Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand Watch Review
The Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand incorporates subtle changes to its case design and is presented in a new dial hue. Having fallen in love with the prototype version in 2025, Angus Davies was keen to see firsthand the improvements made to the new version. In this article, the Lancastrian horophile discusses his fondness for ‘independents’ and shares his observations on this latest creation to bear Jean-Marc Fleury’s name.
Independent watchmaking
For some horophiles, their watch-collecting journey begins with acquiring a timepiece from a local retailer. Sometimes selected for the name on the dial, this watch will almost inevitably be made by a mainstream brand. Many consumers choose not to venture further afield, content with their initial purchase. However, there are an increasing number of budding watch obsessives who seek to look beyond the city limits, keen to discover new expressions of high watchmaking, crafted by ‘independents’.
I confess that while I adore several models created by well-known brands, there is a special place in my heart for ‘independents’. On occasion, a highly accomplished watchmaker working for a mainstream brand chooses to turn their back on a regular salary and go it alone. These horological mavericks place all their chips on black and hope that, with the spin of the roulette wheel, they will strike it lucky. It’s a high-stakes game that has seen some aspiring entrepreneurs lose their shirt, but for others, their courage is rewarded with creative freedom, industry recognition and, hopefully, financial rewards.
Image – Fleury Manufacture atelier
It is the breathtaking originality of designs, innovative mechanisms and peerless craftsmanship that lead some watch fans to board planes and travel huge distances, keen to collect their new timepiece in person. On occasion, lifelong friendships are formed with said horological mavericks, sometimes leading to the acquisition of additional watches. Put simply, if you are a true fan of watchmaking, you will inevitably fall for the seductive charms of an independent brand.
Fleury Manufacture SA
Last year, I spent a few enjoyable days in Geneva with my colleague Mark McArthur-Christie, visiting various watch companies, large and small. During our sojourn in Switzerland, we popped by Fleury Manufacture. The independent’s atelier, located beneath the watchful gaze of Montblanc, is the very antithesis of mass production. In common with some other independents, it discreetly makes components for other firms, including ‘some of the most exclusive and respected watch brands in the world’. This approach helps to justify the significant capital expenditure made, purchasing some very impressive, costly equipment. However, the focus of our visit was to see the inaugural versions of the FXR-4 Chronograph, offered in a choice of blue or black dials. Mark volunteered to write a feature about our visit, eager to discuss the new watch at length.
Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand – continuous improvement
In April 2026, while attending Watches & Wonders, I also visited Time to Watches, a smaller exhibition held in a villa just a stone’s throw from the Palexpo (home to W&W). Here, I was able to indulge my passion for independents and took the opportunity to catch up with Fleury Manufacture. Roberto, who works with Jean-Marc Fleury, showed me a new version of the FXR-4 Chronograph, incorporating a few subtle improvements. The watch was endowed with a sand-toned dial.
When Mark and I saw the early versions of the FXR-4 Chronograph last year, they were prototypes, albeit at the time, the watches appeared flawless. However, in the world of Haute Horlogerie, there is an unwavering pursuit of excellence. Indeed, the notion of continuous improvement is not just the preserve of large-scale production sites, independents are also known to obsess over minuscule upgrades, relentlessly striving to make the supreme watch. Indeed, when an independent watchmaker places his/her name on the dial, it makes that desire for greatness personal.
Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand – new case
A cursory glance at the new Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand and you could mistakenly think, save for the dial colour, nothing has changed; however, this is not the case. Indeed, when I picked up the watch and inspected it with a loupe, subtle differences became apparent.
The date corrector pusher, located at 8 o’clock, is now smaller, projects less from the case and looks more refined. Appraising the design of the housing, contrasting the ‘before’ and ‘after’, the case of the new FXR-4 Chronograph Sand seems slightly different. Roberto informed me that the case was actually a totally new design.
Formed of steel, the case is composed of five key elements, namely the bezel, upper-ring, carrure (middle case), lower-ring and screwed caseback. Moreover, consistent with the finest expressions of Haute Horlogerie, each lug is a discrete component. By attaching the lugs separately, they can be finished to a higher standard, something clearly manifest with the FXR-4 Chronograph Sand. Likewise, the multipart case construction allows Fleury Manufacture to apply different finishes to surfaces or even combine different materials.
When high-end companies create individual lugs, they usually weld them to the case; however, in this instance, they are screwed to the body of the housing. Should a lug become damaged, it can be removed and either refurbished or replaced. This is a highly intelligent approach that will undoubtedly meet with the approval of purists.
Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand – dial
As I mentioned earlier, when I visited the company’s atelier with Mark, we looked at prototype models. Subsequently, we received images of the final watches showing just a few subtle changes. These upgrades have been applied to the new Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand. For instance, ‘Jean-Marc Fleury’ was originally written in bold block capitals, whereas on the new watches, the name is written in a mixture of upper and lowercase characters, executed in a cursive typeface. Another subtle change relates to the counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, which are now endowed with crisp numerals, positioned adjacent to silver-toned tracks.
Image above – Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph (prototype)
The new hue, termed ‘sand’, resembles a delicate shade of champagne. The main epidermis is enriched with a subtle horizontal brush, while the counters are adorned with a circular brushed finish. There is a plethora of delights to be found with this dial. In particular, I wish to draw your attention to the trapezoidal applied indexes and the gorgeously formed black polished hour and minute hands. Everything you see exudes sophistication.
Image above – Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand
Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand – movement
The stunning movement I saw in 2025, the in-house calibre FM04, remains unchanged. Courtesy of its pared back bridges, the wearer is indulged with glorious views of the wheels, column wheel, heart pieces, levers and balance. Everything is beautifully finished with mirror polishing extensively employed, while the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève.
Fleury Manufacture has opted for a classical column-wheel and horizontal clutch configuration, while at the same time it has chosen to dress the movement in a contemporary black NAC coating. This unusual marriage works well, acting as a stealthy backdrop, accentuating the appearance of black-polished steel components.
Closing remarks
It is near impossible to hide my affection for the Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand. It has been painstakingly crafted for purists, with each detail the product of protracted thought and every surface lovingly crafted with deft use of hand and extraordinary skill.
When contrasting this latest model with the prototype I saw last year, the various changes are small. However, true luxury is not about discarding a product every few years in favour of a new model. On the contrary, it is about getting it essentially right in the first place and making subtle improvements in the quest for so-called perfection.
Perfection is an elusive object, somewhere far on the horizon that’s impossible to reach; however, I suspect nobody has told Jean-Marc Fleury. He is clearly an individual who embraces evolution, imbuing his work with matchless craftsmanship and mechanical virtue. It is for these very reasons that I appreciate ‘independents’, a small group of watchmakers who carve their own path to greatness.
Further reading
https://www.fleurymanufacture.ch/
Technical specifications
- Model: Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph Sand
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 40 mm, height 12.8 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date, day/night indicator
- Movement: calibre FM04, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 26 jewels, power reserve 60 hours
- Strap: grey leather strap with polished steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 43,450 excluding VAT (RRP as of 11.6.2026)