Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen
The Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen displays the traditional timekeeping system, Shí Chen, with the customary depiction of hours and minutes using two co-axial hands. The watch encompasses Urushi lacquer and Maki-e and is endowed with a sublime self-winding movement, the calibre L.U.C 96.29-L.
In recent weeks, as a new Chinese New Year approaches, several prestigious watch brands have unveiled timepieces celebrating the Year of the Ox, the twelfth symbol of the Chinese Zodiac. Chopard has proved no exception, releasing the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox, a model I reported on at the time which featured a dial enriched with Urushi lacquer and Maki-e.
The Genevan Maison has now released another Chinese-themed watch, the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen. Again, the brand has engaged the services of Japanese firm, the Yamada Heiando company and its Master lacquer specialist, Minori Koizumi. This accomplished artisan has suffused the dial and a rotating disc (see later) with Urushi lacquer and Maki-e. However, where this model differs is that it does not show merely an Ox on the dial but all of the 12 signs of the Zodiac over a 24-hour cycle.
Unusually, the Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen displays the prevailing time via a crescent-shaped aperture at the top of the dial. The aperture reveals a new different animal every two hours, depicted on a rotating disc below. The Chinese day begins at 2300 hours with a Rat and then displays an Ox (0100 to 0300) hours, a Tiger (0300 hours – 0500 hours) etc. In addition, the dial is embossed with the emblem of the god Lu Ying.
The aforementioned complication is paired with conventional dauphine-type hour and minute hands, beautifully crafted in ethical 18-carat rose gold. Indeed, this noble metal abounds, featuring on the indexes, the central symbol of prosperity and, most notably, the sumptuous 40mm case. However, rest assured, everything remains elegant and tasteful.
Chopard has equipped this model with the calibre L.U.C 96.29-L, a variant of the tried and trusted 96 family of movements. Endowed with a micro-rotor, the movement measures a mere 3.97mm in height. Moreover, it is executed to an impressively high standard, with peerless finishing, much in evidence.
The brand’s press release
Carved from a block of ethical 18-carat rose gold, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen is a talisman timepiece, an allegory of beliefs related to the Chinese zodiac and luck. It represents the first time that an Haute Horlogerie watch displays Shí Chen, the traditional Chinese time system, as a complication. It consists of twelve two-hour units, each one represented by an animal from the zodiac cycle. The day thus begins at 11pm with the hour of the Rat and ends with the hour of the Pig, while noon is in the middle of the hour of the Horse.
The Chinese zodiac bestiary enhanced by the art of Urushi
The procession of 12 animals slowly parades through a large aperture at 12 o’clock, enabling a dual time read-off: one traditional and the other based on the international system. This succession of zodiac signs also underlines the creativity and mastery of the Chopard Manufacture artisans. In addition, the dial and Shí Chen disc of this timepiece are made of Japanese lacquer. Faithful to Asian traditions, Chopard has worked right from the start with the finest Japanese lacquer artisans, who craft dials using the traditional Urushi lacquer technique.
The 88 dials of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen are produced by the workshops of the century-old Yamada Heiando company and crafted by Master lacquer specialist Minori Koizumi. In accordance with the distinctive Maki-e technique, gold flakes sprinkled between the layers of lacquer illuminate the 40 mm ethical 18-carat rose gold case from within.
A creation placed under the protection of the god of prosperity
At the centre of the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen dial is the golden, embossed emblem of the god Lu Ying, who is one of the three deities – together with Fu Xing and Shou Xing – respectively dedicated to prosperity, happiness and longevity, symbolically summing up the characteristics of a full life. This star of prosperity also refers to fame and influence and is an omnipresent sign in Chinese culture, where auspices, symbols and representations playing on the nature of ideograms are essential.
A timepiece endowed with great technical refinement
To equip the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen, Chopard has created the L.U.C 96.29-L calibre, an exclusive variation of the 96 family, featuring a disc that completes a full rotation in 24 hours. This mechanical movement with automatic winding is just 3.97 mm thick thanks to its micro-rotor, a small oscillating weight neatly integrated into the calibre. Made of ethical 22-carat gold, it boasts high inertia enabling it to wind the two barrels efficiently. The latter are stacked in accordance with Chopard Twin Technology and are capable of storing the energy necessary for the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen to offer a total 65-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist, it will remain on time and accurate for more than two and a half days, the duration of a long weekend.
Chopard’s in-house approach to Haute Horlogerie
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The manufacturing stages of L.U.C. timepieces are carried out in-house at its production sites in Geneva and Fleurier.
Movement development, finished product design, gold casting, stamping and cases machining, movement parts and bracelets, as well as traditional handcrafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and involved in the making of each creation in the L.U.C collection.
The result of meticulous craftsmanship, Chopard’s exceptional L.U.C timepieces meet the aspirations of today’s gentleman, speaking to him without the slightest artifice or pretention, and unequivocally conveying an ideal blend of artisanal skill and emotions.
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