Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki
The new Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models uphold the Japanese brand’s reputation for making beautifully engineered, highly precise and super legible watches. Referencing nature with their air and earth-themed dials, these models are rich in virtue and with a modest asking price of £4,460 each, they both make a compelling argument for acquisition.
It is sometimes difficult to believe that Grand Seiko was only founded in 1960. Compared to its German and Swiss counterparts, GS is a relative newcomer to the high-end watchmaking scene. Just a few years ago, in my native England, the brand was mainly the preserve of informed watch obsessives. Now, the secret is out and legions of horophiles have discovered the delights of GS ownership.
But what makes Grand Seiko special? Firstly, nature
Similar to a fine wine being influenced by the terroir, Grand Seiko watches are heavily influenced by nature. The ‘snowflake’, the ‘black stream’, ‘sakura’ (cherry blossom) and white birch trees have proved a rich source of inspiration for the firm when designing dials.
Grand Seiko has also looked at the interaction between light and shadow, as well as the numerous shades in between. Recently, the luxury brand released two hand-wound models referencing the air (Kuuki) and the earth (Tsuji). The Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji features a rich brown dial while the SBGW291 Kuuki is presented in a light, silvery hue.
Celebrating the brand’s patrimony
In 1967, Grand Seiko released the iconic 44GS, a watch that defined the Grand Seiko style, a visually recognisable ‘grammar’ that continues to endure. The design language encompassed flat surfaces, which are mirror-polished and distortion-free, a recessed crown, multifaceted hands and indexes and, lastly, a supremely graceful, arcing caseband.
Over the years, Grand Seiko has celebrated the anniversary of this 1967 model, presenting a number of 44GS-inspired creations in a variety of sizes and metals. With the SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki, the Japanese marque celebrates the 55th anniversary of the 44GS. Moreover, Grand Seiko has respected the modest scale of the original (37.9mm), presenting both new models in a period-inspired size measuring 36.5mm.
Zaratsu polishing
Both the SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models are housed in stainless steel cases which are enlivened with gleaming mirror-polished surfaces. Termed zaratsu polishing, a technique that was first employed on a GS model in 1964, the GS Self-Dater, the resultant finish differentiates GS from many of its contemporaries.
The first Grand Seiko cases were polished using a machine made by Sallaz Brothers, a company based in Switzerland. In Japan, the name of the Swiss firm was mispronounced ‘zaratsu’, a term that has since become part of GS parlance. These types of machine feature a vertically-aligned rotating disc that is painted with an abrasive liquid. The skilled craftsperson places the case in a hand-held holder and then positions it against the wheel. The objective is to polish the case to a mirror-like gleam and accentuate the interface between two intersecting planes.
Interestingly, the time-served craftspeople are able to polish steel, gold and platinum using this technique despite each metal having its own unique characteristics.
The SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki also feature finely brushed (hairline) surfaces that contrast with the neighbouring Zaratsu polished case areas, augmenting eye-appeal.
The Calibre 9S64 hand-wound movement
Grand Seiko produces an extensive array of in-house movements: quartz, mechanical (4Hz and 5Hz) and Spring Drive. Furthermore, the company produces mechanical movements in both automatic and hand-wound form.
Both the SBGW293 Tsuji and the SBGW291 Kuuki are equipped with the Calibre 9S64 hand-wound movement. Similar to many Swiss movements, the mainplate is circular-grained while the bridges are adorned with parallel lines, similar to Côtes de Genève motif.
Grand Seiko state the ‘mean daily rate’ is +5 to -3 seconds per day (evaluated in static conditions, in six positions, over a 12 day period). The brand also quotes a ‘normal usage accuracy’ of +10 to -1 seconds per day (typical of normal daily wear). Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for approximately 72 hours.
One of the endearing characteristics of GS ownership is the brand’s obsessive attention to detail. For instance, the grooves between the teeth on the gear train are polished, mitigating friction and thereby reducing energy consumption.
The Calibre 9S64 features a Swiss lever escapement featuring an escape wheel and pallet lever that are intricately formed using MEMS technology, a lithographic process. These components are partially openworked, delivering useful weight savings, which again reduces energy consumption. In addition, the teeth of the escape wheel incorporate small recesses that retain lubricants for longer periods, reducing friction and wear.
World-class accuracy, legibility and beauty
When Grand Seiko was established, the firm put in place three guiding principles: ‘world-class accuracy’, ‘legibility’ and ‘beauty’. Over the years, GS has released numerous models all of which have met these criteria again and again. The firm has respected traditions and celebrated Japanese culture, but it has also repeatedly shown a willingness to embrace innovation when this delivers advancement.
Grand Seiko’s horological prowess has led to the company receiving numerous awards. Most notably, the firm has enjoyed much success at the prestigious GPHG awards. In addition, numerous magazines and websites have waxed lyrical about the Japanese marque. Indeed, the excellence of its products is now familiar to an increasing number of watch aficionados. Based on the evidence, I’m sure the new SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models will perpetuate the brand’s coveted reputation.
Further reading
https://www.grandseikoboutique.uk/
Technical specifications
- Model: Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji (brown dial) / Grand Seiko SBGW291 Kuuki (silver dial)
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 36.5mm; height 11.6mm; water resistance 10ATM (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front; screw caseback.
- Functions: hours; minutes; central seconds
- Movement: Calibre 9S64; hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 24 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
- Strap: Crocodile leather strap with three-fold clasp with push button release
- Price: £4,460 – (RRP as of 8.8.2022)