Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Watch Review
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon unites the über-desirable complication with the noblest of metals, platinum. Reflecting on the past year, Angus Davies freely admits that this is one of his favourite watches of 2022. Technically brilliant, beautiful to behold and finished to an exalted standard, this model represents Haute Horlogerie at its best.
Image – La Maison, Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier
When dining in a fine restaurant, you may enquire of the sommelier which wines they recommend. Invariably, such professionals make reference to exceptional vintages. Likewise, in terms of Haute Horlogerie, 2022 will undoubtedly be remembered as an excellent year for the House of Parmigiani Fleurier.
Image – Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
Building on the success of its inaugural Tonda PF models, launched in 2021, the prestigious Maison from the Val de Travers, unveiled several mouthwatering delights in 2022, including the Tonda PF Skeleton, the highly original Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Automatic Rose Gold Deep Ruby. This latter watch recently scooped the Ladies’ Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), worthy recognition of its excellence. Based on PF’s success and with Christmas just around the corner, I suspect many of the brand’s personnel are in a celebratory mood and justly so.
Image – Tonda PF Automatic Rose Gold Deep Ruby
However, there is one PF-branded model that I have overlooked. As the embers of 2022 are set to die out, I feel obliged to talk about the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon. It remains one of my favourite ‘novelties’ of 2022 and yet, probably as a consequence of my advancing years, I’ve made no mention of it on the pages of ESCAPEMENT so far this year. As a man of principle, I feel obliged to explain in detail why this model is a truly remarkable expression of Haute Horlogerie.
Tourbillon (patented in 1801)
The tourbillon was patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. The ingenious mechanism counters the adverse influence of gravity on the behaviour of the escapement and regulating organ. Breguet’s inspired solution was to place the escapement and regulating organ in a rotating cage. Originally designed for a pocket watch held in a vertical position, the mechanism ameliorates positional errors, thereby enhancing precision.
While there is some debate regarding the chronometric benefits of a tourbillon when applied to a wristwatch, there can be no arguments about its standing within the hierarchy of watchmaking complications. Indeed, most experts consider the tourbillon to be a high complication and it’s typically the preserve of Haute Horlogerie. To bring such a complex mechanism to life necessitates the inordinate talents of a highly capable watchmaker. Needless to say, this kind of expertise does not grow on trees and such rare skills are much in demand.
Many horophiles are drawn to the aesthetic charms of the tourbillon, appreciating the spectacle of numerous components, presented centre-stage, engaged in a spellbinding dance. Everything is choreographed to the nth degree with little margin for error.
Flying tourbillon (1920)
In 1920, Alfred Helwig, a German watchmaker, conceived the flying tourbillon. An evolution of Breguet’s invention, the flying tourbillon is supported purely from underneath, eschewing the upper bridge. By adopting this approach, Helwig revealed more of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion, a tantalising prospect for any horological voyeur.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon – elegance in motion
Unlike the majority of dials which are made of brass, Parmigiani Fleurier has broken with convention by equipping the Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon with a platinum dial. This most noble of metals is not treated, but revealed in its pure, whitish-grey hue. It’s a sumptuous canvas that is softly spoken and impeccably refined. Consistent with other members of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF collection, subtle details abound.
The delta-shaped hour and minute hands are 18-carat gold, rhodium-plated and openworked. The hands reach outwards towards short, faceted indexes, again formed of 18-carat gold and rhodium-plated. Positioned just beyond the indexes, a minute track encircles the main dial plain, slightly recessed and marked with short black lines, it imparts meaning clearly without undue fuss. One of the notable characteristics of the dial is the welcome absence of garish branding, just ‘PF’ presented in an oval-shaped frame.
Grained finish
Unquestionably, the flying tourbillon, located between 6 and 8 o’clock, is the prima donna, mesmerising audiences with her exquisite performance. The upper part of the cage is tastefully attired in a grained finish and features two mirror-polished screws that sparkle in the light.
The screw slots are bevelled and their rims are chamfered. Opposite the stud holder, a thermally blued tip indicates the running seconds. Purists can savour the spectacle of numerous parts in conversation, merrily chatting, albeit in hushed tones as PF decorum dictates. An endearing characteristic of this flying tourbillon is that it confers a notable degree of transparency, affording splendid front to rear views.
While the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF articulates the prevailing time with a wonderful tone and the dial tastefully sidesteps unnecessary clutter, the model does not forgo detail. On the contrary, look at the gleaming centre at the fulcrum of the hour and minutes hands, or the brilliant sheen on the upper surface of said hands. Beyond the minute track, the adjacent internal wall, positioned perpendicular to the dial plain, is highly polished, reflecting the crisp black strokes, thereby enhancing readability.
At the base of the dial, two words have special importance, ‘Swiss Made’. These words have much meaning in Fleurier, a place where the terroir imbues the Maison’s products with character and authenticity. Indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier is unusual in the watchscape as it makes virtually all components in-house, a rare attribute few other firms can rival.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF – presented in a platinum case with a matching bracelet
Over the years I’ve chatted to various personnel working within the watch industry and certainly one thing I’ve heard on numerous occasions is that platinum is a challenging material to work with. First of all, during production it can easily become contaminated, hence good hygiene is essential to avoid compromising the material.
In addition, machining platinum takes much longer than producing a case in other metals such as steel or gold. For example, some watch firms talk about a platinum case taking three times longer to produce than a gold case. Moreover, there is also the matter of tool wear, with platinum wearing out tools more readily.
However, there are many benefits of using platinum. Indeed, beyond its alluring white complexion, platinum is corrosion-resistant and scratches can be removed with expert polishing. While small amounts of gold are often removed with polishing, no such problems afflict platinum.
Knurled bezel
In this instance, the Flying Tourbillon’s case and bracelet are formed of the precious metal. The brand has juxtaposed polished and satin-finished surfaces, while the bezel is delightfully knurled.
The construction of the lugs is very complicated due to the numerous angles, curving lines and contrasting finishes. Evidently, PF has made no concessions to haste. On the contrary, every element appears to be the fruit of protracted endeavour. By way of illustration, look at how the bracelet gets wider as it approaches the watch head, appearing to organically and seamlessly develop. Furthermore, study the lugs and reflect on the different heights, textures, shapes and angles at play – it’s very obvious that nobody at the Manufacture watches the clock.
The PF517 movement – Haute Horlogerie at its best
Measuring just 3.4mm in depth, the PF517 movement has a svelte torso. However, despite its trim physique, this automatic calibre omits nothing. PF has equipped the movement with a micro-rotor, conferring ease of use but without increasing movement thickness. Furthermore, the micro-rotor does not obscure the flawless finishing manifest throughout, something that will no doubt resonate with many purists.
While there are other companies which make movements powered by a micro-rotor, they remain few in number. The technical obstacle is generating sufficient inertia from a small oscillating weight. Reassuringly, Parmigiani Fleurier has vast experience making movements endowed with a micro-rotor. In this instance, the small oscillating mass is made from platinum and embellished with Grain d’Orge guilloché.
The movement is fitted with a free-sprung balance and the inertia weights are positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel, mitigating air perturbation and, by default, enhancing precision. The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement comprises 207 components, including 29 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the watch will run autonomously for 48 hours.
Moreover, whenever I write about Parmigiani Fleurier, I find it difficult not to mention movement finishing. I’ve toured the brand’s Manufacture on a number of occasions and I can attest that the finissage stands comparison with the so-called ‘holy trinity of watchmaking’. Indeed, the PF517 movement is adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, perlage and features sublime anglage.
The reasons for movement finishing
The reason why the Maison has always placed much emphasis on finissage can be traced back to the founder of the eponymous brand, Michel Parmigiani and his background in restoring automata, clocks and watches.
Image – Michel Parmigiani
Finishing enhances the corrosion resistance of parts, thereby conferring longevity. Some decorations such as perlage date back to an era when cases weren’t dustproof, hence the cloud-like swirls would hold onto the dust, preventing the moving parts from becoming contaminated. While this is no longer an issue, traditions continue to be respected. Finishing removes signs of machining and enhances the aesthetic appearance of the movement. A few months ago, I scrutinised this movement through a loupe and when doing so, I found it difficult to suppress my smiles of delight and repeated nods of appreciation. The PF517 movement is a paragon of horological virtue.
Closing remarks
Consistent with other members of the Tonda PF family, this model does not fanfare its presence with unseemly conduct or crass branding on its dial. Everything is collected, restrained and sedate.
Image – Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier
By way of illustration, I wish to return to discussions of wine. While some individuals view wine as an homogenous commodity, choosing to quaff it with gusto, discerning souls appreciate the nuances of a fine Bordeaux. These well-informed aficionados understand the complexities of producing a fine wine and can recognise the subtle characteristics that differentiate the exceptional from the mediocre.
While I do not wish to be labelled a watch snob, I do believe a person needs a modicum of watchmaking knowledge to fully appreciate the magnificence of this watch. Alas, despite the Maison’s efforts, no image can adequately convey the beguiling appearance of this model’s platinum dial, case and bracelet ensemble nor the matchless appearance of its finely finished movement. I’ve never forgotten how the watch looked on my wrist or the seemly lustre of its noble physique. I’ve seen many watches this year and reviewed many of those I’ve liked, however, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is one of only a handful of watches that stands out as truly exceptional and for this reason, it is one of my favourite timepieces of 2022.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon
- Reference: PFH921-2020001-200182
- Case: platinum 950, diameter 42mm, height 8.6mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, tourbillon
- Movement: calibre PF517, self-winding movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 48 hours, 207 components.
- Bracelet: polished and satin-finished platinum 950 bracelet with 18ct white gold folding clasp
- Price: CHF 140,000 including VAT (RRP as of 20.12.2022)