TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial Ref. WBP201C.BA0632
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial is the latest divers’ watch from the avant-garde Swiss brand. At first glance its appearance seems little different from its 2016 predecessor. Although the Calibre 5 Automatic remains unchanged and continues to power the watch, close examination reveals there are few dial or case elements that have not been updated and improved. Angus Davies, having spent several days ‘hands-on’ with the watch, shares his observations.
Earlier this month TAG Heuer unveiled the latest generation of TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300. The brand provided a plethora of high-resolution images as well as comprehensive information relating to its new model. After studying the images provided and perusing the accompanying information, it soon became apparent the Swiss luxury marque has expended much time enhancing the composition of the former model.
However, there is nothing quite like a hands-on review, something I alluded to in my overview of TAG Heuer’s latest range of divers’ watches. A few days ago, an email arrived from the brand’s UK office kindly offering to provide a sample timepiece; I eagerly accepted. To make this temporary ownership experience even more agreeable, I was indulged with a selection of references to choose from. I picked the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial Ref. WBP201C.BA0632.
The dial
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial with horizontal ribbing shares many characteristics of the outgoing model, but with some subtle changes. For example, the width of each ribbed line has changed, appearing to accommodate the dial text better. TAG Heuer has also reduced the amount of text presented on the dial and swapped the positions of the ‘Aquaracer’ name and the brand’s logo. The various texts on the dial appear more refined and luxurious. None of this sounds much, but it confers a much cleaner aesthetic.
Image – the former Aquaracer, first released in 2016
When wearing the watch, the dial’s sunray brush wonderfully toys with light, appearing to divide the dial into four quadrants. It may sound incidental but it confers a sense of sumptuousness not usually found on watches within this price segment.
On the former model, the luminescent treatment found on both the hour and minute hands was divided, however, on this model, one uninterrupted block of Super-LumiNova adorns each hand. The tip of the hour hand is noticeably wider, augmenting readability.
The trapezoidal indexes, employed on the former model to denote each hour, are now restricted to just the cardinal points alone, with the intervening hours depicted by octagonal indexes. Throughout this composition, Guy Bove, the Creative Director of TAG Heuer, along with his team of designers, have taken the model’s 12-sided bezel design and used it as a source of inspiration.
The black central sweep seconds hand is fitted with a yellow trapezoidal-shaped lollipop, lined with luminescent treatment and located adjacent to a yellow tip. Some of the modifications seem inconsequential, such as the repositioning of the lollipop which has moved closer to the fulcrum of the dial. However, when these seemingly minor changes are viewed collectively, it becomes very apparent the dial is now less cluttered and simpler to read.
Another subtle change is that the flange encircling the dial is now stepped, sitting above the main ribbed dial section. The one-second markings of the former model have been supplanted with ½-second strokes. The date display has been moved from its former 3 o’clock home to 6 o’clock.
On paper, these changes may sound inconsequential, however, collectively they grant the dialscape with a degree of symmetry. Indeed, when designing the watch, Guy Bove often talks about a ‘dynamic 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock look’. Again, it sounds like a trivial detail but in reality, it brings much to the table, elevating the overall sense of cohesion. The date is angled, delivering superior readability and sits beneath a magnified lens. On the former model, the magnified lens sat proud atop the crystal, however, on the new model, the lens is located on the underside of the crystal, avoiding any protrusions.
In dim light conditions, the hour hand and indexes emit a green luminescent glow. However, the minute hand, luminescent lollipop on the central sweep seconds hand and the triangular index on the bezel are all presented in blue. It is these delightful nuances that enrich the wearer experience.
The case
The former Aquaracer was released in 2016 and, in my opinion, it was always a handsome creation, however, this new model, offered in 36mm and 43mm options, looks and feels more elegant. I liked the aluminium bezel found on the former model and have always been sceptical about whether a ceramic bezel is superior. However, having worn the Aquaracer Professional 300 for a number of days, I can attest that it is indeed far superior. Ceramic is less susceptible to fading or scratching and, in this instance, it looks far cleaner.
Image – the former Aquaracer, first released in 2016
The new bezel eschews the six overriders found on the 2016 model and now features a knurled edge, facilitating ease of manipulation. When rotating the unidirectional bezel, it advances anticlockwise in 1-second steps while delivering a very agreeable degree of resistance. However, the best part of turning the bezel, even surpassing its wonderful tactility, is the accompanying soundtrack it provides. Indeed, each click confers a sense of solidity and precision. Put simply, this touchpoint feels a cut above its rivals.
Most case surfaces on the new watch are fine-brushed with some additional soupçons of polished metal enlivening the model’s overall appearance. A gleaming bevel sits atop the satin-brushed bezel. Whenever a brand elects to juxtapose fine-brushed and gleaming surfaces it heightens cost. Both skill and time are needed to create a discrete line between the two finishes, hence it is usually found on costlier watches.
The crown continues to sit between the shoulders of a crown protector, albeit on this latest evolution of the Aquaracer, the crown protector is more prominent. The crown is also more elaborately shaped with what at first appears to be a gleaming cap positioned to the end of the knurled grip. Close examination reveals that the end cap is part of the crown and not a separate component. It sounds like a minor detail, but once again it makes the watch look and feel more luxurious. The vertical flank of the crown is engraved with the brand’s logo. Moreover, the aforementioned end cap is framed with a 12-sided edge.
Image – the former Aquaracer, first released in 2016
Upholding the specification of the 2016 model, the solid caseback sports a diving helmet motif, albeit on the new model TAG Heuer has introduced a new, angular design. The helmet is set against a backdrop of hexagons. Adjacent to the central area of the caseback, an arcing circlet of gleaming steel frames the subaquatic scene. By adopting this detail, the caseback looks more luxurious. Moreover, the caseback has been re-engineered to ensure it perfectly lines up on a 12-6 axis.
When I recently spoke to Guy Bove, he revealed that the brand has expended much time improving the ergonomic relationship between the watch and its wearer. Having worn the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial for several days, I was able to readily discern the superior wrist-feel provided as a result of the Swiss firm’s efforts.
The bracelet is thinner than before, albeit it still looks capable of withstanding harsh treatment. When viewed from the side, one can see that the bracelet is more integrated into the watch head, while the sharp lugs allow the bracelet to free fall downwards, enveloping the wrist with a cosseting embrace. The slender links allow the bracelet to flex, thereby conferring sublime levels of wearer comfort. A folding clasp securely holds the bracelet in position, while the fine adjustment system is useful on terra firma, providing a simple, user-friendly means of expanding the bracelet on warm summer days. Beyond its practical attributes, the bracelet also reveals an impressive thoroughness to its execution. The 3-rows bracelet is fine-brushed on its dominant surfaces but polished on its flanks. The same characteristic can be seen on the clasp, while the twin blades of the folding bracelet are highly polished.
When viewed from the side, some divers’ watches can appear cumbersome. Indeed, a high level of water resistance seems inextricably linked to bulk. However, despite having a maximum water resistance of 300m, the new Aquaracer doesn’t look or feel unduly large or unwieldy.
The movement
The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial is equipped with the Calibre 5 automatic movement. This has been carried over unchanged from the Aquaracer of 2016, however, as the saying goes “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.” Certainly, this movement has a reputation for being reliable, precise and simple to service.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 38 hours.
Closing remarks
Since it was launched in 2016, I have worn numerous versions of the Aquaracer, something which will be evident when perusing ESCAPEMENT’s archives. Indeed, it is a model I can say I have always liked and admired.
However, the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial feels far superior in many ways. Some improvements seem small, but they still represent progress and, when viewed collectively, significantly enrich the ownership experience. Other changes are very noticeable, immediately revealing a palpable sense of excellence. For example, the bracelet delivers an extraordinary level of wearer comfort. Likewise, the dial is less cluttered, forgoing some text, thereby endowing the model with a more refined, elegant appearance.
Throughout the composition, TAG Heuer has paired fine brushed and polished surfaces. This will certainly have heightened production costs but it imbues the model with a luxurious appearance and a feel that surpasses that of the outgoing model.
I would have loved to have been a fly on the wall at TAG Heuer HQ when the costs of producing this latest version were discussed. I suspect the ‘bean-counters’ were perspiring whenever Guy Bove talked about yet another luxurious refinement, especially because, despite all the previously mentioned changes, the price of the new model is only slightly higher.
In recent years, TAG Heuer’s watches have got better and better. This was manifest with the updated Monaco models of 2019, the revised Carrera of last year and now the new Aquaracer. I would urge anyone looking for a watch with a maximum budget of £5000 to consider this timepiece, you won’t be disappointed. The icing on the cake is that this model costs £2500 – it just keeps getting better and better!
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Silver Dial
- Reference: WBP201C.BA0632
- Case: Steel; diameter 43mm; water resistance 30ATM (300 metres); sapphire crystal to front; solid caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; centre seconds; date
- Movement: Calibre 5; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap: Steel 3 rows bracelet with steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons and fine adjustment system
- Price: £2,500 (RRP as at 26.4.2021)