Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie Watch Review
The Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie is the latest timepiece to emanate from the brand’s Jura-based atelier. Since his arrival in 2019, Manuel Emch has amazed watch aficionados by releasing an array of models featuring artistic crafts. With this latest model, the Maison has delivered the undeliverable, a watch with a marquetry dial, usually the preserve of Haute Horlogerie, and priced it at less than CHF 4,000. Angus Davies tries to understand how Emch and his colleagues have achieved this remarkable feat.
The importance of pricing
In a capitalist society, the supply and demand for goods and services determine the prevailing price. However, this is not quite the full story. It assumes that all parties have a complete understanding of the marketplace, something that is not always the case.
On some occasions, the advent of new technology undermines the status quo. Likewise, politics, societal changes or even freak weather can cause prices to rise or fall. There is also the unusual situation with some luxury goods where high prices actually serve to heighten demand, contrary to economic theory. Sadly, six-figure price tags do not guarantee virtue.
Nevertheless, through experience, we have become accustomed to the prevailing prices for some products, especially those objects we buy on a frequent basis, for example beer!
Manuel Emch
Founded in 1929, Louis Erard has long been known for making attractive and affordable watches. However, in April 2019, Manuel Emch, a veteran of the watch industry, began advising the company and ultimately took it in a new direction. Initially, engaged as ‘Strategist and Artistic Director’, Emch later assumed the title of ‘Delegate Member of the Board of Directors’.
Shortly after his arrival, Emch’s remarkable creativity came to the fore. Historically, the Maison crafted traditional, conservatively styled timepieces. Suddenly, Louis Erard began releasing contemporary, thought-provoking watches, many of which were limited-editions. Some designs were very much Emch’s own work, but he was also receptive to working with others.
Watch collaborations
Collaborating with Eric Giroud, Vianey Halter, Alain Silberstein, Label Noir, Massena Lab, seconde/seconde and atelier oï, Emch has repeatedly shown a willingness to work with third parties, especially when it delivers something new and fresh.
Louis Erard, a ‘disruptor’ since 2019
In creating thought-provoking designs, whether working alone or with others, Emch has also introduced a degree of flux within the watch industry. Emch has shown that desirable watches do not need to be eye-wateringly expensive. Indeed, since 2019, Louis Erard has democratised luxury watchmaking.
Métiers d’art
A few years ago, I interviewed Manuel Emch and he stated that the brand would venture into the esoteric worlds of stone dials and métiers d’art. I must confess, at the time, I wasn’t convinced that he would pull it off without venturing into a world of five-figure pricing. However, Emch, clearly a disruptor, has repeatedly shown that my scepticism was misplaced. In recent years, Louis Erard has indulged horophiles with mouthwatering delights such as grand feu enamel and hand-guilloché dials, all offered at affordable prices.
Now, Emch and Louis Erard have been causing more disruption, releasing 99 pieces endowed with marquetry dials. I’ve always admired watches with wooden marquetry dials, but I’ve also recognised that they are beyond my financial grasp. The examples I have seen at close quarters have cost north of £50K, with some even attracting six-figure pricing. I was somewhat surprised, therefore, when I heard that the Swiss Maison had just released the Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie for CHF 3,900 (RRP as of 24.3.2023). Sure, there’s a bit of tax to be added, but come on, less than CHF 4,000! What is going on? Allow me to elaborate.
What is a marquetry dial?
Marquetry is the process of cutting out wooden veneers using a scalpel and assembling them on a flat surface to form a pattern. Sometimes the pattern can emulate the appearance of an animal, flower or another scene. Usually, this form of artistic craft is undertaken by a cabinetmaker who applies the technique to furniture, music boxes, cigar boxes and, in this instance, watches. On this occasion, Louis Erard has engaged the services of Bastien Chevalier, an artisan renowned for crafting intricate dials, some of which grace the finest Haute Horlogerie creations.
Bastien Chevalier
The art of marquetry involves using a series of wooden sheets or veneers, arranged on top of each other and nailed together. Using a previously traced design, the wood is cut to shape, in the direction of the grain, by hand using a saw. The tolerances are minuscule, said to be 0.1mm. Consistent with other artisans that do hand engraving or craft miniature sculptures, Chevalier employs conscious breathing while carrying out critical tasks, a technique that he has honed to mitigate unwanted hand tremors.
The cut pieces of wood, over 70 for each timepiece, are then assembled. Despite working to exacting tolerances, there may be a minuscule error or an unwanted fissure, resulting in the cut piece being discarded. The pieces are affixed to a mount using glue applied to the reverse of each wooden component. This process is performed using a microscope, the tip of a scalpel and an inordinate amount of patience. Ultimately the mount is secured to the metal dial surface and, thereafter, carefully sanded to infinitesimal tolerances. Everything is completed to a peerless standard.
Geometric dial
Consistent with other Louis Erard watches produced during the Emch era, the Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie is unabashedly contemporary. Embracing a geometric design, the dial’s checkerboard motif toys with the observer’s perception of depths and perspectives. Indeed, the pattern could even be described as a ‘trompe-l’oeil’.
Fir-tree hands
The various cube-shaped sections are depicted in four shades, grey-stained willow burl and tulip tree in three tints of blue. The Maison’s signature fir-tree hands, presented in blued steel, impart meaning. Louis Erard has chosen not to incorporate hour markers or a small seconds display on this occasion, thereby ensuring that no elements detract from the artistic canvas presented.
Reassuringly familiar
One of the secrets to Louis Erard’s successful egalitarian approach to pricing can be attributed to economies of scale. Indeed, the case of this latest model has been employed on other Louis Erard references. The crown, with its sapin-themed grip has also featured on several of the brand’s previous models.
Sellita SW 261-1 calibre
To the rear of the watch, a pane of blue-tinted sapphire crystal affords sight of a self-winding movement, the Sellita SW 261-1 calibre. Louis Erard and Sellita, the Swiss movement specialist, have forged a close relationship over recent years, with Louis Erard equipping several references with the personalised Sellita SW 261-1 calibre, once again, enjoying economies of scale.
Using components for several models has allowed the watch brand to proffer keenly priced timepieces that are imbued with Swiss quality. However, as the brand’s recent releases demonstrate, seeking economies of scale has not impeded creativity.
Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie – closing remarks
Marquetry, like Grand Feu enamel and hand guilloché dials, is usually the preserve of Haute Horlogerie. Like many horophiles, I appreciate the charm of these artistic crafts, but sadly I’ve come to accept that my personal finances preclude acquisition. Resigned to my situation, I could never have imagined owning an exemplar of métiers d’art, until now. Once again, Louis Erard has made the hitherto unobtainable, affordable.
Image – Bastien Chevalier
I was already aware of Bastien Chevalier’s work. He is a man at the top of his game, entrusted by some of the most prestigious watch firms with creating small numbers of marquetry dials. His portfolio includes dials depicting wildlife scenes and musical instruments using numerous, individually cut pieces of wood. While the geometric pattern found on this Louis Erard watch is less labour intensive to realise than some of Chevalier’s other masterpieces, every dial will still require an inordinate amount of time to complete.
Louis Erard, with Emch’s guidance, has created an accessible, contemporary watch that incorporates time-served traditional craftsmanship. With only 99 pieces available and a recommended retail price of CHF 3,900 excluding taxes (RRP as of 24.3.2023), the model is like to sell out promptly, demonstrating that not even Monsieur Emch can sidestep the economic laws of supply and demand.
Further reading
Louis Erard Swiss Mechanical Watches
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Erard Excellence Marquetrie
- Ref. 34237AA58
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 42 mm, height 12.25mm, water resistance 5ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes
- Movement: Sellita SW261-1 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: blue grained calf leather with tone-on-tone attachement points, blue grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to changed quickly
- Price: CHF 3,900 (RRP as of 24.3.2023)
- Limited Edition: 99 pieces