Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm
Angus Davies has just returned from visiting the largest watch store in Europe, 155 Regent Street. It was whilst walking around this incredible retail emporium that he succumbed to the charms of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm. In his in-depth watch review, Angus discusses the many virtues of this self-winding horological beauty.
This detailed review of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm contains live images, specification details and pricing.
I have just returned from London where I was temporarily lost in a haven of horological wonderment. Watches of Switzerland has opened its new flagship store on London’s Regent Street, aptly named “155 Regent Street”.
This is retail emporium par excellence, on a scale I have never seen before. It is reputedly the largest watch store in Europe, with a total floor space of 17,000 square feet. Many of my favourite brands are represented and several maisons have sent “halo” pieces to wow visitors to the newly opened prestigious store.
Three floors of fine timepieces, ranging from the relatively accessible to the uber-luxurious, shimmer resplendently under the showroom lights. As a self-confessed watch fanatic, I vowed to visit the store on its first week of trading and after visiting the boutique, I can report I was not disappointed.
Each floor offers a dizzying array of models to whet the appetite. My favourite area of the store is the Calibre Room with numerous brands positioned side by side, proffering abundant choices all in the convenience of one location. Indeed, with my middle-aged legs lacking youthful vitality, I appreciated only having to walk a matter of a few feet to contrast similarly priced timepieces.
There were several beautiful watches which garnered my attention and elicited words of undying love to leave my lips. One such piece, and the focus of this review, was the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm (Ref. 49542-52-151-BK6A).
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm (Ref. 49542-52-151-BK6A)
This watch was launched back in 2012 and offers the convenience of a self-winding movement. Girard-Perregaux subsequently launched a similarly styled hand-wound model with a fully integrated column wheel chronograph presented in a smaller 40mm case, Girard-Perregaux 1966 Column-wheel chronograph (Ref 49529-52-131-BABA). Both models offer handsome aesthetics and deliver specific advantages and disadvantages, some of which we will touch upon in this review. However, I applaud Girard-Perregaux for providing a choice.
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Column-wheel chronograph (Ref 49529-52-131-BABA)
The dial
The design codes of the 1966 Chronograph 42mm are classical. The model is imbued with a traditional air, reminiscent of historical chronographs from the past. A key attribute of this timepiece is that the design will retain relevance and eye-appeal for decades to come. This is a watch which will not suffer the indignity of becoming passé and will remain untouched by the fickle hand of fashion. Indeed, the lasting appeal of the styling makes the 1966 Chronograph a model worth considering when marking a special occasion.
There is a palpable quotient of elegance with the 1966 Chronograph. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands impart time with restrained charm, exhibiting a tastefully luxurious golden hue. Applied Arabic numerals denote the hours, wonderfully contrasting with the silver-plated dial, and deliver a delightful depth which is very becoming.
The bi-compax dial layout is stunning. It grants a comely balance and accords proportion to the dial. Moreover, the subdials are optimally placed. By contrast, on some other chronographs the registers are too close together, because the architecture of the movement within obligates the designer to concede to such practical considerations. However, no such compromise afflicts the 1966 Chronograph, the proportions of the dial layout are perfect, thanks to the design of the manufacture movement within this GP timepiece.
A small seconds display is positioned at 3 o’clock and opposite, at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph counter resides. Both subdials are recessed and feature snailed detail. Blued hands doff their hat to traditional watchmaking craft and match the tincture of the central chronograph seconds hand. Everything about the dial display is harmonious.
Above 6 o’clock, a square aperture, outlined in black, plays host to the date display. Whilst this is a modular movement, the date does not sit too deep within the case and remains eminently simple to read.
Encircling the dial is a highly legible tachymeter scale. Whilst much detail is presented, the ease of read-off is fantastic and does not necessitate the use of a magnifying glass to discern pertinent information.
The case
The 42mm case diameter of the self-winding Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm is optimally sized for my larger than average wrist. This is a key attribute of this model and, in my opinion, delivers a benefit over the costlier hand-wound column-wheel chronograph with its smaller 40mm case. However, those of more diminutive stature may prefer the smaller sibling.
Girard-Perregaux offers a varied range of timepieces from the classical to contemporary, conventional to avant-garde, simple to complicated and affordable to seriously expensive. In this instance, the self-winding 1966 Chronograph delivers a hushed, dignified temperament. Whilst it is presented in a luxurious pink gold case, it never appears outré or excessively flamboyant. This is a watch that delivers a notable degree of decorum.
The crown (pulled out in the images herein to facilitate photographing), is discreet, congruent with the rest of the watch. The push-pieces are rectangular on their vertical plane, but with an arcing profile and rounded edges. Indeed, it is the design of the push-pieces which encourages the wearer to repeatedly actuate the chronograph such is the pleasing tactility they offer.
The horns are short, drawing the strap close to the case and encouraging the soft alligator leather to envelope the wrist with a cosseting embrace. Moreover, wearer comfort is enhanced by the curving profile of the case back which tapers upwards towards the edge of the case band, allowing free movement of the wrist. Girard-Perregaux has expended much effort on the minutiae and this is apparent within a few moments of association.
At the heart of the case back is a sapphire crystal, allowing the wearer to absorb the elevated craftsmanship pleasingly conferred to the manufacture movement within.
The movement
The self-winding Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm features an 18-carat pink gold oscillating mass, adorned with circular Côtes de Genève motif. Beneath the oscillating mass, bridges are decorated with straight Côtes de Genève motif, the contrast is exquisite.
Petit perlage graces the main plate, reaffirming the sense of matchless creation. This is a visual treat for the purist. Nevertheless, there is an elephant in the room, namely the modular construction of the GP 3300-0057 movement.
The cognoscenti will often talk of the superiority of a fully integrated movement. Indeed, I confess to enjoying the sight of a horizontal coupling, interfacing with the pillars of a column-wheel. This is an aspect of the hand-wound 1966 chronograph, I particularly appreciate. Furthermore, beyond the visual spectacle provided by a fully integrated movement, there is a buttery feel to the push-pieces which is very appealing. However, closing my eyes and setting aside any horological prejudices, the action of the push-pieces on the self-winding 1966 Chronograph is magnificent and, in my opinion, superior to the action of some fully integrated movements from lesser brands. Indeed, this is the reason why Girard-Perregaux is held in the highest of esteem, its mechanical virtuosity is beyond reproach.
Another benefit of fully integrated movements over modular chronograph movements is the reduced “stutter”. When a chronograph is actuated there will sometimes be a small stutter at the beginning of the timing phase. This, in theory, will be greater on modular movements.
I could dissect each movement in minute detail, but, in reality, this watch is primarily going to be selected for its aesthetic appearance. The GP 3800-0001 hand-wound movement within the column-wheel chronograph is theoretically better. However, the self-winding movement offers added convenience with little discernible disadvantage. Furthermore, it is cheaper to produce, an aspect reflected in the price of the watch, and will prove less onerous when servicing or repair becomes necessary.
Closing remarks
I have touched on the aspect of the price with the self-winding 1966 Chronograph and this makes a strong argument for acquisition. The UK RRP of £21,500 (as at 22.7.2014) provides a compelling case for ownership and looks especially good value when compared with offerings from other prestigious brands which populate the rarefied world of haute horologerie.
Some readers will favour the costlier Girard-Perregaux 1966 Column-Wheel Chronograph with its theoretically superior hand-wound movement. I understand the rationale for this position. However, with an asking price of £28,950 (RRP as at 22.7.2014), there is an opportunity cost in selecting this option, namely purchasing an additional watch.
This brings me to the ultimate question many readers will ponder, “Which model to select?” I would favour the self-winding 1966 Chronograph. It offers greater convenience courtesy of its automatic movement, the case diameter is a better for me personally and the saving enjoyed in purchasing this model would allow me to select a further timepiece. Indeed, like the proverbial ‘kid in a candy store’, I would have no trouble finding an additional piece to partner the GP at 155 Regent Street.
Technical Specification
- Model: Girard-Perregaux 1966 Chronograph 42mm
- Reference: 49542-52-151-BK6A
- Case: 18-carat pink gold; diameter 42.00 mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph.
- Movement: Calibre 3300-0057, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 57 jewels; power reserve 46 hours.
- Strap: Black alligator strap presented on a pink gold pin buckle.
- Price: £21,500 (RRP as at 22.7.2014)
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