Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Watch Review
The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition perpetuates a story that began in 1988 when the Swiss marque became the ‘World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the Mille Miglia’. Sporting a salmon-coloured dial, wrapped in a Lucent Steel body and powered by a high-performance engine, there is much to like about this limited edition creation. US-based Marcus Henry explores this timepiece, a model crafted for those individuals who appreciate the importance of power.
The Most Beautiful Race
There’s nothing, so they say, quite like driving the Mille Miglia. The most famous 1000 miles in motorsport was once a dangerous and terrifying pursuit. Today, it is almost sedate by comparison, with cars navigating the route set against a backdrop of exquisite architecture and beautiful countryside, all wonderfully tinged with a rosy-hued sense of nostalgia and adventure.
Following a tragic accident in 1957, the Mille Miglia became a calmer ‘regularity race’ with every competitor aiming to reach each checkpoint within a specific timeframe. This approach, focused on maintaining a precise average speed over each section of the route, means that the role of the race’s official timekeeper is perhaps even more important than that of equivalent roles in, say, F1. Time is of the essence… just in a different way.
The prestigious role of Official Timekeeper has been held by Chopard since 1988. The luxury marque has created numerous models that bear the name of the most beautiful race; a collection of watches that has become an important pillar of the brand’s product portfolio. This year, Chopard is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its Mille Miglia GTS collection with the new 2025 Race Edition, limited to just 250 pieces.
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition – Lucent Steel
For those of you whose vocabulary, like mine, doesn’t often extend to words that originated in the late 1400s, the Oxford Dictionary defines ‘Lucent’ as ‘glowing with or giving off light’. Though the word may be a little antiquated, it is an apt description for the special alloy that makes up this watch’s case. It was developed by Chopard, who also conceived the metal’s distinctive name.
When handling the new GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition, the first thing you will notice is the silky-smooth feel of the steel. Lucent Steel is crafted from 80% recycled material with a special emphasis on both performance and luminance. Moreover, the metal is harder than regular stainless steel and is hypoallergenic. It seems you can have your cake and eat it too when you’re at Chopard’s table.
That might sound like rather effusive praise on my part, but if I’m being honest, I think this is an exceptionally underrated material. Why is it that developments in ceramics – mostly colour – are praised to the sky, but innovative and beautiful metallic alloys like this one receive little to no attention?
In any case, the material is shown off to splendid effect with a lovely array of finishes: brushed lugs, prominent crown guards, mirrored on top and brushed on the sides, and flanks that evince an almost mirror-like quality. It makes for a dazzling display of light in contrasting textures, heightened by the innate shine of the Lucent Steel.
As a final note, the case does clock in at a rather voluminous 43 mm in diameter, but its dimensions feel sporty and legible without consuming your entire wrist. Sure, you won’t ever be slipping it under a shirt cuff… but it wasn’t made for that. It’s a tool watch for the gentleman driver and one that because of its size is able to provide a clear and legible way of telling time.
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition – dial
This dial is exceptionally well-done. Everything is large and legible and the execution is superb. Indeed, Chopard has imbued the dial with a sumptuous blend of textures. For example, the central area of the dial is circular satin-finished, the small seconds display is adorned with pronounced snailing, while the power-reserve features a comparatively smooth recessed track. This marriage of textures is lovely.
I’m also extraordinarily fond of the way the power reserve, designed to resemble a fuel gauge, nestles between 8 and 10. Counterbalancing this indicator, you’ll find the iconic Mille Miglia logo directing your eye towards the date display, situated at 3. If I’m being honest, I would have preferred the aperture to be framed with a bit of brightwork, albeit I concede it’s a matter of personal taste.
Two large, facetted hands, each filled with black lume, prove eminently legible, whether it’s day or night. Even though they seem large when viewed in isolation, the hands are balanced when positioned adjacent to the plump hour markers. Ultimately, every part of the dial appears perfectly sized, delivering excellent legibility and notable style.
Chopard in-house 01.02-M calibre
A watch movement is often a true indicator of quality and the movement inside the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 does not disappoint. The Chopard in-house 01.02-M calibre first burst onto the watch scene in 2012, powering the Superfast Power Control. Crafted at the company’s Fleurier Ebauche facility, this self-winding movement was hugely impressive at the time of launch and its appeal has never diminished.
The Chopard 01.02-M calibre features a hacking seconds allowing the owner to synchronise the watch with a reference clock, perfect for monitoring the time between the Mille Miglia’s checkpoints or for simply arriving on time for the next board meeting. The movement has a power reserve of 60 hours, indicated by the ‘fuel gauge’ at 9, mentioned earlier.
The appearance of the movement differentiates it from many of its rivals. The traditional Côtes de Genève that invariably adorns bridges has been set aside in favour of an interesting openworked design. Slender apertures, arranged in parallel lines, grant partial views of various components below. The design looked futuristic in 2012 and it continues to look fresh, modern and decidedly different. Rather than the silvery tones of rhodium-plating, the Chopard 01.02-M calibre is presented in a dark grey hue, punctuated with ebullient red text.
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition – strap
Even the best car is only as good as its tyres and the same is true of any luxury wristwatch. Well, not tires exactly, but rather their analog, the strap. Never fear, however, as Chopard has ensured that GTS Power Control is suitably attired (pun intended). The watch is presented on a black calfskin leather strap with racing-inspired perforations, along with nice tan stitching that echoes the dial’s salmon tones.
As it turns out, that tire analogy works better than you’d think here, as Chopard has lined the inside of the strap with rubber endowed with a pattern evoking the tread of a classic Dunlop racing tire. Lastly, the watch and strap are united with an engraved deployant buckle, bearing Chopard’s logo and crafted from the same lovely Lucent Steel as the case.
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition – closing remarks
Overall, I’m captivated with this lovely limited edition from Chopard, a watch befitting today’s ‘gentleman driver’. It’s an ideal companion for any man or woman who chooses to pilot their classic Ferrari around the gentle loops and bends of the Mille Miglia. Delivering accuracy and an abundance of charm, this watch won’t just serve you well over a thousand miles, but promises to be a trusty companion as you navigate life’s many highways.
Further reading
Technical Specification
- Model: Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control 2025 Race Edition
- Reference: 168638-3001
- Case: Lucent Steel, diameter 43 mm, height 11.43 mm, 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date, power-reserve indicator, stop-seconds function
- Movement: Chopard 01.02-M calibre, self-winding chronograph movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 36 jewels, power reserve of 60 hours, chronometer-certified (COSC).
- Strap: perforated black calfskin with rubber ‘tyre tread’ patterned lining paired with Lucent Steel™ deployant buckle
- Limited edition: 250 pieces
- Price: £6,540 (RRP as of 2.8.2025)