Another lesson from Panerai
Angus Davies reviews the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days – 47mm (PAM 422), a modern interpretation of the diving watches worn by the Royal Italian Navy back in the 1950’s.
Over the years of collecting watches, it is Panerai who has taught me two valuable lessons.
Lesson one – “buy it when you see it”
I had just bought a Panerai PAM 091, a Luminor Marina in steel and titanium on a bracelet. It had a 44 mm and oozed masculinity as it sat on my wrist. One of 2000 models made, there was a caché with the watch sometimes absent from more mainstream luxury brands.
The bracelet was a feat of engineering with numerous steel and titanium sections working in harmony forming a substantial and comfortable means of securing the watch case to the wearer’s wrist.
Whilst at the authorised Panerai retailer in northern England, I saw a 2002 special edition, Luminor 1950 47mm PAM127. I seem to remember it was approximately £7000 at the time and was a very tempting prospect. My wife, who is the sensible adult in our relationship reminded me that I had purchased two other wristwatches in quick succession over the proceeding months and I “should cool it a little”.
I walked away from PAM 127, slightly deflated but knowing that she was correct, food and clothes for the children were probably more important.
I could have afforded it at the time, but it was probably an indulgence too many.
I have never seen this watch again until recently when I saw an advert for a second-hand model on the Internet, for £12,500 approximately. I have a rule never buy off the internet and only purchase a pre-owned watch from an authorised reseller who can attest to the provenance.
If you see a watch you really love and you can afford it, indulge yourself otherwise you will always feel regret.
Lesson two – “never sell a watch”
Like many collectors I saw a must have watch but did not have the budget to pay for the purchase in full. I decided I would trade in a timepiece I hadn’t worn for a while, the aforementioned PAM091.
Another mistake.
It is only when you see other people wearing a similar watch, that you remember the motives for making the purchase initially.
I would dearly love to own another Luminor Marina PAM 091.
I have never parted with a watch since and unless I could not find a taker for a surplus kidney, I never would.
Now a new lesson from Panerai – remember the past
The design of the Luminor Marina 3 Days – 47mm (PAM 422) is a modern interpretation of the diving watches worn by the Royal Italian Navy back in the 1950’s.
Panerai have launched this model at SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horology Genève) this year. Due to be available to the general public in August, this is one of two models, sharing similar appearance, the other being the Luminor 1950 3 Days Power Reserve (PAM 423). However, it is PAM 422 which I prefer due to the clarity of the face.
Panerai are an overtly masculine watch with Swiss-Italian genes. I have had a fondness for Panerai for many years and they have an originality and unique appearance which differentiates them from the mainstream.
The Case
The construction of the case is of stainless steel 316L and with a case diameter of 47mm it is a large watch. The case is highly polished which captures the light and whilst it would possibly attract sharks if you went diving in some waters due to the glint and shine of the case, I think the polished surfaces provide a wonderful clean appearance.
Everything on this watch is polished with the exception of the bridges within the case which are brushed.
The watch sits comfortably on the wrist due to its cushion-shaped case and the way the interhorns allow the leather strap to cusp the wrist comfortably.
The crown is locked into place and protected by Panerai’s famous patented device which mitigates the risk of water ingress.
The sapphire crystal case back affords the wearer a window of opportunity to enjoy the workings within the case.
The dial
The watch features a sandwich dial which affords it a three dimensional quality. The black dial has a combination of luminous Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 6 o’clock with colour co-ordinated indices at the other hour positions. The name Panerai and words “Luminor” and “Marina” are engraved on the dial.
Subsidiary seconds are located at 9 o’clock.
The dial is unfussy and imparts time beautifully day and night, thanks to the fantastic luminescence known to all Panerai owners.
The dial is housed behind a sapphire crystal glass which is slightly domed and to my mind, preferable to Plexiglas favoured on old models as it is more robust and less prone to scratches or cracking.
The movement
The hand wound mechanical movement is the Panerai P.3001, a manufacture movement made solely by Panerai.
The movement has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz), it is 16.5 lignes in diameter and only 6.3mm thick. Fitted with two spring barrels, it has a power reserve of 72 hours.
Stare at the movement and you will see only some of the amazing 210 components within and only a few of the 21 jewels which reside within the case. However, it is a wonderful view, two large bridges stare back at you with incredible ruby eyes catching your gaze.
I like that the power reserve indicator, unlike the PAM 423, does not appear on the dial but rather on the calibre, visible through the case back. Whilst you have to remove the watch to see this complication, it prevents the dial becoming cluttered.
The bridges have a simple brushed effect which is exquisite in its execution.
The watch also features a seconds reset function, a handy feature if you were synchronising watches for a nautical mission on a manned torpedo back in yesteryear. Now it is a feature to delight watch lovers and for that I applaud Panerai.
Conclusion
The Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days model is another horological masterpiece from the haute horlogerie brand, faithful to its origins but harnessing the latest know-how in watch manufacture.
When you look at Panerai you are reminded of the past, and in my case, my aforementioned mistakes. If I can afford this watch at the time it is launched, I will buy it. I have learnt my lesson.
Technical specification
- Model: Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days – 47mm
- Reference: PAM422
- Case: Stainless steel 316L; 47 mm diameter; sapphire crystal to both front and rear.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds; power reserve indicator on back; seconds reset.
- Calibre: Manual-wind; manufacture movement by Panerai; 27 jewels; 207 components; 16.5 lignes; 6.3mm thick; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); power reserve 72 hours; water resistance 10bar (100 metres).
- Calibre Reference: P.3001 calibre
- Strap: leather strap on pin buckle with additional strap and screwdriver provided