Grand Seiko SBGR325 Watch Reviews
Grand Seiko SBGR325 and the Grand Seiko SBGH311 are two new additions to the Japanese marque’s portfolio of nature-inspired models. Both watches feature Swiss lever escapements, one operating at a frequency of 4Hz and the other oscillating at 5Hz.
Grand Seiko movements
Grand Seiko‘s portfolio of movements is more extensive than most of its rivals. Spring Drive, quartz, dual-impulse escapement and the venerable Swiss lever escapement ably meet most horophile’s needs.
Calibre 9SA5
When the Japanese brand unveiled the Calibre 9SA5 dual impulse escapement in 2020, I waxed lyrical about its many attributes. A free-sprung balance, overcoil, 5Hz frequency, slim horizontal gear train and twin barrels, all skilfully unite to deliver exceptional performance. Most notably, the escapement delivers an indirect impulse to the balance when it rotates in one direction and a direct impulse when it rotates in the opposite direction. With its notable precision and impressive 80-hour power reserve, the Calibre 9SA5 movement is a horological tour de force. Indeed, I freely admit that the SLGH005 White Birch, featuring the Calibre 9SA5, is near the top of my wish list.
Spring Drive
The company’s proprietary Spring Drive system does not follow the well-trodden path taken by others. On the contrary, it fuses ‘mechanical and electronic watchmaking’, a combination that delivers extraordinary precision. Having visited the brand’s production facilities in Japan and witnessed first-hand the company’s watchmaking expertise at close quarters, I knew I wanted a Grand Seiko Spring Drive to add to my modest watch collection (Mrs D take note).
However, while the Calibre 9SA5 (dual-impulse escapement) and the Spring Drive system monopolise the dance floor with legions of suitors forming a queue, there are some other beauties standing in the shadows, deserving of attention. For instance, the Calibre 9S65 and Calibre 9S85 are equipped with the ubiquitous, tried and trusted Swiss lever escapement. Both movements are Grand Seiko staples that have delivered delight for many years.
Calibre 9S85
The Calibre 9S85 is a self-winding movement, ticking at 8 beats per second, 28,800 vph (4Hz), a cadence often seen within the watch industry. Equipped with one barrel, the movement, once fully wound, will run autonomously for 72 hours. The brand states the mean daily rate as +5 to -3 seconds per day. Grand Seiko has used MEMS technology (also known as LIGA technology) to produce some ultra-light, intricately shaped components, including the escape wheel and pallet lever. The teeth of the escape wheel incorporate small recesses that retain lubricant more effectively, thereby mitigating wear and friction as well as reducing power consumption. Moreover, the openworked structure of these components culminates in a lower mass, once again, reducing power consumption. These characteristics demonstrate Grand Seiko’s fastidious attention to detail and unwavering quest for excellence.
Image – Calibre 9S85 within the Grand Seiko SBGR325
Calibre 9S65
The Calibre 9S65 is also automatic, ticking at 10 beats per seconds, 36,000 vph (5Hz). This frequency is less common as it presents various technical challenges, including increased wear, increased energy consumption and a propensity to quaff lubricants. However, Grand Seiko has surmounted such problems, partly because of its use of MEMS technology. As a result, its 5Hz movements are known for their precision and reliability. Grand Seiko state the mean daily rate as +5 to -3 seconds per day, the same as the 4Hz movement, however, this is not quite the full story. The 5Hz or hi-beat movement is more precise in a dynamic situation ie when worn, rather than merely on a test instrument. Moreover, the balance is less susceptible to shocks and less prone to positional errors. Given a choice, I would always favour the Calibre 9S65 over the Calibre 9S85.
Image – Calibre 9S65 within the Grand Seiko SBGH311
Grand Seiko SBGH311
This brings me to two new models from Grand Seiko, the SBGR325 and the SBGH311. The latter model is equipped with the 5Hz movement, while the Grand Seiko SBGR325 features the Calibre 9S85 (4Hz). Based on my aforementioned comments, I should favour the Grand Seiko SBGH311 with its hi-beat movement, however, like many watch obsessives, I don’t restrict my affections merely to a model’s movement. Quite simply, the pale blue dial of the Grand Seiko SBGR325 is my preferred option. Appointed with a sunray finish, the dial is said to have been inspired by the appearance of the clear sky ‘seen from the top of Mt. Iwate’. Setting aside the marketing-fuelled description, the dial is gorgeous.
The Grand Seiko SBGH311 also takes inspiration from nature. In this instance, the silver-toned dial features an intricate pattern, said to replicate the appearance of the clouds that cover Mt. Iwate.
Both models feature the brand’s legendary high-gleam Dauphine-style hour and minute hands and radiant, multi-faceted indexes. Furthermore, both models are housed in stainless steel. Each ownership option looks enticing, albeit the Grand Seiko SBGR325 is my favourite. Unfortunately, both models have a case diameter of 37mm which is not compatible with my leviathan wrists, so on this occasion, I won’t be sending any begging letters to Mrs D. However, an SBGR325 in a 42mm case and equipped with the Calibre 9S65….ah.. I’d do the ironing for a month and all of those DIY jobs I’ve been putting off.
Further reading
https://www.grandseikoboutique.uk/
Technical specifications
- Model: Grand Seiko SBGR325
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 37mm, height 13.3mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), dual-curve sapphire crystal to front; sapphire caseback
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre 9S85, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 35 jewels, power reserve 72 hours
- Bracelet: stainless steel with three-fold clasp with push-button release
- Price: £4,900 (RRP as of 16.1.2023)
- Limited Edition: 1200 pieces
- Model: Grand Seiko SBGH311
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 37mm, height 13.3mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), dual-curve sapphire crystal to front; sapphire caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date
- Movement: Calibre 9S65, self-winding movement, frequency 36,000 vph (5Hz), 37 jewels, power reserve 55 hours
- Bracelet: stainless steel with three-fold clasp with push-button release
- Price: £6,150 (RRP as of 16.1.2023)
- Limited Edition: 1200 pieces