Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 doffs its cap to the inaugural Laureato of 1975. However, this latest creation boasts a contemporary sandwich dial, Grade 5 Titanium case, a Manufacture movement and an innovative strap and clasp. And yet, despite its impressive specification, this model proves surprisingly affordable at £7200.
When some watch brands declare a product to be a resounding success, they have been known to play fast and loose with the truth. There are two ways to ascertain whether a timepiece is a genuine commercial success.
Firstly, how long has the model been available? A watch that has been in a brand’s collection for many years has probably enjoyed the sweet taste of sales success. Indeed, no watch company would choose to market a watch for many years if it was failing to sell.
Secondly, skilled marketing professionals usually fully exploit the reputation of a best selling timepiece. The inaugural model may be a three-hander in steel, but once it has proved successful, it won’t take long before the collection is enlarged to include different complications and case materials. Quite simply, the savviest brands will always maximise the potential of a successful model.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is no stranger to success. The first Laureato was launched in 1975, a three-hander powered by a quartz movement. Since its unveiling, the prestigious Manufacture has capitalised on its success, releasing a plethora of mechanical timepieces from simple time-only watches to über desirable skeleton and tourbillon models.
Eager to exploit the historical success of the Laureato, the brand ‘extended’ the model range in 2019 with the advent of the Laureato Absolute. This model looked sportier than the 1975 reference and was a tad less formal, potentially appealing to a younger clientele. Furthermore, it was ideally suited to aquatic environments, courtesy of its impressive 300m water resistance. The Maison initially showcased three models of the Laureato Absolute: a three-hander, a chronograph and a worldtimer. Since 2019, the historic brand has released several other Laureato Absolute models, some of which have encompassed ground-breaking materials such as ‘Carbon Glass’.
Now, the Swiss marque has released the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230. Its octagonal bezel upholds the design language of the 1975 model. However, this latest creation brims with modernity. The sandwich dial comprises two layers, one positioned atop the other. The upper layer features perforations which allows the lower membrane to peep through, thereby indicating the hours. Adjacent to the hour markers, a splash of luminescent material aids nocturnal readability. By adopting the two-layer dial construction, Girard-Perregaux has imbued the dial with becoming depths, heightening the visual charm of the watch.
The case is made of Grade 5 Titanium, a lightweight alloy that is strong, not susceptible to corrosion and hypoallergenic. Girard-Perregaux has employed a sandblasted finish throughout, save for various polished facets.
The three hands and date are driven by a self-winding Manufacture movement, the calibre GP03300-1060. The calibre has appeared in various guises over the years and is known to be a very reliable movement, albeit that should come as no surprise as the Maison is currently celebrating its 230th anniversary.
Girard-Perregaux has always been at the vanguard of horological advancement. In this instance, the firm has equipped the watch with a rubber strap containing titanium, a groundbreaking combination. The strap is paired with a titanium folding clasp with an ingenious micro-adjustment system allowing the wearer to adjust the strap, affording a precise, comfortable fit.
There is nothing perfunctory about the Laureato Absolute Ti 230. Its two-storey dial structure enriches the model’s overall appearance. The Grade 5 titanium case provides several benefits, as previously stated, but ordinarily attracts a premium. However, this model retails for just £7200 (RRP as at 9.8.2021) which represents remarkable value, especially when considering the watch’s specification and the revered status of Girard-Perregaux. Indeed, based on the evidence, the Laureato success story seems destined to continue.
The brand’s press release
Girard-Perregaux was founded 230 years ago in 1791, the same year an English clergyman, William Gregor, discovered titanium in Cornwall. With the release of the Laureato Absolute Ti 230, the new model unites the Manufacture’s know-how with the lightweight element. The resultant two watches are contemporary, rich in character and repeatedly play with contrasting shades and shapes. Further highlighting this important anniversary, the Ti 230 blue dial reference will be distributed exclusively through Wempe for the first month following its launch.
This year marks the 230th anniversary of Girard-Perregaux. As part of its celebrations, the Manufacture is revisiting its iconic models and releasing a number of new creations. The story of the Maison began in 1791 when Jean-François Bautte, aged just 19, produced his first pocket watch. However, the most romantic chapter in the brand’s history is when Constant Girard married Marie Perregaux in 1854, culminating in the birth of one of the greatest names in watchmaking.
In 1791, clearly a remarkable year, an English clergyman, William Gregor, discovered a black sand called menachanite in Cornwall. He analysed it and concluded that it contained oxides of iron and an unknown metal. This metal was subsequently identified as titanium, an element named after the Titans, the children of Uranus and Gaea in Greek mythology. Today, titanium is widely used, not only in watchmaking but also in the fields of aerospace, medicine and motorsport, selected for its array of benefits.
The Laureato Absolute Ti 230 unites the two stories of Girard-Perregaux and William Gregor, drawing on know-how amassed over 230 years. Titanium comes in many forms, sometimes alloyed with other elements. Girard- Perregaux prefers to use Grade 5 titanium as it is particularly strong, corrosion resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic; attributes that enrich the wearer’s experience.
Another reason for using Grade 5 titanium is that the metal can be polished. Girard-Perregaux presents the Laureato Absolute Ti 230 in a 44mm lightly sandblasted case that encompasses polished facets, providing a beautiful gleam and subtle contrast. Successfully combining both types of finish proves more demanding, however, as Girard-Perregaux has repeatedly shown, it never shies from a challenge.
Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, remarks, “With the release of the Laureato Absolute Ti 230 we wanted to create a new version of our iconic watch from 1975. This model is modern but encompasses traditional craftsmanship. The sandwich dial construction and GP’s world-premiere Rubber Alloy strap, this time incorporating titanium, are further sumptuous details that also feature on this watch. Finally, while the price may be more inclusive, the quality remains typically Girard-Perregaux and the watch feels just as exclusive as our other models.”
Kim-Eva Wempe, managing owner of Gerhard D. Wempe KG of Wempe, comments, “Once again, Girard- Perregaux kindly approached us and offered exclusivity for this new model prior to its worldwide launch. We are delighted to have this opportunity and we appreciate the close working relationship we enjoy with Girard- Perregaux, forged over several years but solidified last year when we were fortunate to become their exclusive retailer across Germany.”
The combination of curves and lines are juxtaposed with the octagonal bezel and crown, beautifully playing with contrasts. The Laureato Absolute Ti 230 is available with a choice of a blue or grey dial, augmenting eye-appeal. For the first time, the Maison offers a Laureato Absolute where the crown is encircled with a rubber ring, matching the hue of the rubber strap. This detail may not be obvious at first glance, but it will be familiar to those in the know.
The dial is of a sandwich-type construction, comprised of an upper layer, perforated with numerous openings, sat upon a lower layer. The apertures in the upper layer afford partial sight of the lower layer, presented in grey. By adopting this design approach, the apertures form recessed luminescent baton-type indexes, wonderfully playing with depths, thereby heightening the overall appearance of the dial.
Beating at the heart of the Laureato Absolute Ti 230 is a self-winding Manufacture movement, the Calibre GP03300-1060. It contains 218 components, all produced to Girard-Perregaux’s exacting standards.
Upholding Laureato tradition, the strap is integrated, a characteristic found on the original model released in 1975. The strap, made of GP Rubber Alloy, this time containing titanium, perfectly matches the colour of the dial, and features a fabric effect texture, tastefully enlivened with grey stitching. Girard-Perregaux, consistent with its no-compromise attitude, has selected FKM rubber, a specification that provides greater suppleness and resistance than conventional rubber. The Manufacture has chosen to pair the strap with a titanium folding clasp with a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to fine tune the size to deliver the optimal wrist fit.
The Laureato Absolute Ti 230, as previously stated, is offered in two variants, blue and grey. Each option is limited to 230 pieces.
The blue dial version of the Laureato Absolute Ti 230 will be sold exclusively by Wempe for one month in its ten boutiques across Germany as well as its flagship stores in New York and London. Thereafter, the model will be available in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers and on the brand’s e-commerce site.
With immediate effect, the grey dial version is available in all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers as well as the brand’s e-commerce site.
Further reading