand’s limited production capacity. Indeed, Mr Terreni recently explained that the skills required to make a PF are not readily available off the shelf. On the contrary, it takes time to find suitable personnel and impart the necessary know-how to make these sublime expressions of high-end watchmaking.
The Tonda PF collection different mindset
To be honest, when I saw the Tonda PF Chronograph and Tonda PF Annual Calendar for the first time, I was immediately smitten. Also, my initial reaction on seeing the platinum rattrapante was that it was insanely gorgeous, but I felt the Tonda PF Micro Rotor, by comparison, seemed a tad plain. However, my first impressions were wrong. The Tonda PF Micro Rotor creeps up and slowly works its magic on you, seducing you with its pure lines, subtly patterned guilloché dial and its numerous facets and finishes.
One of the defining characteristics of the Tonda PF Micro Rotor is the absence of conspicuous branding. No swathes of marketing-fuelled text, just a simple ‘PF’ framed in an unfussy oval. And these character traits are palpable when handling any of the Tonda PF family. There’s a sense of calm and seemly understatement. Indeed, where some watches are the horological equivalent of the Ride of the Valkyries, the Tonda PF is more Clair de Lune.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – building on success
Recently, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled three additional Tonda PF models, a skeleton, a flying tourbillon, and, the focal point of this article, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. All of these models uphold the design language of the initial Tonda PF collection, but each reference also has its own personality.
Chatting to Guido Terreni, a man who is no stranger to an airport lounge, he explained that he wanted a watch with a part-time GMT function. When travelling, he wanted to see the local time and the home time simultaneously, but once home, he wanted the clean lines of a two-hander. While brainstorming on this third day in his role, he had the inspired idea of making a GMT Rattrapante. The facility to ‘catch up’ is nothing new, it has long been employed on chronographs, but it has never been seen before on a GMT. In fact, the Maison describes it as a ‘World Premiere’.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – ideal for the frequent flyer
Some frequent flyers require a watch with the capacity to display times in two or more locations, hence they often select a worldtimer. While I like some worldtimers, some examples can be a bit busy. Indeed, for those individuals who are myopically challenged, myself included, having to squint to read numerous place names, depicted on a bezel, can prove especially challenging.
An alternative option is the GMT watch, where the dominant hands display the ‘local time’ and a third hand displays the ‘home time’. However, save for the two weeks you spend at Disney World every year, you might not want that annoying third hand cluttering the dial.
As previously mentioned, the Parmigiani introduces a third way. Its part-time GMT can display the ‘local time’ and ‘home time’ on demand, but when the GMT function is not needed, the surplus hand hibernates behind the dominant hour hand, leaving a clean, uncluttered vista.
Just imagine you are on the ‘red-eye’ flight from JFK, you’re bleary-eyed and sleep-deprived. Suddenly, the idea of a watch with a dual-time function that is user-friendly, makes a lot of sense. The silver-toned, skeletonised Delta-shaped hour and minute hands display your home time. On arrival at your destination, press the pushpiece, located between 7 and 8 o’clock, and a rose gold hand comes into view. Each press of the pushpiece advances the gold hand one hour until the appropriate ‘local time’ is shown. When you eventually return home, you merely press the pushpiece set within the crown and the gold hand instantly jumps behind the dominant hour hand, hidden from view, silent and unassuming. No fiddling with the crown is necessary.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – dial
The dial of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is adorned with Grain d’Orge guilloché. Usually, this traditional pattern is larger in size and appears more heavily textured, however, in this instance, the Swiss Maison has elected for a softly-spoken interpretation of the motif with a smaller, finer ‘nap’. When chatting with Mr Terreni, he frequently employs the term ‘sartorially-influenced styling’, a characteristic which makes sense when looking at the Tonda PF models.
A series of silver-toned, applied indexes adorn the dial. They feature a sloping leading edge, guiding the onlooker’s gaze towards the bewitching weft of the ‘Milano Blue’ fabric-like dial. A minute track hugs the periphery of the display, presented on a smooth, blue circlet.
Just below noon, the ‘PF’ logo indicates the provenance of the watch and no more. In a world where we have become obsessed with brand names and conspicuous emblems, Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach is wonderfully refreshing. I suspect the aficionados drawn to this watch probably abhor conspicuous consumption and will appreciate the Swiss marque’s focus on product excellence rather than vulgar showiness.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – case
Measuring 40 mm in diameter, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante does not overwhelm the wrist. On the contrary, the shape of the watch head, lug design and integrated bracelet confers a pampering wrist-feel that should suit the majority of wearers. Moreover, the Swiss Manufacture has expended much effort on the bracelet which ergonomically flexes around the wrist.
Another characteristic of this watch is the repeated interplay between polished and brushed surfaces. The alternation between both types of finish can be found on other luxury watches, however, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken this to another level. For example, the lugs are comprised of several parts, each encompassing different finishes while the outside edge of the lugs features a bevelled edge that tapers in width.
As previously stated, the case and bracelet are stainless steel, while the bezel is made of platinum. Juxtaposing platinum and steel may sound strange, but it works beautifully. The platinum bezel emits a whitish gleam and softens the overall look of the watch. Consistent with other Tonda PF models, the appearance of the case is restrained, refined, unassuming but assured. Furthermore, the knurling on the bezel implores the wearer to touch its subtly ridged contours and, by default, provides a cathartic release from modern-day stress.
To the rear of the watch, four screws hold the case back in position. At the centre of the case back, a pane of sapphire crystal affords widescreen views of the self-winding movement.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – Calibre PF051
Parmigiani Fleurier has equipped this watch with the Calibre PF051, a Manufacture movement equipped with a micro-rotor, somewhat of a speciality of the Maison. The technical obstacle that must be surmounted in order to create a movement with a micro-rotor is generating sufficient inertia to wind the mainspring from a relatively small mass. Only a small number of brands have been able to master the micro-rotor but Parmigiani Fleurier has a long history of making movements incorporating this know-how. In this instance, the micro-rotor is made of 22ct rose gold and is adorned with Grain d’Orge guilloché.
The benefit of a micro-rotor is that it sits flush with neighbouring bridges, unlike a full-size oscillating weight which sits above the bridges. This helps mitigate the thickness of the movement, something that is manifest in the height of the Calibre PF051, measuring a slender 4.9mm. A further benefit of the micro-rotor is that nothing obscures the movement, thereby affording the wearer superior views of the beautifully finished bridges.
Michel Parmigiani, the founder of the company, has a background in restoring automata, clocks and watches. He cares passionately about longevity, hence has never looked at finishing as merely a means of making a movement look better. Indeed, Mr Parmgiani believes ‘finissage’ should also be about mitigating the risk of corrosion and preserving a watch’s appearance and performance over the long-term. Examples of finishing on this timepiece include the bridges which are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif, perlage adorning the main plate (visible adjacent to the micro-rotor) and hand-bevelling. In addition, the screws and jewels sit in polished sinks, a further indication of quality. The finissage is not limited to the parts that are on show, but also to surfaces beyond the view of the wearer.
Most watches are fitted with an index-regulator or raquette. The hairspring passes through two curb-pins positioned on the raquette and by moving this towards or away from the stud, the effective length of the hairspring changes, making the watch run faster or slower. However, the Calibre PF051 is fitted with a variable-inertia balance. This means the rate is adjusted by rotating four weights positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel which, in turn, alter the moment of inertia. The weights are placed in-board thereby producing less air turbulence which again enhances precision. A variable inertia balance is less susceptible to positional errors and delivers superior rate stability.
The frequency of the balance is 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement features 31 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the Calibre PF will run autonomously for 48 hours.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – closing thoughts
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is a purist’s watch that encompasses traditional craftsmanship and is perfectly suited to the present-day. Informed buyers will note the numerous subtle details, the considered design, the tactility of the case and the extraordinary ergonomic union between the watch and its wearer.
The idea of a part-time GMT indication was inspired, made all the more remarkable by the fact that Mr Terreni thought of it on his third day as CEO. The complication delivers functionality but when the third hand is not needed, it can be hidden from view, bestowing a clean, uncluttered dial.
Supply and demand have long been part of the economists’ vernacular but the words are now being used to describe the availability of some sports watches. I suspect some brands are manipulating levels of supply to increase demand. Certainly, some speculators, with no appreciation for Haute Horlogerie, are devouring stocks of sought-after models, hoping to make a quick profit. I hope these philistines leave the Tonda PF alone, allowing genuine horophiles to enjoy the many attributes of these watches. Quite simply, these timepieces are wonderful expressions of Haute Horlogerie that are beautifully made and infused with a remarkable quotient of craftsmanship.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
- Reference: PFC905-1020001-100182 (stainless steel case with platinum 950 bezel)
- Case: stainless steel with a platinum bezel, diameter 40 mm, height 10.7 mm, water resistance 6 ATM (60 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, split GMT
- Movement: Calibre PF051, self-winding movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 31 jewels, power reserve 48 hours, 207 components.
- Bracelet: Polished and satin-finished stainless steel bracelet with steel folding clasp
- Price: CHF 27,000 including VAT (RRP as of 15.9.2023)