Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 Watch Review
The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 is a fascinating chronograph, featuring a case composed of both zirconia ceramic and ‘high-intensity titanium’. The smooth nature of the case on timepiece, along with the sweet action of the chronograph pushpieces leads Angus Davies to describe the watch as a ‘smooth operator’.
This detailed review of the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 includes live images, specification details and pricing.
I have recently acquired a new pair of spectacles. The lenses are thicker than those fitted to my previous glasses, a sign that with advancing years the efficacy of my sight is diminishing. However, I am pleased to say that I continue to enjoy 20/20 tactile discernment. With my outstretched forefinger I can soon distinguish between rough and smooth surfaces as well as the silky action of a column-wheel chronograph.
Zaratsu polishing, or blade polishing, is a technique involving the polishing of steel or titanium using a rotating tin plate. The skilled artisan entrusted with this task has acquired the necessary expertise over a number of years in order to practice the polishing method. Great care is exercised, holding the watch case against the revolving tin plate at a specific angle in order to achieve an infinitesimally smooth, mirror-like gleam.
A few years ago, mesmerised by the smoothness of a titanium Grand Seiko SBGA011, I succumbed to temptation and acquired this incredibly handsome watch. I continue to paw at its sinuous lines, admiring its smooth flanks and marvelling at the finish presented. Indeed, I can think of few other titanium watch cases which exhibit such exalted smoothness.
Earlier this year, Grand Seiko unveiled a series of limited edition models, delivered in neoteric black ceramic cases. The material seemed a radical departure for the Japanese watch company which has always delivered models with a tasteful dose of conservatism. However, based on my predilection for GS watches, I felt compelled to examine one of these sporty timepieces and focused my attention on a chronograph presented with a black dial and brown leather strap.
The dial
The dial resembles a sea of deep, ebony blackness. The neighbouring black ceramic bezel, together with the significant space between the sapphire crystal and the dial epidermis, heighten the abyss-like quality of the display. However, the silver-toned applied indexes and dauphine-style hands shine resplendently against the darkness, exploiting contrast with aplomb and communicating with breathtaking clarity.
Grand Seiko has always been renown for delivering watches with sublime readability and with the new SBGC015 the brand upholds this reputation. One reason for the impressive lucidity of the dial relates to the numerous sparkling facets applied to the hands and indexes. Each bevelled surface seeks out ambient light and refracts it to retina-searing effect, ensuring the wearer can readily discern the time.
The asymmetric topography of the dial may not be to everyone’s liking, especially those purists who covet symmetrical displays. However, I personally find the slightly idiosyncratic design of the SBGC015 to be endearing. Two chronograph registers, a 30-minute chronograph register and a 12-hour chronograph register, sit line astern on the right hand side of the dial. Located at 7 o’clock is a power reserve indicator, featuring an arcing scale.
Residing at 9 o’clock is a very interesting small seconds display. A twin-tipped small seconds hand rotates with each tip taking turns to interface with a semi-circular scale. In isolation this may sound a small detail but, together with the many other smile-inducing design elements, the dial delivers a fascinating and highly likeable horological vista.
A gleaming metal frame adorns the aperture at 3 o’clock, proclaiming the date with a flourish of style. Each of the white numerals presented on the black date disc have been optimally styled and sized to augment ease of interpretation.
The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 features a supremely slender central chronograph hand with a tiny, diamond shape counterweight at one end. Its lithe profile makes reading off elapsed seconds child’s play. In addition, this timepiece is also equipped with another useful function, a GMT hand, featuring an ebullient red-tipped hand.
The case
At first glance, the case of the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 appears to be solely black ceramic, however, this is not so.
The caseband, lugs and bezel are formed of zirconia ceramic, while the inner case is made of ‘high-intensity titanium’. This fusion of materials results in a total mass which is 25% lighter than steel. Moreover, zirconia ceramic is reputed to be ‘stronger and tougher than any other fine ceramic and seven times harder on the Vickers scale than stainless steel.’
By using zirconia ceramic, the lugs, caseband and bezel, arguably those case components most vulnerable to abrasion and impacts, are less prone to scratches and damage. Conversely, the caseback which is in contact with the skin is formed of titanium, a lightweight metal known for its hypoallergenic properties.
Again, Grand Seiko has drawn on the expertise of time-served artisans to craft the ceramic components. Each part has wonderfully defined, crisp edges and the surface of the ceramic is uniform and distortion-free. Furthermore, the profile of the caseband subscribes to the brand’s ‘curved sideline’ design language, providing a visual connection with Grand Seiko’s more conventional timepieces.
Interestingly, Grand Seiko has not sought to ‘play it safe’ with the SBGC015. It could have chosen a more conventional dial design and used steel for the case construction. However, I am glad it has been courageous because the result is magnificent. The scale of the watch is much larger than any other Grand Seiko timepiece I can call to memory, measuring 46.4mm in diameter. Personally, I found the scale of the watch very agreeable, but I do concede that some would-be wearers may find the sheer bulk of this model possibly too large.
Gracing the dorsal flank of the case, a large sapphire crystal accords sight of the self-winding movement within.
The movement
The Caliber 9R96 Spring Drive Chronograph GMT is a technical tour de force. While it is powered by a conventional oscillating mass, its similarities to a conventional watch movement end there.
I have discussed Spring Drive when reviewing the SBGA011 allowing readers to immerse themselves in a technical fest like no other.
Whilst most watches employ a Swiss lever escapement to regulate the movement, the Spring Drive takes a different path. The mainspring within a Spring Drive movement drives the gears, causing the hands to rotate. However, a small portion of energy from the mainspring is sent to an integrated circuit which in turn powers the Tri-Synchro Regulator. The Tri-Synchro Regulator serves the same role as a conventional escapement, however, in this instance it consists of an electromagnetic brake which regulates the unwinding of the mainspring.
By adopting this unique approach, Grand Seiko delivers a level of precision which surpasses any other spring-powered timepiece. Moreover, in this latest iteration, the Caliber 9R96, the accuracy usurps the highly impressive precision of other Spring Drive calibres, namely ±10 seconds per month. Grand Seiko celebrate this level of precision by fitting an 18-carat gold lion motif on the oscillating mass.
Another technical triumph of this movement relates to the operation of the pushpieces. The chronograph is of the column-wheel variety with a vertical clutch. When actuating the stopwatch function the central chronograph hand commences its journey with a stutter-free start. Furthermore, pressing the pushpieces rewards the wearer with a smooth, positive action sometimes lacking with cheaper modular chronographs.
Grand Seiko has beautifully decorated the Caliber 9R96 with sparkling stripes, similar to Geneva waves in concept. They adorn the oscillating mass and bridges. The fine lines which occupy each stripe delightfully engage with light, magnificently diffusing the various frequencies of the optical spectrum to bestow yellow and violet hues. The column-wheel is freely visible and the bridges are beautifully bevelled and shine with brilliant facets.
Closing remarks
The Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015 is a bold departure for the Japanese watch company. It looks very different to any other Grand Seiko timepiece. The use of black ceramic imbues this model with a contemporary character.
While the Japanese company may have embraced modernity with the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015, it has not eschewed the brand’s tradition for readability. Indeed, the dial is very simple to read. The positioning of the chronograph registers on the right hand side of the case delivers a degree of individuality I find most agreeable.
Grand Seiko has cleverly paired zirconia ceramic with titanium case components to deliver both lightness, robustness and, in particular, scratch resistance. The smoothness of the case is incredible and shares a similarly silken character to the operation of the chronograph pushpieces. Indeed, this glorious timepiece could be aptly described as a ‘smooth operator’.
Technical Specification
- Model: Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition SBGC015
- Reference: SBGC015
- Case: Zirconia ceramic and ‘high-intensity titanium’; diameter 46.4 mm; height 16.1 mm; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; power-reserve indicator; chronograph; GMT.
- Movement: Calibre 9R96, self-winding movement; Spring Drive; 50 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
- Strap: Brown crocodile leather strap with push button release
- Price: £10,000.00 (as at 17.10.2016)
- Limited Edition: 500 pieces