Oris Artelier Complication Watch Review
The Oris Artelier Complication features a moon phase indication at noon and a second time zone at 6 o’clock. A watch that embraces modernism with its clean and crisp lines, it was designed by 24-year-old Lena Huwiler. We tasked our resident twenty-something writer, Marcus Henry, to examine this latest creation to emerge from the brand’s Hölstein headquarters.
Oris – founded in 1904
More and more, the watch industry is seeking to engage with a younger audience. This demographic, born into an era of technology and rapid pacing, is choosing to slow down and appreciate the beauty of a fine mechanical watch. After all, I should know – I’m one of them.
One of the companies leading this youthful revolution is Oris, the Swiss brand known for its playful watches that have the capacity to make people smile. However, not every model that the Swiss firm produces is quite as mischievous as the ProPilot x Kermit Edition with its characterful date indication. Indeed, some Oris watches exhibit youthfulness and modernity, but are executed in a restrained style.
As a modern rework of an older collection, Oris’s new release of the Artelier Complication could have fallen squarely into the category of conservative, prosaic design. Instead, it’s become a new halo product for the brand, receiving a breath of fresh air from 24-year-old designer Lena Huwiler. Her updated version exudes urban charm alongside restrained professional grace, crafted to catch the eye of young watch lovers, but in reality likely to engage with all horophiles irrespective of their age.
Oris Artelier Complication – dial
Compared to its previous models, Oris’s boldest decision in reworking the Artelier Complication was to declutter the dial. This took the form of reducing the number of dial indications, moving from four subdials to just two, comprising a moon phase and a 24-hour time zone. Thankfully, this process of paring back still provides more than enough functionality for the majority of wearers. Indeed, the inclusion of a moon phase was, to quote Huwiler, ‘a romantic tribute to the traditional craft of watchmaking’. It provides a sense that the wearer – young or old – can look to the heavens and feel intimately connected to the passage of time.
Things truly get interesting with the composition of the dial. It’s been constructed in three concentric zones: a textured centre, a smooth curved outer rim and finally the two subdials. The repetition of circles within circles – from the outer rim to the small circular subdials – not only creates visual cohesion but also works harmoniously with the pronounced angles of the indices. Both indices and the square-tipped hands transcend their functional role, embracing modernism, enlivening the overall aesthetic.
Filling the negative spaces at 3:00 and 9:00 that have been created by stripping away two of the original four subdials, are two simple labels – ‘Oris’ and ‘Artelier’, presented in a new sans serif typeface. The resultant appearance of the dial is clean and uncluttered while remaining interesting. Offered in three colourways – midnight blue, ivory and chestnut – the dial delivers a beautiful marriage between graphic design and watchmaking.
Oris Artelier Complication – case
The case of the new Artelier Complication exhibits the same tasteful restraint as the dial. Formed of stainless steel, the case measures an elegant 39.50 mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.80 mm and should suit the majority of wrists.
The case is highly polished throughout, a touch that, simple as it may sound, elevates the dial, adding a hint of glitz and glamour. A corrector set in the caseband, located between 4:00 and 5:00, allows the wearer to easily adjust the moon phase and 24-hour display.
Oris Artelier Complication – movement
Behind the face of this urban beauty ticks the new Oris Calibre 782, an evolution of the trusted Calibre 781. Based on a modified Sellita SW200-1, the Calibre 782 features the same architecture as the Calibre 781, but without the gearing that powered the two additional dial indications.
Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the Artelier Complication will run autonomously for 41 hours. Equipped with a stop-seconds function, the watch can be precisely synchornised with a reference clock/watch. Upholding Oris convention, the oscillating mass within the timepiece is dressed in an ebullient shade of red.
Oris Artelier Complication – strap
When choosing their preferred Oris Artelier Complication, the prospective owner can opt for a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. The leather features a quick-release and a butterfly clasp, while the bracelet is an elegant three-link affair combining brushed and polished surfaces. The bracelet imbues the watch with a sportier feel, while the leather strap is dressier, wonderfully complementing formal attire.
Conclusion
With its pared-back design and subtle nuances, the new Oris Artelier Complication proves a breath of fresh air. Available for £2400 on a bracelet or £2250 on a strap, it’s an accessible timepiece. Although designed to engage with youthful urbanites, the watch, with its attractive blend of quality, value and tasteful styling, is likely to resonate with horophiles of all ages.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Oris Artelier Complication
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4055-07 6 20 17FC (midnight blue, strap)
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4056-07 6 20 17FC (chestnut, strap)
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4051-07 6 20 17FC (ivory, strap)
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4055-07 8 20 20 (midnight blue, bracelet)
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4056-07 8 20 20 (chestnut, bracelet)
- Reference: 01 782 7811 4051-07 8 20 20 (ivory, bracelet)
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39.50 mm, height 11.80 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, moon phase, 24-hour GMT time zone, stop seconds
- Movement: Oris Calibre 7820, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 41 hours
- Strap: dark brown leather strap with butterfly clasp or multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with butterfly clasp
- Prices: £2400 on bracelet, £2250 on strap (RRP as of 3.6.2026)