DuBois et fils DBF009 Watch Review
The DuBois et fils DBF009 is a modern take on a pilots’ watch but features a charming twist. Designed by the highly talented Stephan Messmer, this latest timepiece features a ‘new, completely overhauled and revised’ Calibre Felsa 692 automatic from 1948. The model exudes character from every angle courtesy of its nuanced dial and propeller-themed crown. Angus Davies travels to the brand’s new facility, located on the outskirts of Basel, to view the watch at close quarters and, in so doing, discovers a mind-blowing treasure trove of horological artefacts.
Pilots’ watches
In 1904, Louis Cartier created the first men’s wristwatch for his friend, the Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont. While gentlemen of this era usually carried a pocket watch in a waistcoat pocket, they proved impractical. Indeed, trying to simultaneously fly a plane while timing a flight must have been near-impossible. The solution came in the form of a wristworn pilots’ watch.
During the 1930s, pilots’ watches were used as navigation tools and became very popular. Famously, several brands produced ‘B-Uhr’ watches for the German military. These typically measured 55 mm in diameter and were worn over the sleeve. Later, the B-Uhr watches inspired various firms to create similarly styled, but smaller, civilian watches. These latter watches gained popularity during the 80s and continue to enjoy a loyal following.
Over the years, Swiss watch brands have worked with various airlines, creating watches for commercial pilots, sometimes incorporating the colours or insignia of a particular carrier. Originally conceived as an alternative to the pocket watch, the wristworn pilots’ watch became a complement to cockpit instruments. With advances in avionics, it could be said that these professional instruments became more of an adjunct to the cockpit instruments, albeit they remained useful.
While many horophiles don’t fly planes professionally or for recreational purposes, pilots’ watches remain hugely popular. They are often generously proportioned and usually feature clean, uncluttered dials.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – introduction
DuBois et fils, a brand that has always been attentive to the desires of watch collectors, has created the DBF009, a series of models that inhabit the pilots’ watch space, delivering said benefits. However, these watches go further by stylishly playing with an array of dial colours and textures. Moreover, the cases are enriched with delightful details, while the fitment of a vintage movement adds an additional dose of charm.
Recently, I visited the company’s new facility at Muttenz, just on the outskirts of Basel. In this feature, I look closely at the DuBois et fils DBF009, pointing out some of its characteristics. In addition, I also make reference to the firm’s vast inventory of vintage movements and historical movement parts. Without further ado, let’s begin by discussing dials.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – Stephan Messmer
A prerequisite for a pilots’ watch is peerless legibility. Indeed, this is one of the main reasons many watch aficionados are attracted to this genre of watch. However, some pilots’ watches can appear a tad austere, albeit this is not the case with the DBF009.
Thomas Steinemann, CEO of DuBois et fils, a son of Basel blessed with a near-obsessive attention to detail, commissioned Stephan Messmer to design the DBF009. Both men have worked together in the past. Indeed, over the years, Messmer has been entrusted with designing four watches for the independent Swiss marque. Furthermore, Messmer has an impressive track record working for several brands within the watch industry, including a stint as Product Design Manager at Omega.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – dial
Fulsome hour and minute hands, lined with Super-LumiNova, are teamed with rounded, luminescent Arabic numerals, proclaiming the time intelligibly. The central sweep seconds is long and stretches to the perimeter of the dial, rotating above a neat minute track. Look closely and you will note the seconds hand is endowed with a fir-tree-shaped counterweight, the company’s logo. A triangular index is positioned below noon, a detail that was found on B-Uhr watches of the 1930s. A date display, located at 3 o’clock, completes the list of functions.
Currently, DuBois et fils offers eight versions of the DBF009, embracing different hues, dial finishes and case treatments. Some dials have a granular-type dial finish, while others are baby-soft-smooth and enriched with a sun-ray motif. While historical pilots’ watches tended to be utilitarian, designed solely to fulfil a functional role, DuBois et fils has not been afraid to embrace sumptuous finishes and details such as degradé dials. These nuanced dialscapes transition from mid tones at their centre and become increasingly dark as they near the bezel.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – case
The watch industry is not immune to changing tastes. In recent years, case sizes have become smaller, with many so-called experts dismissing anything that is not 39 mm or 40 mm in diameter. In my opinion, a more important consideration than mere diameter is how the caseback, lugs and strap nuzzle the wrist.
While DuBois et fils does offer a 39 mm option in the form of the DBF008, it has not been afraid to look at larger case sizes where appropriate. The DBF009 measures 44 mm in diameter, which, bearing in mind the history of pilots’ watches, seems appropriate. Moreover, the lugs arc from the case middle and are comparatively short. Having worn the watch, I found it conferred a cosseting wrist fit.
The case is formed of Grade 5 titanium, an alloy comprising 90% titanium, 6% aluminium, 4% vanadium and minuscule traces of iron and oxygen. Grade 5 titanium is very strong, light, not liable to corrosion, hypoallergenic and can be polished to a resplendent gleam (something not possible with cheaper Grade 2 titanium). DuBois et fils has enriched the appearance of the case by juxtaposing polished and brushed surfaces. While most models present the titanium in its customary silver-grey tones, the Swiss brand offers some references with a stealthy black DLC coating.
If you were in any doubt about the model’s aviation-themed inspiration, look no further than the crown. The independent brand shuns ‘samey’, choosing to style the crown to resemble an aircraft propeller. The twin blades (don’t worry they’re not sharp) prove simple to manipulate. I could not help but smile when adjusting the hour and minute hands. Ask yourself, how often do you smile when winding your watch?
To the rear, the watch is equipped with an exhibition caseback, allowing wearers to admire the automatic movement within.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – vintage
For those ESCAPEMENT readers who are unfamiliar with the DuBois et fils story, the company has chosen to use vintage movements. In a world now accustomed to recycling, it seems very sensible to unpack old calibres languishing on a shelf and restore, service and imbue them with a new lease of life.
There is a widespread belief among many watchmakers that the various grades of steel used in the past were superior to those of today. Indeed, a while ago, I discussed this point with Thomas Gronenthal of DuBois et fils who agreed and also pointed out that the gear train wheels were generally bigger and the movements were often easier to repair. It must be remembered that many mechanical watches made in the 40s, 50s and 60s, featuring Felsa or A. Schild movements were intended for manual workers where robustness was an important consideration.
While DuBois et fils used modern-day movements in its early references, it made a strategic decision to ‘go vintage’ a few years ago. Indeed, in 2017, the company acquired 230,000 vintage movements. Since then, this figure has increased with further acquisitions. Moreover, its inventory now includes dials, movements, etc for a myriad of brands, including Omega, Rolex, Tissot, etc. Chatting to Thomas Steinemann, the company has the means not just to service its own timepieces but those of several other brands should it wish.
DuBois et fils DBF009 – Calibre Felsa 692 automatic
The DuBois et fils DBF009 is equipped with a Calibre Felsa 692 automatic movement from 1948. This movement belonged to the now-famous ‘Bidynator’ family, a series of calibres created by the Grenchen-based movement specialist. Conceived in 1942, the Bidynator is a bi-directional winding system that energises the mainspring, a mechanism that has since been emulated by other brands.
‘New, completely overhauled and revised’, the Calibre Felsa 692 automatic features an Incabloc shock protection system and contains 17 jewels. The watch has a screwed balance and is fitted with a traditional curb adjuster to alter the rate. DuBois et fils has chosen to embellish the automatic device bridge and rotor with a grained finish, an approach befitting the honest character of this period movement.
Closing remarks
If we consider pilots’ watches or divers’ watches, they were originally intended for professional use. However, their design, legibility and robustness have seen both genres of watch resonating with a broad, civilian audience. DuBois et fils has recognised the potential mass appeal of these timepieces, releasing divers’ models (DBF007) and, more recently, pilots’ watches (DBF009).
The DuBois et fils DBF009 proffers an abundance of eye-appeal with handsome dials and cases, rich in considered detail. The addition of a tried and tested Felsa movement augments the allure of the model and differentiates the watch from most of its rivals. Moreover, considering the company’s fondness for Swiss-made components, the watches are priced competitively.
As I surveyed the brand’s pristine workshop, I marvelled at the many boxes of vintage movements and watch components, all neatly arranged on shelving. I couldn’t help wonder what other delights were shrouded in protective wrapping, waiting to be discovered, destined for a future powering new yet to be released DBF references. DBF010, DBF011… where will Thomas Steinemann find his next source of inspiration?
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: DuBois et fils DBF009
- Case: Grade 5 titanium or Grade 5 titanium with black DLC coating, diameter 44 mm, height 12.38 mm (with glass), water resistance 2 ATM (20 metres), sapphire crystal to the front and rear
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre Felsa 692, self-winding movement, frequency 18,800 vph (2.5 Hz), 17 jewels; power reserve 44 hours.
- Strap: rubber with top side textile polyester and fitted with a polished and brushed Grade 5 titanium clasp
- Price: starting from CHF 8,250 including VAT (RRP as of 15.7.2025)
- Limited Edition: all models are limited to 22 pieces each (176 watches in total)