Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 Watch Review
The Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 is housed in an über-luxurious 38mm case made from Goldtech™️ and features a white sun-brushed dial. In addition, Panerai has simultaneously released the Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01182 equipped with a blue dial, serving as a decadent alternative to the brand’s utilitarian models of yesteryear. Angus Davies reflects on the evolution of Panerai, the luxury marque that now offers more choice than ever before.
“How would you describe Panerai?”
Approximately 10 years ago, I chatted with a Panerai employee. Whilst I covetously admired an array of Luminor and Radiomir models, I asked him, “How would you describe Panerai?” Within two nanoseconds he replied, “Royal Italian Navy, Florence, historical and masculine”.
Having studied branding whilst attending university, I was deeply impressed that he could define Panerai so clearly. Those brands that we readily understand and which we feel resonate with our own personality, whether real or imaginary, are more likely to attract our custom. As a self-confessed Panerai devotee, my perception of the Italian-Swiss company was similar to the aforementioned description, albeit until recently.
The first military diver’s watch in history
Panerai can trace its origins back to the 19th century when shortly after it was established (1860) it began to specialise in high precision mechanical engineering and ultimately became an official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy (1864). As a horophile, it is the products produced during the 1930s that are of particular interest. In 1938, the company produced the ‘first military divers’ watch in history, the Panerai Radiomir’, a model measuring 47mm in diameter, fitted with wire loop attachments and equipped with a Rolex movement.
The Luminor Due collection – a new era
During the 1940s, the wire loop attachments were supplanted by sturdier horn-shaped lugs and the sandwich dial made its first appearance, as did the now-iconic crown protection device. Appealing to die-hard Panerai traditionalists, the brand stayed true to its heritage, upholding the utilitarian character of former models until 2016 when the Luminor Due collection was released.
Two years later (2018), the firm began to engage with a female audience, releasing the Due in a new smaller 38mm size. These models proved suitable for men seeking smaller case dimensions but also for ladies appreciating the practicality Panerai ownership confers.
Neuchâtel Manufacture
Today, Panerai offers much more than “Royal Italian Navy, Florence, historical and masculine”. It respects its past, making models that perpetuate the aforementioned traits. Indeed, it continues to work closely with the military, recently producing watches for the Navy Seals and Italian Special Forces troops. The brand also continues to have strong ties with Florence, but now crafts a broader collection of watches, including movements, within its own modern Manufacture in Neuchâtel.
New materials
Moreover, the company is no stranger to new materials and technology, making cases in Carbotech™️, eSTEEL™️, Fibratech™️, Goldtech™️, and Platinumtech™️.
Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01182
Now, the Italian-Swiss marque has released a new model, the Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 (white sun-brushed dial) along with the Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01182 (blue sun-brushed dial). Save for the colour of their respective dials, both models are identical, however, I feel drawn to the white dial option and focus my attention on this reference hereafter.
Goldtech™️ case
The Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 is housed in a 38mm polished Goldtech™️ case. While this metal is 18-carat gold ie 75% pure, the remaining 25% contains a high level of copper and platinum. The copper ‘contributes to the deep, red tone of the metal, while the platinum content ensures the colour will remain radiant and true’.
Sandwich dial
Panerai traditionalists will undoubtedly appreciate the model’s sandwich dial and crown protection device. The bracelet incorporates brushed and polished surfaces that sit in concert with the case’s gleaming torso. This sumptuous ensemble, crafted in precious metal, imbues the Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 with a note of decadence, a characteristic far removed from the brand’s models of yesteryear.
P.900 calibre
A pane of glazing to the rear affords sight of the automatic P.900 calibre. The self-winding movement requires minimal wearer input, making the Due TuttoOro ideal for daily wear. Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the watch will run autonomously for three days.
Closing remarks
It’s always interesting when a brand sends imagery to accompany a press release. In this instance, the Luminor Due TuttoOro is shown on the wrists of two female models and to be honest, I suspect most buyers of this model will be ladies. However, if you do have small wrists or simply prefer a sub-40mm case, then the Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 is certainly an interesting option.
Unequivocally glamorous, the Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326 is far removed from the military watches of the 1930s and 40s. Indeed, the profusion of gold sets to one side the utilitarian watches of the past and says luxury in bold capitals.
However, while Panerai has conquered new territories with its state of the art materials, noble metals and feminine creations, it has not abandoned long-standing brand devotees who continue to love the military themed models for which the brand is traditionally known for.
No longer is Panerai a niche brand, it now has broad appeal, crafting luxurious watches brimming with Florentine style. The company may have changed since 2016, but I can still recognise what it represents.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro PAM01326
- Case: Goldtech™️, diameter 38 mm, water resistance 3ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to the front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: P.900 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 23 jewels, power reserve 3 days, 171 components
- Strap: polished and brushed Panerai GoldtechTM strap with OP logo engraved
- Price: £31,100 (RRP as of 1.12.2022)