Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo 5098
The Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo 5098, a tonneau-shaped beauty, was first released in 2007 but subsequently discontinued around 2016/2017. The art-deco inspired timepiece is just one of many ‘form’ watches produced by the prestigious Maison. Angus Davies looks back at the Ref 5098 and laments over what could have been.
Regrets I’ve had a few
Most days I write about new watches that are theoretically available, however, recently I began to think of the watches I’ve once owned, the ones I’ve kept and the ones I’ve sold, as well as those that simply got away. Unlike Edith Piaf, I would have to say ‘Oui, j’ai des regrets’.
Yes, regrets, I’ve had a few. Bad decisions made in haste and frustrations about those models I should have bought and didn’t. I’m not talking about financial frustrations relating to watch acquisition. Certainly, I’m aware that some models are so scarce, with demand outstripping supply, that there are opportunities to make a ‘quick buck’. Indeed, as an industry commentator, I’ve noted the growth of the grey market and witnessed it sating the desires of impatient clients willing to pay outrageous premiums just to secure the latest ‘horological must-have’. Personally, I can’t relate to this area of the watchsphere. Quite simply, I’ve always bought with my heart first, not my head.
Removing cellophane and inhaling a noseful of Swiss air
When lamenting over watches I’ve foolishly sold or ruminating on the models I wished I’d bought in the past, my frustration is primarily based on obsolescence, where ‘must haves’ are no longer available to buy new. Indeed, there comes a point when vacillating over purchasing a watch can sometimes lead to disappointment as models inevitably become unavailable.
I could buy a pre-owned example, but it would lack that box-fresh newness that only comes from visiting an authorised retailer and securing a virgin horological bride. Moreover, before going down the preowned route, an astute watch buyer should always think about provenance, including authenticity, title, condition and service history. I’ve bought preowned watches in the past without any dramas, but nothing quite matches the first-owner experience of removing the protective cellophane and inhaling a noseful of Swiss air.
In this article, I wish to revisit one of the watches that got away: the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref 5098.
Gondolo – the story behind the name
In 1872, Patek Philippe supplied its first watch to Gondolo & Labouriau, a watch retailer based in Rio de Janeiro. The two companies enjoyed a commercial relationship for over 60 years, with the Brazilian retailer selling over 22,000 Patek models during this period. Indeed, the importance of the Brazilian firm to Patek was only surpassed by Tiffany & Co in New York.
Chronometro Gondolo
Between 1902 and 1927, Patek produced several special models for the Brazilian firm known as ‘Chronometro Gondolo’. Rather than opting for the ubiquitous round case, Patek produced so-called ‘form’ watches such as cushion-shaped, rectangular, square and tonneau-shaped housings.
Image – Chronometro Gondolo circa 1927
The modern-day Gondolo collection burst onto the scene in 1993. Inspired by art deco, the Gondolo name has been applied to numerous references, including elegant time-only models, annual calendars, minute repeaters and gem-set creations.
Chronometro Gondolo 5098
Released in 2007, the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo 5098 was produced in two variants, rose gold (Ref 5098R) and platinum (Ref 5098P). One glance at the Ref 5098 and it is clear the Genevan Maison took inspiration from the retailer specials made during the 1920s.
Poire-style hands
Poire-style hour and minute hands sit all alone on the stage with no bit part players waiting in the wings. The remit is clear, this watch conveys the essentials of time without any distractions. The hours are denoted with painted, stylised Breguet numerals that prove characterful yet clear.
The dial is cambered and enlivened with hand-guilloché waves. This marine-themed texture straddles the hour track, positioned both to the centre and extremities of the dial. A chemin de fer frames the hour track, enhancing readability. Two fine lines of Sauté piqué delineate the hour track from the hand-guilloché waves.
In the upper region of the dial, a cartouche proclaims the luxury marque’s name and the watch’s place of origin. In the lower portion of the dial, a second cartouche states ‘Chronometro Gondolo’, a name once exclusive to models supplied to the Brazilian retailer.
Consistent with all other platinum Patek Philippe models, a diamond is set within the case, positioned just between the lower lugs. It’s just one of those tiny details that makes devotees of the Maison beam with delight.
Caliber 25-21 REC
In the rarefied world of Haute Horlogerie, the shape of a watch’s movement should echo the profile of its case. Sometimes, a brand wishing to use a round case within a rectangular case will hide such horological impropriety beneath a solid caseback.
However, the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref 5098 is fitted with a suitably shaped movement, the Caliber 25-21 REC, visible via an exhibition caseback. The last three letters of the movement reference refer to the rectangular shape of the hand-wound calibre, albeit it does have angled corners. While the case is tonneau-shaped, the movement sits in concert with the arcing lines of the housing. Purists can rest easy, horological probity has been observed.
The frequency of the balance is 28,800 vph (4Hz), a modern cadence that should help deliver an impressive degree of precision. The movement contains 18 jewels and, assuming the watch is fully wound, will run autonomously for about 44 hours.
Patek Philippe Gyromax system
Patek’s Gyromax system is one of the technical highlights of the Caliber 25-21 REC. This proprietary system is a form of ‘variable-inertia balance’, sometimes called a ‘free sprung balance’. Most watches feature an index-regulator which adjusts the effective length of the hairspring, making the watch run faster or slower.
With the Gyromax system, the length of the hairspring remains constant. Instead, the balance wheel is fitted with C-shaped weights which are rotated clockwise/counter-clockwise, altering the moment of inertia and, by default, the rate. This system means the rate is less susceptible to positional influence and the rate stability is superior. Moreover, the weights or ‘masselottes’ are positioned inside the rim of the balance wheel, mitigating air perturbation and thereby enhancing precision.
The architecture of the movement is delightful with an S-shaped centre-wheel bridge, slender escape wheel and fourth-wheel cocks. This arrangement, with notable gaps between each bridge, allows the wearer to see parts of the gear train, escapement and regulating organ. A further refinement of this balance is the sliding stud cap. This provides a trained watchmaker with the means to simply correct a beat error which proves easier than moving the collet on a balance staff.
Patek Seal
The early versions of the Chronometro Gondolo Ref 5098 were hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève, however, in 2009, the venerable Maison established its own quality standard, ‘The Patek Seal’. Irrespective of which standard applies to a particular example of the Ref 5098, the objective remains the same ie, to maintain the no-compromise standards associated with high-end watchmaking. For example, there should be no evidence of machining when the movement is completed.
In order to eliminate any evidence of machining, the Caliber 25-21 REC is painstakingly finished, often by hand. The mainplate is appointed with perlage and the upper bridge surfaces are enlivened with Côtes de Genève. Where a bridge surface meets a flank, a chamfered edge is created, bestowing a contrasting note of brilliance. Moreover, the screws and jewels sit in polished sinks… Quite simply, the list of finishing techniques is endless.
Finishing
Other reasons for finishing (finissage) include enhancing the corrosion resistance of components, removing burrs which could impair the motion of moving parts and, finally, upholding the traditional artisanal techniques much-loved by purists. Rest assured, when it comes to the Caliber 25-21 REC, everything is refined to the highest order.
Closing remarks
Round watches have a tendency to be bestsellers, while form watches, typically lacking the same mass appeal, can prove commercially riskier. This is one of the reasons I admire brands who dare to make these types of watches.
Patek has been very shrewd when designing its Gondolo models, taking inspiration from the art deco period, arguably the finest era in the history of design. Sublime expressions of art deco include architecture, furniture, jewellery and watches and the allure of these paragons of style has never waned.
With the Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref 5098, the Genevan Maison has united glorious aesthetics with mechanical excellence. The movement is rich with detail and has been crafted to a no-compromise, exalted standard.
I once had the opportunity to purchase a new example of this watch but my protracted deliberations meant my relationship was never consummated. It wasn’t the only time I made this mistake and it probably won’t be the last. Sometimes there is wisdom in making a purchase as soon as your eyes meet the gaze of a horological beauty.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo Ref 5098
- Case: Rose gold or platinum; dimensions 42mm x 32mm; height 8.9mm (from the crystal to the transparent caseback); water resistance to 3ATM (30m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes
- Movement: Caliber 25-21 REC; hand-wound; 142 parts, 28,800 vph (4Hz). Power reserve maximum 44 hours.
- Strap: Colour-coordinated hand-stitched alligator strap with large scales. Matching prong buckle
- Price: Rose gold (5098R) – CHF 31,800 (RRP as of 1.3.2014)
- Price: Platinum (5098P) – CHF 43,400 (RRP as of 1.3.2014)