De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite Watch Review
The De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite is the latest addition to the brand’s DB28XP collection. The Manufacture, based in L’Auberson, in the Jura mountains, has created a horological dichotomy pairing their space-age looking case with a dial from one of the oldest substances known to man. Carl Eady delves into the world of De Bethune in order to reveal the secrets of the DB28XP Meteorite.
De Bethune depuis 2002
For the last 21 years, Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet and his team have delighted the independent watch scene with inimitable, inspirational and disruptive watch designs. A mastery of all things horological has seen the brand fuse cutting edge movement technologies and outrageous design with the utmost respect for the legendary watchmakers of yesteryear.
Naturally, a watchmaker who pushes creative boundaries will seek out the finest and rarest materials on the planet. Meteoroids are interstellar rocks which hurtle through space and usually break up on hitting the Earth’s atmosphere. Occasionally fragments of these rocks survive their journey and land on earth, with many laying undiscovered for millions of years. It is these fragments, known as meteorites, that have been a source of deep fascination to Flageollet, especially the ferrous kind. Deriving from the core of the original meteoroid, they are formed mainly from iron and nickel. These metallic elements lend themselves to De Bethune’s brand identity as they can be thermally oxidised to generate a rich blue hue, a colour so often seen in the brand’s titanium creations.
De Bethune has previously used meteorites to great effect in masterful pieces such as the ‘Dream Watch 5 Meteorite’ and ‘DB28 Kind of Blue Meteorite’. Once again, it is the allure of these celestial fragments that has proved irresistible to Flageollet and his team of artisans when creating this latest timepiece.
De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite case
In 2020, De Bethune celebrated the 10th anniversary of the DB28. To mark this milestone, the company created a slimmed down version of the iconic DB28 case and named it the XP. The DB28 XP sub-collection comprises of the DB28XP, the Tourbillon, the Starry Night and now the XP Meteorite.
The De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite, housed in an ultra-light case finished in matte black zirconium, sports the familiar 12 o’clock crown and the brand’s floating skeletonised lugs. De Bethune invented its unique lug system in 2006. The lugs are sprung and pivot around a central axis, thereby providing remarkable comfort for the wearer. Whilst the diameter of the watch is a considerable 43 mm, it wears comfortably, partly due to its modest 7.2 mm thickness and its extraordinary lug configuration. On the reverse, a solid anthracite zirconium caseback exhibits a circular satin-finished centre and is adorned with the De Bethune logo and microlight elliptical engraving.
The matt noir finish of the case may be considered sombre when judged against the extreme brilliant polishing bestowed upon many previous De Bethune cases. On balance, however, the naturally oxidised zirconium serves as the perfect foil for showcasing the exquisite dial to maximum effect.
De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite dial
For the dial on the De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite, the company has worked with a meteorite known as Muonionalusta. First discovered in Sweden, back in 1906, it is estimated that it first struck the Earth over one million years ago. Being composed predominantly of iron and nickel, the meteorite’s ferrous composition proves the perfect dial material for a brand that arguably has the industry’s finest reputation for thermal bluing.
A distinct geometric pattern of 60° angles adorns the dial and is accentuated by acid etching, a process that occurs prior to oxidisation. The skill of the artisan is to time the heating to ensure the correct colour develops. In this instance, the blues created are electric and interspersed with striking purple tones. An array of white gold pins are hand driven into the dial surface. As if to reaffirm the model’s exclusivity, De Bethune invites would-be owners to select their own choice of constellation or personal skyscape.
The outer perimeter sports a blue satin-brushed minute track that sits in contrast to the adjacent hour track. The hour track is fashioned from black anthracite and depicts the hours with Arabic numerals finished in pink gold, perfectly matching the elegant arrow-shaped hour and minute hands.
At the 6 o’clock position, an aperture reveals the intricacy of De Bethune’s exceptional movement, the Calibre DB2115v7.
De Bethune Calibre DB2115v7
Beating at 4 Hz, this hypnotic movement is both technically brilliant and aesthetically magnificent. A glimpse of the Calibre DB2115v7 is afforded through the open window at 6 o’clock. This opening also allows the wearer to see the highly polished elliptical blued titanium balance bridge.
Several patented technologies are employed, including the blued titanium balance wheel, first introduced in 2016. The rim of the balance wheel features six white gold weights and is specifically designed to counter ‘temperature differentials and fluctuations due to air penetration’.
The ‘De Bethune’ balance-spring, designed in 2006, features a flat terminal curve (as opposed to a Breguet overcoil) enabling the balance to have a shallower profile. Its shape is deliberately formed to act as a shock absorber should a significant knock impact the watch. As is often the case with brands who continually push boundaries, modern materials have been incorporated into the movement, including silicon which has been used for the escape wheel.
Comprised of 175 parts, the hand-wound movement is powered by a self-regulating twin barrel (a De Bethune innovation from 2004) and will, on a full charge, run autonomously for 6 days.
De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite strap
An ‘extra-supple alligator leather strap with alligator lining’ is a sumptuous accompaniment to the DB28XP Meteorite. When coupled with the flexibility afforded by the floating lugs, there are few watch straps able to match this for comfort. An anthracite zirconium buckle and pin secure the band and are colour matched to the case to ensure that nothing distracts the eye from the magnificent dial.
De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite – closing thoughts
For a watch brand, two decades would appear to be a brief existence, especially in an industry where some brands claim over two centuries of history. However, in a relatively short time, De Bethune has become a remarkable brand. It has proven beyond doubt that it has the ability to innovate, not only with regards to the technical aspects of watchmaking but also in terms of architecture and material science. Incorporating such a striking dial serves to deepen the intrigue and mystery of Denis Flageollet and how he derives his inspiration. Having the skill and bravery to fuse a meteorite dial from the dawn of time with an ultra-modern looking case and futuristic blued titanium accents is sheer brilliance and testament to his visionary flair.
With such limited numbers and with a price tag beyond the reach of most, few will get to see these timepieces, let alone own one. The beauty of buying watches from independent maisons such as De Bethune is the ability to personalise watch attributes on request. With the DB28XP Meteorite, each dial can be individually tailored to fit the owner’s astronomical preference, effectively making each one of the ten a ‘piece unique’. Rarity is a prized attribute in the world of luxury, hence these extremely limited and beautiful creations will undoubtedly be snapped up by connoisseurs, disappearing from view with the alacrity of a shooting star.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: De Bethune DB28XP Meteorite
- Case: Matt Anthracite Zirconium with De Bethune floating lugs. Zirconium caseback with “microlight” engraved case middle. Diameter 43 mm – thickness 7.2 mm. Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating
- Dial: Anthracite hour ring with transferred Arabic numerals in pink. Satin-brushed titanium minutes ring. Blue meteorite dial and a starry sky with white gold inlaid stars
- Functions: Hours; minutes
- Movement: DB2115V7 Calibre 165 parts, 27 jewels. Self- regulating twin barrel. Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts. De Bethune Balance spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel. 4 Hz / 28,800 vph. Power reserve 6 days.
- Strap: Extra supple alligator leather, alligator lining
- Limited Edition: 10 pieces
- Price: 120,000 CHF (RRP as of 14.6.2021)