Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF is housed in a 40 mm case formed of ethically certified ‘Fairmined’ 18-carat white gold and is paired with a gorgeous blue-grey dial. Consistent with previous versions of the watch, the crown, dial and movement are offset by 30 degrees, conferring an unusual, yet becoming charm.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – a break with convention
If you task a child with drawing a picture, they will invariably draw a yellow circle with a smiling face and sun rays encircling its form. Furthermore, people will be depicted with round heads, with sticklike torsos and houses will have four windows, a front door and a smoking chimney. The fact is, their artistic efforts are notably predictable.
In the world of watch design, a timepiece will often feature a date aperture at 3 o’clock with a crown positioned adjacent and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. Over the years, this has become the accepted convention.
Likewise, cars often subscribe to a formulaic style. However, consider the iconic Porsche 911. It sets aside convention, positioning the boot to the front and the engine to the rear. Few cars can surpass its aesthetic prowess.
Similar to the Porsche 911, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF incorporates the usual elements of a timepiece but navigates its own route to success. The crown and small seconds are skewed, sitting in positions seldom inhabited. The resultant mien is fresh and thought-provoking.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – my hands-on evaluation
In 2019, the brand revisited the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF, this time housing it in an ethically certified ‘Fairmined’ 18-carat white gold case coupled with a refined blue-grey dial. However, its beauty is more than skin deep. Indeed, this timepiece is equipped with the Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L, a self-winding movement incorporating a micro-rotor, and certified by COSC and the Fleurier Quality Foundation. Its credentials are beyond reproach.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – dial
The Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF incorporates some of the elegant design elements found on other L.U.C models. The Dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands are executed with a rhodium-plated finish. They have a stepped profile, exuding grace while enunciating the prevailing time with veritable efficiency.
Each hour is marked with a faceted and tapered, triangular index. At noon, double triangular indexes proclaim the midnight hour. Subscribing to convention, the date is proclaimed at 3 o’clock. Upholding horological etiquette, the date is depicted on a blue-grey disc, matching the hue of the main dial epidermis.
Sitting between 7 and 8 o’clock, the asymmetric positioning of the small seconds display represents this model’s first idiosyncrasy. Conversely, the Dauphine-fusée seconds hand and snailed detail respectfully perpetuate the tried and trusted L.U.C design language.
Often watch dials feature a sunburst motif, typically emanating from the centre of the dial. However, the motif on some L.U.C models emanates from the brand’s nomenclature positioned below noon, conferring a subtle, yet tasteful deviation from the norm. In this instance, the sunburst pattern originates from the small seconds display and rather than straight rays, the motif is presented in circular form.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – case
While the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF renounces some conventions, it respects others. In particular, this watch does not engage in outlandish behaviour, choosing instead to employ tasteful tones and understated aesthetics.
The case is formed of ethically certified ‘Fairmined’ gold. This noble metal is ‘responsibly sourced from artisanal mining cooperatives, where both the environment and miners are treated correctly, and to which Chopard pays a premium to be reinvested in community projects.’ The Maison is the ‘main global purchaser’ of ‘Fairmined’ gold.
The case measures a modest 40 mm in diameter and is slender with a thickness of 7.7 mm. This watch does not overwhelm the wrist, nor does it flamboyantly proclaim the wearer’s wealth. Indeed, such crass conduct is not consistent with the refined manner of this noble timepiece.
Maintaining the ‘twist’ theme, the crown is located at 4 o’clock. Not only is this aesthetically interesting, but it also mitigates the risk of the crown chafing the skin or impinging free movement. Perhaps more watch brands should consider this location for the crown? The brand’s ‘L.U.C’ nomen adorns the vertical flank of the crown.
The caseband subscribes to L.U.C tradition, featuring a muted vertical satin-brush. This treatment extends to the vertical surfaces between the lugs. All remaining surfaces are highly polished. The watch is supplied with a hand-sewn, blue-grey alligator leather strap that’s lined with Cognac-toned alligator leather and paired with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle.
An exhibition caseback provides views of the self-winding movement, the Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L
Chopard’s L.U.C brand is synonymous with high-end watchmaking. The Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L reinforces this reputation.
The slender movement measures just 3.3 mm in thickness. However, despite its compact dimensions it is packed with numerous attributes, including the micro-rotor formed of 22-carat gold. Only a small number of brands offer self-winding movements equipped with a diminutive rotor of this type. One benefit of a micro-rotor is that, unlike a conventional oscillating weight, it does not obscure the views of the bridges, wheels, etc. More pertinently, the micro-rotor sits flush with adjacent bridges, mitigating the depth of the movement and, by default, the height of the watch.
The Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L features two barrels which collaborate to deliver 65 hours of autonomy. The balance oscillates to a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and the movement contains 29 jewels.
Moreover, beyond its technical virtues, this movement is beautifully finished. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and feature gleaming bevels. A sea of perlage resides beneath the micro-rotor. The bridges are engraved with golden text and the jewel and screw sinks are polished, evincing a brilliant gleam.
Fleurier Quality Foundation
The Fleurier Quality Foundation (Fondation Qualité Fleurier) is a ‘haute horlogerie quality certification’. The stringent requirements and exhaustive tests are widely considered the most challenging within the watch industry.
Firstly, the watch head, excluding the strap or bracelet, must be ‘Manufactured 100% in Switzerland’. While many so-called Swiss watches contain a percentage of Chinese components, the exacting requirements of the FQF are unequivocal.
Thereafter, the ‘movement must have a finish of exclusive aesthetic quality’. This outlines the finish required for the movement and its decoration. The criteria includes the materials used and the means of execution ie mechanical or manual techniques are permissible but not ‘operations carried out in bulk’. In particular, the ‘decoration must be visible on the maximum thickness of the plate or on the visible part of the bridge, as well as in the main recesses. No visible burrs must be present and the functional zones of the steel parts must be polished. The shaped parts must be bevelled, polished, and where technically possible have lines drawn out with file strokes.’
A representative sample of watches is subjected to the Chronofiable test. The sample size is determined by the number of models produced in a series. In the case of the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF, a limited edition of 250 pieces, 20 watch heads will have be submitted for testing.
The Chronofiable test includes an ‘ageing cycle’, where ‘test cycles designed to measure the pull-and-push forces on the stem’ are carried out. On chronographs, this includes measuring the forces exerted on the pushbuttons. In addition, tests are conducted on the susceptibility to magnetic fields and shocks and, lastly, water resistance.
All 250 movements will be submitted for chronometer testing (COSC). These tests are performed in static conditions over a 15 day period and at different temperatures. The movement is not cased while being tested.
Finally, the watch, in its cased-up form, is subject to the Fleuritest. This involves placing the watch on a robotic simulator for a 24-hour test period. The machine is said to recreate the movements of a nycthemeral cycle. This is where the robot simulates the wearing of a watch as the individual partakes in a series of physical activities such as slowly walking as well as engaging in both ‘active and extremely active phases’. This simulation provides a real-world measurement of the watch’s precision. The watch ‘must fall within the range of 0 to +5 seconds per day’.
The fact that the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF fulfils the exacting criteria of the Fondation Qualité Fleurier stands testament to its finish, robustness and precision.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF – closing thoughts
I have always had a profound respect for the Chopard L.U.C brand. The exalted standards of its watches justly stand in comparison with some of the most revered practitioners of Haute Horlogerie. Moreover, I also appreciate the brand’s unassuming character. One is drawn to L.U.C models because of their intrinsic excellence, sophistication and poise. They are the antithesis of ‘bling’, designed to be admired by the wearer not foolishly flaunted in a misplaced effort to vaunt wealth.
The dial, with its off-centre sunburst motif, exhibits a charming grace. Each dial component is delicate and subtle. The skewed position of the small seconds display provides a distinctive look, brimming with style.
The 18-carat ‘Fairmined’ gold case has a neutral quality, allowing the dial to come to the fore. Measuring 40 mm in diameter, with a case height of 7.7 mm, the case does not overwhelm the wrist. Everything appears hushed and restrained. The siting of the crown at 4 o’clock is yet another delightful touch which proves attractive and practical.
At the heart of the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF is a sublime movement. Technical virtue coexists with peerless finishing. Furthermore, the independent award of Fleurier Quality Foundation certification provides would-be owners with the necessary assurance that their watch has satisfied an extremely stringent set of criteria.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF subscribes to the design philosophy of the Maison while repositioning some elements with an endearing twist. Chopard has viewed a watch from a different perspective, abandoned protocol and conceived a wholly original design. This philosophy will resonate with the owners of the Porsche 911, a car which tore up the rule book for the delectation of petrolheads. Based on my hands-on experience with the L.U.C XPS Twist QF, I can easily imagine this Chopard timepiece successfully emulating the iconic status of said Swabian thoroughbred.
Further reading
Video
Technical specifications
- Model: Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF
- Reference: 161945-1001
- Case: ethical white gold, diameter 40 mm, height 7.7 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to the front and caseback
- Functions: hours minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.26-L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours.
- Strap: Hand-sewn blue-grey alligator strap paired with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle
- Price: £20,100 (RRP as of 20.8.2023)
- Limited Edition: 250 pieces