Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir
Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is an eye-catching new model, drawing on the talents of the Jura-based watch brand and the Genevan watch customisation specialist. Featuring contrasting glossy and brushed dial elements, a black PVD coated case and a Sellita SW266-1 calibre, this latest watch has many virtues but, consistent with other Louis Erard products, still proves accessibly priced.
When it comes to football, it is not uncommon to see a young school boy attempt to tackle his opponents alone and try to assume each positional role. Eventually, having tasted defeat on several occasions, the youngster inevitably comes to the realisation that football is a team sport.
In the world of commerce, especially within the upper echelons of luxury, brands will often work with one another. For example, prestigious car marques and customisation specialists frequently collaborate. Starting with an executive saloon, the two firms working together can transform it from a sedate autobahn express into a fire-breathing supercar, capable of lapping the Nürburgring Nordschleife at breakneck speed. By joining forces, the synergistic results will invariably surpass the efforts of both firms working in isolation.
Louis Erard – working with third parties
Louis Erard, the Swiss watch brand from Le Noirmont has repeatedly worked with third parties when developing new models. Under the watchful eye of Manuel Emch, the ‘director and artistic director’ of the luxury firm, the company has produced some highly original designs. In recent years, the Maison has worked with Alain Silberstein, Eric Giroud, Massena Lab, atelier oï, Seconde Seconde and Vianney Halter and the results have often proved spectacular. Indeed, this strategy of pooling talents has delivered some impressive results.
Affordable and rare – an unusual combination
These co-branded models have delivered much whilst remaining notably accessible. Indeed, Louis Erard has repeatedly coupled value with exclusivity, a very rare combination. Take, for example, the recent Le Régulateur Blanc Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, the model retailed for CHF4,000, however, only 178 pieces were made. These watches disappeared like snow in summer, selling out within the blink of an eye. Needless to say, prices of pre-owned examples now trade for more than the original retail price.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir – the latest collaboration
Recently, Louis Erard collborated with the Genevan firm, Label Noir, a company that has spent the last 10 years at the forefront of customisation. In this instance, by pooling resources, the creative duo have crafted an interesting take on the regulator.
Regulators have been used for hundreds of years as a point of reference when setting other clocks or watches. For instance, Thomas Tompion (1639 – 1713) created an early balance spring pocket watch (circa 1675-1679) equipped with a ‘regulator’ type dial. This watch is now part of the collection owned by the Science Museum in London.
On a regulator timepiece, the minute hand is usually dominant with the hour hand playing a subservient role. Louis Erard, a leading exponent of regulator watches, subscribes to the aforementioned style, but has repeatedly endowed each reference with its own, eye-catching appearance. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir proves no exception.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir – dial
Consistent with other regulator watches, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir features an oversized minute hand. In this instance, it is presented in a highly polished form and is fitted with the brand’s signature fir tree hands.
Located in the northern reaches of the dial, the hours are shown on a glossy black, off-centre display, framed with a silver-toned circlet. A short hour hand, once again silver-coloured, sits at the heart of this display and converses with white markings. Save for the hour and minutes display, the epidermis of the dial is presented in a vertically brushed finish. It serves to temper the glossy sheen of the hour display, thereby contributing to the harmonious vista presented.
The seconds indication, once again, employs a fir tree hand to impart meaning, albeit, in this instance, it is dressed in acid green. The seconds track features acid green dots and super-crisp white markings. Lastly, the dial is framed with a two-tone minute track, marked with acid green and white dots. The resultant appearance is ultra-modern.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir – case in black PVD coating
This model is housed in a sandblasted stainless steel case treated with black PVD coating. Despite its fresh and neoteric appearance, this 42mm case has previously seen service, albeit in a polished form sans coating. By repurposing a ‘standard’ case, the brand can enjoy economies of scale, thereby mitigating costs. The result is a strategy that facilitates keen pricing devoid of compromise.
The crown is embellished with the company’s fir tree motif, while the caseback is fitted with a pane of sapphire crystal featuring a green tint. The strap is black nylon with a calf leather lining and is enlivened with eye-popping green stitches.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir – Sellita SW266-1 calibre
Louis Erard has close ties with movement specialist, Sellita. Indeed, when I have previously spoken to Manuel Emch, he has frequently referred to Sellita as a ‘partner’, a term he uses for his most trusted and respected suppliers.
It is not the first time the brand has used the Sellita SW266-1 calibre. In fact, looking back at former reviews of Louis Erard’s watches, it soon becomes apparent the firm has used the self-winding movement on several occasions. The rationale is simple, this movement delivers an impressive quality-price ratio while proving reliable and precise. Moreover, with parts and servicing being widely available, Louis Erard’s decision to use the SW266-1 calibre makes much sense.
Closing remarks
Louis Erard has an impressive track record of working with other parties. The synergistic benefits of this approach have delivered some highly original compositions coupled with an impressive quality-price ratio.
In the case of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir, the watch proves simple to read and the case size should suit most wrist sizes. However, where this timepiece stands out from the crowd is that it’s blessed with a bewitching combination of hues, two contrasting forms of dial finish and a restrained case that serves to accentuate the effervescent character of the dial.
The model’s colourway imbues the design with a contemporary, almost avant-garde look. Reassuringly the notable style of this watch has not come at the expense of practicality. In fact, this is a watch that is perfectly suited to daily wear.
Louis Erard has an enviable record of making limited editions that sell-out very quickly after they are released. Based on the impressive array of attributes, I suspect Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir will follow suit.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir
- Reference: 85237NN57
- Case: stainless steel with black PVD coating; diameter 42 mm; height 12.25mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Sellita SW261-1 calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 31 jewels; power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Black nylon with green stitching, black calf leather lining, sandblasted stainless steel pin buckle with black PVD coating, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
- Price: CHF 3,500 (RRP as of 31.8.2022)
- Limited Edition: 178 pieces