Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 Watch Review
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 was recently unveiled at Dubai Watch Week. Angus Davies looks closely at this new model and explains the reasons for some of the watch’s many technical features.
Ferdinand Berthoud, Abraham-Louis Breguet and Antide Janvier
In the annals of horology, some watchmakers continue to stand out as remarkable individuals despite their passing some two hundred years or so ago. Often the interests of these watchmakers encompassed mathematics, physics and astronomy. Indeed, in the 18th century, the upper echelons of watchmaking were frequented by intellectuals whose sphere of reference would invariably extend beyond mere clocks and watches.
Personally, my watchmaking heroes remain Ferdinand Berthoud, Abraham-Louis Breguet, and, lastly, Antide Janvier. These men conceived wholly original ideas, sketched components on paper and fabricated parts with primitive equipment. This was an age that pre-dated computer-aided design, 3D printing and CNC machines, yet many of the inventions that were conceived by the aforementioned horological triumvirate have never been surpassed.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
In 2006, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard acquired the rights to the Ferdinand Berthoud name. This represented a huge coup for Mr Scheufele, an avid admirer of Berthoud. In fact, Mr Scheufele personally owns several examples of Berthoud’s work, many of which are held at his private museum at the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier.
I suspect Mr Scheufele, having acquired the Ferdinand Berthoud name, felt a huge sense of responsibility. To create a mediocre watch bearing the great man’s name would have been sacrilege. Only an exceptional creation would suffice.
The rebirth of Ferdinand Berthoud (2015)
In 2015, nine years after acquiring the Ferdinand Berthoud name, I attended the launch of the brand’s inaugural model. At the time, Mr Scheufele wanted to create a contemporary timepiece which ‘Ferdinand Berthoud might have created if he was living now.’ The industry veteran did not disappoint the assembled commentators.
Image – Chronomètre FB1
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1 was offered in two variants, one housed in 18-carat white gold and titanium (later called FB1.1) and the second in 18-carat rose gold and black ceramic (subsequently named the FB 1.2). Each watch proved stunning both aesthetically and technically. Looking back, I wrote that the FB1 was my favourite watch of 2015.
Image – Calibre FB-T.FC
Ferdinand Berthoud – new product development
Following the unveiling of the FB1, I could not help but wonder what the brand would do next. After all, the market for watches operating within this price segment was, and remains, comparatively small, potentially inhibiting innovation and new product development.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1L
Ferdinand Berthoud employed an interesting strategy. It released new models which subscribed to a similar design language to that of the FB1 of 2015, save for the dial and movement designs which were radically different. The sequel, Chronomètre FB1R, was unveiled at SIHH 2018. Thereafter, In 2019, the high-end Manufacture released the Chronomètre FB1L.
Image – Chronomètre FB1R
In between releasing entirely new models, Ferdinand Berthoud also revisited its existing references, offering what some brands would term ‘animations’. However, the changes went beyond a new dial colour. The brand employed different materials for the case and dial, alternative hues, gem-setting and other artistic crafts.
Image – Chronomètre FB1L
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE
And then, just as you thought you knew the direction the brand was taking with the styling of its products, it unveiled the Chronomètre FB 2RE (2020). With this model, the Maison eschewed the octagonal case profile, favouring a new round case. This housing did not supplant the eight-sided case, it was merely an addition to the company’s portfolio.
Image – Chronomètre 2RE
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RS
Earlier this year, the creative minds at Ferdinand Berthoud conceived the Chronomètre FB RS. Prospective clients were indulged with a choice of an octagonal case or a round case. Interestingly, the Swiss marque chose to endow each variant with a large openworked vista, affording horophiles the tantalising prospect of seeing numerous movement components typically hidden from prying eyes. However, when the finissage is executed to such an exalted level, many commentators would argue, myself included, that it deserves to be seen.
Image – Chronomètre FB RS
Recently, at Dubai Watch Week 2021 (24.11.2021 – 28.11.2021), Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled another timepiece that disclosed many of its thought processes, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3. Indeed, this model, a pièce unique, is endowed with sapphire half-bridges exposing much of the hand-wound movement’s inner beauty.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 pièce unique
One glance at the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 and the family likeness is apparent. Personally, I feel cohesion is a prerequisite for any watch firm’s collection to prosper in the long term. There should be innovation, but there should be common design elements that link each model. This latest watch, a unique piece, features many distinctive details, but it also possesses a myriad of reassuringly familiar aspects.
Image – Chronomètre FB1.4-3
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3
This latest watch bears a strong resemblance to the Swiss marque’s initial creation, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1 (released in 2015). However, there are some eye-catching features that are unique to this model.
The 44 mm case is presented in bead-blasted titanium. This material is ultra-light and is not liable to corrosion nor is it affected by magnetism. Another useful benefit of titanium is that it is hypoallergenic, making it ideal for would-be wearers who may suffer an adverse reaction to nickel. When the watch is fully assembled, it weighs a mere 80g, making it remarkably light for any watch, especially one of such complexity.
The inaugural version of the Chronomètre FB1, which remains in production, contains the Calibre FB-T.F.C, a hand-wound movement. It features traditional, pillar-style architecture and the bridges and plates are formed of German silver. In many ways the composition of the Chronomètre FB1.4-3 is similar, save for two principal differences. With this latest model the bridges and plates are rhodium-plated and adorned with various blue details and text.
Image – Calibre FB-T.FC-2
Despite its obvious modernity, the movement within the Chronomètre FB1.4-3, the Calibre FB-T.FC-2, upholds traditional fine-watchmaking practise, including finely chamfered and sandblasted bevels. The power-reserve indicator, positioned at 9 o’clock, is presented via an aperture. This opening is recessed and includes bevelled edges. In common with all Ferdinand Berthoud creations, all finishes are entirely hand-crafted.
As stated earlier, the movement features three sapphire half-bridges which, in combination with the rhodium-plated bridges and plates, allow light to pass through the tourbillon aperture to the base of the display and flood the dial plane.
Image – Chronomètre FB 1.4-3
Ferdinand Berthoud has judiciously employed blue tones throughout. For example, adjacent the silver-toned dial with its vertical graining, running north to south, sits an off-centre hour and minutes display, dressed in indigo blue. This shade also extends to the blue bead-blasted translucent sapphire seconds track. Lastly, the central seconds hand is formed of bronze and treated with blue CVD.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 – a tour de force
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 is festooned with a cornucopia of technical features. Allow me to elaborate.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 – constant force
With a conventional watch, the energy held within the mainspring(s) is sent via the gear train to the escapement and, thereafter, to the regulating organ. When the mainspring is fully wound there may actually be too much energy passing through the gear train. This scenario may cause ‘banking’ or ‘knocking’ which can adversely affect the precision and may potentially damage the impulse pin and pallets. Once the mainspring has relaxed a little, the energy delivered to the escapement is ideal, the amplitude is within the desired range and the movement delivers a high degree of precision.
When the mainspring becomes relaxed, the energy drops and, by default, the rate of the balance increases. This is because the amplitude of the balance is less than the optimal range. Moreover, by moving the watch, especially when holding it in a vertical position, the amplitude will drop further, again making the watch run faster.
Image – Chronomètre FB 1.4-3 fusée and chain transmission (image from FB1)
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 features a fusée and chain transmission, both suspended with no support underneath. The fusée resembles a cone with a series of grooves or channels arranged along its flank. The chain, comprising 790 links, fully encircles the fusée when the mainspring is fully wound. The profile of the cone is matched to the torque characteristics of the mainspring. As the chain unwinds, less torque is required to turn the fusée, compensating for the relaxed state of the mainspring. Moreover, as the chain unwinds, it migrates from the fusée to the barrel. This system helps to deliver a consistent supply of torque or energy to the escapement.
Furthermore, the barrel is endowed with a Maltese cross stopwork system. This prevents the barrel being fully wound or totally unwound. Indeed, when the torque is represented on a graph, the optimal range is in the centre of the graph where the line is flattest and the energy is the most consistent. By equipping the Chronomètre FB1.4-3 with a Maltese cross stopwork system, any fluctuations in energy within the mainspring are mitigated.
Constant force is a critical factor in these rarefied heights of chronometry.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 – tourbillon
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 is fitted with a tourbillon. This system was patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1801) as a means of countering the influence of gravity upon the regulating organ.
Image – Chronomètre FB1.4-3 (tourbillon in the foreground, also shows Maltese cross stopwork system in the background)
By placing the escapement and the regulating organ within a lightweight cage that rotates 360° every minute, any potential gains in rate are negated by the losses experienced opposite (180° away).
Interestingly, the watch features a patented system relating to the central sweep seconds hand. A wheel positioned atop of the tourbillon cage is connected to an identical wheel at the centre of the dial. This centrally positioned wheel drives the aforementioned seconds hand.
Power-reserve indicator
The teeth affixed to the barrel are in mesh with a wheel, positioned adjacent. A mobile cone is attached to this wheel interacting with a jewel-equipped feeler, which, in turn, indicates the status of the mainspring.
Image – Calibre FB-T.FC-2 (mobile cone system pictured in the foreground)
As is the case with many features on this innovative watch, the mobile cone system is patented.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 – the balance
Most wristwatches are equipped with an index-adjusted balance. With this means of regulation, the hairspring sits between two curb pins fitted to a ‘raquette’. By moving the raquette towards or away from the ‘stud’, the watchmaker changes the effective length of the hairspring making the watch run faster or slower.
However, the Calibre FB-T.FC-2 is equipped with a variable-inertia balance. In this instance, the watchmaker regulates the movement by rotating four inertia blocks, positioned on the four spokes of the balance wheel. This system is far superior to an index-adjusted balance as the watch is less susceptible to positional errors and the rate stability is superior.
Furthermore, by placing the inertia blocks in-board, instead of using traditional timing screws set in the rim of the balance wheel, the balance wheel is more aerodynamic, creating less air turbulence and, as a result, making the movement more precise.
Lastly, the hairspring features a hand-crafted Phillips terminal curve. This feature causes the hairspring to develop more concentrically, improving isochronism and, by default, precision.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3 – closing remarks
When surveying the many contours and crisp lines that form the anatomy of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3, one cannot help noticing the Maison’s remarkable attention to detail. The various colours, depths and textures have been judiciously employed, skilfully enlivening the overall appearance of the watch.
There are several parcels of delight awaiting the onlooker. Personally, I adore the blue-toned arrow-shaped tourbillon cock. Every element supplants the perfunctory, demonstrating the brand’s protracted consideration of each component. This extraordinary level of fastidiousness extends to the many exquisitely appointed surfaces, each the product of peerless hand-crafted finishing.
Beyond its aesthetic attributes, an array of technical features contribute to the model’s notable precision. Indeed, the accuracy of the Chronomètre FB1.4-3 is independently evaluated and certified by COSC.
Since the name Ferdinand Berthoud was revived in 2015, the Manufacture has produced an array of exceptional watches. Each model features a high quotient of innovation, manifest with the award of several patents. The Maison has embraced originality and modernity, while simultaneously incorporating respectful references to the past. Today’s Ferdinand Berthoud honours the genius 18th century watchmaker while exploring the limits of chronometry with contemporary expressions of Haute Horlogerie. Indeed, it seems the age of enlightenment is very much alive and well.
Further reading
https://www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/
Technical specifications
- Model: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1.4-3
- Case: Octagonal case in bead-blasted titanium; fitted with two transparent sapphire portholes, diameter 44 mm height 13 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep-seconds hand and power-reserve indication at 10 o’clock
- Movement: Calibre FB-T.FC-2; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 45 jewels; power reserve 53 hours
- Strap: Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap made from a single piece of leather paired with a double blade folding clasp
- Price: Price on application
- Limited: Pièce unique