Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival Watch Review
Having seen the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival at Geneva Watch Days, Angus Davies requested a sample of the watch for an extended period of evaluation. In this feature, the Lancastrian horophile takes a closer look at the retro-inspired chronograph that appears to deliver so much for a comparatively modest sum.
Favre Leuba watch
A few months ago, at Geneva Watch Days, I made a point of visiting Favre Leuba, a name I recognised from the past. The firm had been quiet for a few years but seemed determined to make a big noise with its presence in the Swiss city. Close to the shores of Lac Léman, the resurgent brand showcased three collections: Chief, Deep Blue and Sea Sky. Each reference appeared on point, delivering agreeable styling, mechanical virtue and an impressive quality/price ratio.
While chatting to Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of the brand, I noticed his colleague, Emanuel Bitton, was wearing a stunning chronograph. I enquired about the watch and a box-fresh sample was presented to me. The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival cuts a handsome figure with its three-counter design and vintage-inspired details. I was immediately smitten; however, there was a little voice inside of me saying, “Remember the Jaguar XJ6”. Allow me to elaborate.
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival – ‘hands-on’
In 2005, having experienced lots of issues with a two-year old Volvo I had owned from new, the service manager at my local dealership suggested I might like to borrow a Jaguar, another brand they also sold. My car needed more repairs, so I readily accepted his kind offer.
I can still vividly recall the brand new XJ6 presented in British Racing Green. Its ivory interior was the epitome of luxury. Driving away in the car, I was immediately wowed by the whisper quiet engine, the cosseting ride and the rich aroma of the leather interior. After living with the car for 24 hours, I decided I would place an order for my very own British thoroughbred. However, on the third day of my extended test drive, having returned home after 500 km in the vehicle, I changed my opinion. My back ached profusely and the automotive romance was well and truly over. The Jaguar was fabulous, but the seats were unsuitable for someone cursed with my large bones.
The moral of the story is that there is no substitute for prolonged exposure to a product. When Favre Leuba offered to provide a Sea Sky Revival for a ‘hands-on review’, I eagerly welcomed their suggestion. Moreover, I was loaned the watch for 10 days, some seven days longer than my extended Jaguar test drive. What would I discover over this period? Would the watch suit my larger-than-average physique?
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival – dial
The Swiss marque offers three versions of the Sea Sky Revival: black, blue and brown. While all references are named ‘Revival’, the black version delivers the highest quotient of ‘retroness’, courtesy of its ‘old-radium style’ luminescent treatment. The lume is present on the hands, hour markers and the triangular index gracing the bezel. The blue and brown variants feature Super-LumiNova C1 X1 which appears white in bright conditions and emits a blue hue in dim light. Objectively, the blue and brown versions may be slightly easier to read, but the black remains my preferred choice due to its notable period charm.
Fulsome hour and minute hands articulate the prevailing time. The hands are rhodium plated and lined with ecru-toned lume that bestows a green emission in restricted light. The black dial features a ‘matt base finish’ and is punctuated with three recessed and snailed counters, executed in a ‘light egg shell colour’. By opting for this shade, Favre Leuba has further heightened the period vibe.
A 30-minute chronograph register is positioned at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph register is located at 6 o’clock and a small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock. A baton style hand indicates the running seconds, while the hands found on the chronograph registers sport prominent triangular tips. The counter at 3 o’clock also includes 3-minute ‘pip’ markings, again found on chronographs of yesteryear. The counters eschew lume, allowing the hands and hour makers to enjoy all the limelight after the lights have gone down.
A telemeter scale frames the central area of the dial. When used in conjunction with the central chronograph seconds hand, this feature allows the wearer to ascertain the distance by measuring the period from witnessing a visual event eg a flash of lightning and thereafter an audible event eg the sound of thunder. This form of scale was once often used by the artillery regiments as a means of determining the distance from enemy fire.
The dial is also equipped with a tachymeter scale, fringing the display. Again used in conjunction with the central chronograph seconds hand, this function can be used to determine the speed of an object over a known distance.
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival – case
Housed in stainless steel 316L, the case measures 40 mm in diameter. When contrasted with watches of yesteryear, the modern-day Favre Leuba is larger but, rest assured, its dimensions should suit the majority of wrists.
Favre-Leuba has opted to satin finish most case surfaces save for the bevelled lug sections that are imbued with a highly polished gleam. The resultant blend of surface treatments proves harmonious and overall the case, to my eyes, looks incredibly handsome.
The watch is fitted with a unidirectional bezel incorporating a ceramic insert. This latter material is now increasingly being selected by high-end watch brands for its scratch-resistant and fade-free qualities. When rotating the bezel, there is a degree of resistance as you would expect, but it doesn’t require undue effort to manipulate. Moreover, turning the bezel produces an audible, yet unobtrusive clicking soundtrack that’s guaranteed to evoke a smile or two. The flanks of the bezel are highly polished while the uppermost surface is marked with a count-down scale.
To the rear of the watch, a flat pane of sapphire crystal affords views of the self-winding movement. The neighbouring sections of the caseback are angled, comfortably nuzzling the fleshy part of the wrist. Measuring 15.23 mm in height, the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival proffers much wrist presence. It’s certainly not ultra-thin, but it’s not unwieldy either.
Slightly fearful that I may be revealing too much of my ‘inner-geek’, I confess to loving the capstan-style pushpieces gracing the right flank of the case. Furthermore, the fluted grip of the crown and the bezel’s castellated edge grant a delightful tactility. These details may sound insignificant, but it’s these horological touchpoints that will confer ownership delight for years to come.
The Sea Sky Revival is presented on a brown grained leather strap with contrasting stitching. Favre Leuba has shrewdly opted to include a quick release system, allowing the owner to easily swap the strap for an alternative without the need for tools.
Favre Leuba FLC01 Calibre (LJP L112 Top Grade)
The Swiss marque has chosen to equip the Sea Sky Revival with the LJP L112 ‘Top Grade’ calibre, made by movement specialist La Joux-Perret. This integrated chronograph movement is equipped with a blued column wheel and vertical coupling. Pressing the pushpiece at 2 o’clock awakens the central chronograph seconds hand. It commences its journey without hesitation, while the pushpiece action proves eminently smooth; two attributes that will elicit nods of approval among purists.
Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the single barrel movement will run autonomously for up to 60 hours. The ‘Top Grade’ specification includes, perlage, blued screws and Côtes de Genève on the automatic device bridge. The personalised oscillating mass is openworked, executed in 4N PVD and adorned with soleillage, colimaçon and the company’s name.
Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival – closing remarks
Over the 10 day period that I spent with the Sea Sky Revival, I think we got to know each other well. I’m a tad morose before 10 am and probably less active than most average fiftysomethings. But I learnt that the FL looks good morning, noon and night. Its dial is functional and in my opinion it looks stunning.
The nuanced contrast of the light egg shell counters against the matt black backdrop promises an enduring charm unlikely to be diminished with changing fashions. Likewise, explore each facet of the case with a probing finger and you will discover subtle and carefully considered details, designed to augment the joy of ownership. Indeed, wherever you choose to look you will discern an impressive level of quality discernible with a loupe or said finger.
The LJP L112 ‘top grade’ calibre is mightily impressive. It would be a cold heart that wasn’t warmed by the smooth feel of the pushpieces or the wobble-free motion of the central chronograph seconds leaving the starting gate. Favre Leuba could have chosen one of the lower grade movement executions: standard, soignée (neat) and soignée vis bleues (neat with blued screws); however, it opted for the top-of-the range specification.
Don’t misconstrue, the watch does not have a variable inertia balance nor does it share the same standard of finishing found on the finest expressions of Haute Horlogerie, but then again, the keen pricing of the FL would preclude this. However, when you consider the execution of the dial, case and movement, there is no question this watch delivers a high quotient of quality for a relatively modest sum.
Unfortunately, an extended period of evaluation remains the preserve of journalists and is not an option for most watch buyers. But worry not, having worn the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival for 10 days, I can attest that it is a fabulous watch that I would be proud to own. And furthermore, at no stage did I experience any discomfort!
Further information
https://www.favreleuba.com/?___store=gb
Technical specification
- Model: Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival
- Reference: 00.20212.112.01.101
- Case: stainless steel 316L, diameter 40 mm, height 15.23 mm, sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition caseback, water resistant to 10 ATM (100 metres)
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter, telemeter
- Movement: FLC01 Calibre (LJP L112 Top Grade), self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 26 jewels, 60-hour power reserve
- Strap: brown leather strap fitted with a steel pin buckle.
- Price: €4,600 (RRP as of 17.12.2024)