TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf (44mm) features a dial dressed in the American oil company’s signature blue and orange hues. Housed in a sandblasted grade 2 titanium case, the model is fitted with a bezel incorporating a forged carbon insert. Limited to just 1,000 pieces worldwide, this lightweight model celebrates TAG Heuer’s illustrious racing heritage.
TAG Heuer Formula 1
By all accounts, 1986 was a memorable year for a number of reasons. Deep-sea explorers finally laid eyes upon the rusted carcass of the RMS Titanic. In the world of video games, Mario saved the home console market from dying out. Meanwhile, at just 20 years of age, Mike Tyson became the youngest heavyweight boxing champion in history. Yet, if I’m to be entirely candid with you, those historical footnotes pale in comparison to the true highlight of 1986. For it was in that very year that I made my debut into the world, a bundle of fun and flair. I jest, of course, but now, as a watch obsessive, I also look back at 1986 as the year TAG Heuer launched the inaugural Formula 1 collection, an array of watches brimming with vitality.
Only a few years earlier, the Swiss watch industry had been nursing a very stubborn headache, the so-called ‘quartz crisis’, hence, the release of the vividly coloured Formula 1 models provided a much-needed remedy – a shot of bold motorsport medicine. Clad in fibreglass and unapologetically vibrant, they tapped into a very youthful demographic. Over the years, the collection has gracefully matured from playful, quartz-powered entry pieces into sophisticated, mechanically driven instruments – an evolution perfectly encapsulated by its celebrated partnership with Gulf.
Of course, the Swiss watchmaker’s relationship with the sponsor began some years before the introduction of the Formula 1 line, when Steve McQueen brought the Monaco watch into sharp, cinematic focus in the 1971 film, Le Mans, sporting it alongside a white racing suit adorned with the iconic bright blue and orange Gulf logo. The affiliation blossomed from there, first with an ‘official watch collaboration’ in 2007 and then an ‘official partnership’ in 2018.
With the release of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf, the iconic livery returns with a collaborative edition destined to appeal to watch aficionados and motorsport fans, alike.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf – dial
Inspired by the pit lane, the dial of the Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf features a black opalin surface. It serves as a dark expanse for the crisp, blue lacquered track running around the dial and the iconic Gulf stripes. Rendered in brilliant blue and orange, they run vertically down the right-hand side of the dial, reminiscent of the legendary cars that carried these exact colours to racing glory.
The tri-compax chronograph layout is seamlessly integrated into this architecture. A black opalin 30-minute chronograph register is positioned at 12 o’clock, while a 12-hour counter resides at 6 o’clock. Both of these essential registers are enlivened with orange lacquered hands. A small seconds indicator is located at 9 o’clock, distinguished by a Gulf blue lacquered hand. The colours of the counter hands enable the wearer to easily distinguish the timing functions from the running seconds.
Legibility is of paramount importance when tearing down the Mulsanne Straight and the Swiss marque has not forgotten that. Skeletonised hour and minute hands prove eminently legible, while at the same time affording additional glimpses of the dial surface beneath. Eight rhodium-plated indexes, generously filled with white Super-LumiNova, enhance read-off in restricted light. A white TAG Heuer logo sits alongside the date aperture at 3 o’clock, completing the inventory of dial indications.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf – case
Crafted from sandblasted Grade 2 titanium, the 44 mm case is both strong and light, while its sandblasted finish confers a muted, stealthy appearance. One visually striking element is the fixed tachymeter bezel, equipped with a forged carbon insert – a material intrinsically tied to high-performance motorsport. Carbon fibre threads are cut to length, precisely weighed and placed in a special mould. Epoxy resin is then added before everything is subjected to heat and pressure. Because the carbon fibre threads are randomly arranged, the resultant bezel has an irregular, mottled surface, guaranteeing that each of the 1,000 pieces produced is unique. Meanwhile, the stark Gulf text gracing the bezel leaves observers in no doubt about the watch’s allegiances.
Positioned snugly between the titanium case and the forged carbon bezel is an orange joint that provides another visual connection to the American oil company and its signature palette. The shaped push-buttons and the screw-down crown are executed in sandblasted and fine-brushed black DLC titanium. The vertical flank of the crown also benefits from an application of orange lacquer.
Formed of sandblasted Grade 2 titanium, the caseback is adorned with a crisp engraving of the Gulf logo. A screw-down crown contributes to the model’s impressive 200-metre water resistance, guaranteeing the timepiece is more than equipped to cope with the spray of a post-race Champagne celebration. Affixing the watch to the wrist is a sandblasted Grade 2 titanium three-row bracelet with double safety push-buttons and an adjustment link extension.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf – Calibre 16
Driving the Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf is the Calibre 16 – a self-winding movement that has seen service in several TAG Heuer chronographs over the years. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it will run autonomously for 48 hours, assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned. While some collectors may yearn for a view of the Calibre 16 at work, TAG Heuer has remained faithful to the collection’s lineage by opting for a solid caseback.
Closing Thoughts
With this ‘fourth edition of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 collaboration with Gulf Oil’, the Swiss avant-garde brand has created a serious mechanical chronograph, suffused with several vibrant shades. The use of lightweight titanium and forged carbon proffers a highly practical timepiece, perfectly suited to daily wear. The model delivers an excellent quality-price ratio, handsome styling and robustness, while also celebrating the shared racing heritage of both TAG Heuer and the American oil company, making it the ideal choice for those who choose to live life in the fast lane.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Automatic Chronograph x Gulf (44mm)
- Reference: CBZ208B.BF0009
- Case: diameter 44 mm, water resistance 20 ATM (200 metres), sapphire crystal to front, solid caseback with Gulf logo engraving.
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Caliber 16 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 48 hours
- Strap: sandblasted titanium grade 2 three-row bracelet fitted with a folding clasp incorporating double safety push-buttons
- and adjustment link extension.
- Price: £5,350 (RRP as of 3.7.2026)
- Limited Edition: 1000 pieces