“Consider the lily…”
Angus Davies reviews the Vacheron Constantin Malte small seconds, a tonneau-shaped watch recently launched at SIHH 2012.
Over-embellishment is transient. Ostentation a distraction. With haute couture it is the cut, the line, the drape, that sets a standard that is timeless, epitomised in the little black dress. The well cut suit does not need embellishment or decoration. Simplicity allows perfection. There is never a need to gild the lily. This watch is a lily.
Simplicity of form, however, does not mean that in its manufacture it is simple. Such a watch like the classic gown, has the same level of complexity in its creation. Moreover because there is an understated elegance, any imperfection would be far more obvious than a blemish in an elaborate piece with a myriad of decorations and functions.
This watch has a timeless quality. It is classical. Its appeal transcends trends and foibles.
To celebrate..
In 1912 Vacheron Constantin presented its first tonneau shaped watch. It provided an alternative to the classic round face and was inspired by the art nouveau styling of the time. It was inspirational and those historic watches have their descendents in the Vacheron Constantin range. The barrel form still has its appeal. In celebration a hundred years later Vacheron Constantin have revisited this classic form.
Four new models in its Malte range mark the tonneau’s century. Significantly it is the range whose name draws upon Vacheron Constantin’s logo for its identity, the Maltese cross.
They pay homage to their historic watches and remain timeless and classic in their form, restrained and pure. The one which is reviewed here is the small seconds, refined, beautifully defined and designed.
In 2011 the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva added to its criteria for recognition and the right to have its approval marked on any watch’s movement and certificate of origin. All four of Vacheron Constantin’s new offerings met those stringent criteria and can bear that accolade.
The Hallmark of Geneva
Any watch receiving this approval must be a product of the Canton. It carries after all the endorsement of Geneva. It vouchsafes the quality and standard of any watch which bears it. The certification was first introduced in 1901 but have now been made more rigorous. Twelve additional criteria have been set and the requirements strengthened. Watches have to be hand-finished and undergo extensive testing and rigorous scrutiny. Specific rules apply to all elements in the watches crafting. The result is a guarantee of accuracy, dependability of the movement, the presentation of a timepiece with impeccable finish, polished to perfection and with an overall beauty which gives joy to the wearer. It is a guarantee of provenance. It states unequivocally that quality is paramount.
This watch has achieved that status.
It comes, therefore, with a guarantee of provenance, of exacting precision, promising durability and the pedigree born of horological expertise.
It really requires no further eulogy or praise but to simply state that would be to fail to admire its exquisite beauty.
The Face
Understated and elegant, the dial is devoid of distraction. It leaves the designer nowhere to hide. What is achieved is a symphony of simplicity perfected.
The dial is silver, sand-blasted, basking in the reflective glow of the pink gold case.
The hours markers are in pink gold, all except the 12 and 6 o’clock hours a bold raised bâton of rose gold, individually sculpted to follow the revised, curvaceous, tonneau shape. At 12 and 6 exquisitely fashioned applied Roman numerals, their lines thick or thin as they would be if drawn by pen, add their own statement.
The small seconds sub dial, rests at 6 o’clock, a simple circle, recessed with black strokes marking the subdivisions, those at the quarters longer that the others.
All the hands are in gold, sword form.
The gold Maltese cross rests below the 12 and below that the Vacheron Constantin Name and beneath that the proud name Genève whose endorsement it has earned. The same pride echoed in the simple statement “ Swiss Made “ at 6 o’clock. All the accreditations are in black upper case.
The Case
Made in 18 carat pink gold it has a warmth and lustre which that gold imparts.
It is traditional, classic, elongated, delicately curved and stretched, sensuous in its lines. Nothing jars. The curves flow seamlessly around the dial.
The simple grooved crown rests at 3 o’clock and bears the Maltese cross, raised, more the focus of attention because of the lack of extraneous detail.
The lack of embellishment in case and dial serves to draw the eye to the grace and beauty of the lines and the small details.
The Movement
The movement which rests within that glorious case is beautiful with Côtes de Genève.
It is the prestigious 4400 AS movement with a reserve of almost three days. It is mechanical, manual winding.
Other Features
To tone with the warm tones of the case the strap is in brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with large square scales and is hand-stitched, saddle finished and is fastened by an 18 carat pink gold buckle bearing the Maltese cross.
It has a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Moreover, it is water resistant to 30 meters.
Conclusion
This is a watch is a study in restrained elegance which speaks to the soul, lifts the spirits, delights the eye and touches the heart.
Technical specification
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Malte small seconds
- Reference: 82130/OOOR-9755; stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
- Case: 18-carat pink gold; 36.70mm x 47.61mm; 9.10mm height
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds.
- Calibre: Self-winding; Frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 65 hours; water resistance 3 bar (30 metres).
- Calibre Reference: 4400 AS – developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
- Strap: Brown mississippiensis alligator; large square scales; hand-stitched; saddle finish with 18-carat pink gold buckle