Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
The Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver is back and it’s better than ever. In 2013, the Jura-based brand released the first-generation PONTOS S Diver. A couple of years later, Angus Davies seized the opportunity to acquire a prototype version and it has since proved a reliable wrist-worn companion. Recently, the self-confessed watch obsessive had the chance to try on the new, improved 2023 model and he wasn’t disappointed.
Nostalgia leads us to think of past experiences, friendships and possessions. When I look back at the cars that I once owned, I remember their idiosyncrasies, the places they transported me to and the passengers I once carried. Most of the cars that I formerly owned seemed wonderful at the time, however, looking back they lacked the creature comforts and technical refinements of today’s tech-packed automotive offerings.
Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver (2013)
Over the last 8 years, I’ve been the proud owner of a Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver. It’s not the standard model that was released back in 2013, my version was a ‘prototype’ equipped with a silver sunray dial. It belonged to a batch of watches sold on behalf of Maurice Lacroix via the Antiquorum e-commerce platform, back in September 2015. The watch has served me well and can often be seen affixed to my wrist.
Image – Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver prototype (circa 2013)
Image – Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver prototype (circa 2013)
As stated previously, the regular model was released in 2013. Presented with a black dial, an internal rotating bezel, three hands and a date, the watch was housed in a 43mm stainless steel case. It also featured a helium valve, had a maximum water resistance of 600m and was offered with a choice of a ‘hydrophobic calf leather strap’ or steel bracelet.
Looking at the Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver of 2013, the model still looks, a testament to its accomplished design. Indeed, unlike my former octane-rich loves, my first-generation PONTOS S Diver still fulfils my needs despite now living in a tech-obsessed, AI-fearing world. Therefore, it may come as a surprise to learn that the model was discontinued in 2016. Inevitably prompting many horophiles to ask why? Allow me to elaborate.
Why did Maurice Lacroix discontinue the PONTOS S Diver in 2016?
In 2016, the watch brand from Saignelégier released its inaugural AIKON timepiece. The positive reaction to the model was immediate and sales went through the roof.
Recently, while chatting to a member of the Maurice Lacroix team, I enquired why the firm ceased production of my beloved PONTOS S Diver. They explained that, based on the favourable response to the AIKON, the brand soon became aware of the new model’s potential. They decided to allocate the firm’s finite production and marketing resources to the AIKON, choosing to discontinue the company’s divers’ model.
With hindsight, this was a shrewd decision. The demand for the AIKON has never waned and sales still continue to grow. Indeed, the Swiss firm has capitalised on this success by releasing numerous additional references over the years.
Nevertheless, the Jura-based brand has since received many requests from horophiles yearning to own a PONTOS S Diver. It was perhaps inevitable, therefore, that Maurice Lacroix would ultimately revisit the former model of 2013.
Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver (2023)
At first glance, the new Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver looks near-identical to its antecedent of 2013. However, don’t be fooled, the brand has not chosen to sit on its hands. On the contrary, it has revisited the former design and made a number of subtle refinements.
Where the former model was offered in just two variants, a calf leather strap or steel bracelet option, the new model is available in three variants, two encased in steel and one in bronze that’s limited to just 500 pieces. The models also come with different straps allowing the wearer to alter the appearance of their chosen watch depending on their mood.
Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver – new case
Presented in a 42mm case, the new PONTOS S Diver is 1mm smaller than its predecessor.
The crown at 2 o’clock, used to operate the internal rotating bezel, previously featured a black circlet adjacent to the fluted grip. Now, it’s presented in blue or orange, depending on the chosen dial colour.
Image – Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver prototype (circa 2013)
Another subtle change relates to the caseback which now features the brand’s “Vague du Jura” motif, a pattern that also adorns the rear of the ML AIKON Venturer.
Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver – new straps
Maurice Lacroix supplies the bronze version of the PONTOS S Diver with two straps, one in vintage dark blue leather, endowed with the brand’s M-logo, and a second in dark blue rubber incorporating the brand’s name, presented in relief.
Purchasers of the steel models receive three straps, an M-branded fabric strap and two rubber straps, again incorporating Maurice Lacroix branding. In common with the brand’s AIKON mdoel, the new PONTOS S is equipped with the firm’s Easy Strap Exchange System, allowing the wearer to easily swap one strap for another with minimal fuss and without the need for tools.
My first-generation PONTOS S Diver came on a black ‘hydrophobic calf leather strap’ that was long, elaborately folded and looked decidedly different. While it looked ‘cool’ at the time, I have since replaced it with a conventional rubber strap. On seeing the new PONTOS S Diver and the various straps available, I think the bright orange option would be a worthy replacement (size permitting).
Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S – dial
The bronze version looks stunning. Indeed, while divers’ watches were originally intended for professional use and were essentially utilitarian objects, the new bronze model (PT6248-BRZ0B-430-4) brims with luxury.
In terms of the two steel versions, Maurice Lacroix has returned with an up-to-date version of the black dial (PT6248-SS00L-330-J), similar in appearance to the 2013 model, but with subtle changes (see later). The final version of the new PONTOS S Diver is endued with a white lacquered dial, enlivened with blue accents. This latter version, my personal favourite, has a pure and youthful persona. Indeed, the summery look of this watch would make it the perfect accompaniment to beach life.
Contrasting the latest model with my first-generation model, it is clear to see the dial is more sophisticated. The hour and minute hands seem crisper and more legible. Likewise, the markings on the flange, just beyond the indexes, are more defined and appear clearer. Moreover, the batons project slightly beyond the adjacent markings located on the minute track, once again, augmenting readability. The minute markers have also been cleverly reworked and now stand out more.
The first-generation PONTOS S Diver of 2013 featured an aperture revealing the date, employing a white disc and black numerals. On these second-generation models, the date display matches the neighbouring dial epidermis, thereby upholding horological etiquette. It may sound small, but the sum of all these enhancements promises to heighten ownership delight.
Automatic ML115 calibre
Maurice Lacroix continues to use the Automatic ML115 calibre, the same tried and trusted self-winding movement employed on the first-generation model. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 26 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for 38 hours.
A real-world divers’ watch
The observant among you may have noticed the new Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver eschews the helium valve found on the former model. Moreover, you may have noted that the maximum water resistance is now 300m when the model’s predecessor was water-resistant to 600m. However, before you cry ‘regression’, just pause for a moment.
Image – Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver prototype (circa 2013)
Firstly, a helium valve is only of relevance if the wearer partakes in ‘saturation diving’, a perilous pursuit few would-be wearers will ever contemplate. I have owned a few watches fitted with a helium valve, including my cherished PONTOS S prototype, and they have all behaved whilst in my care with no problems. However, over the years, I’ve spoken to several watchmakers who have talked about valves sticking open, potentially allowing ingress of dust and moisture. Unless you wish to partake in a spot of underwater welding on the bed of the North Sea, it may be worth avoiding a divers’ watch fitted with a helium valve.
Divers’ watches are seldom used in anger. Nevertheless, they are frequently chosen for their appearance, robustness, notable legibility and aquatic wearability. Few examples will submerge further than a few metres below the ocean surface. A watch with a water resistance of 300m is more than enough to sate the needs of most amateur divers. The new Maurice Lacroix PONTOS S Diver has a smaller case diameter and looks slightly neater on the wrist, hence, on balance, the lower water-resistance figure seems a small price to pay.
Where this new model stands out is that it features a clearer, more sophisticated dial. Furthermore, the dial indications are even more legible than the original version thanks to the crisper, high-contrast dial details. The model also looks less utilitarian and more refined, making it an ideal companion for any black-tie soirée. The bronze, limited-edition model is a stylish performer, but personally I would opt for the steel and white dial variant. This model is highly practical, making it suitable for daily wear, while its opulent white visage promises to turn heads at the beach.
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
- Reference: PT6248-SS00L-330-J (steel case / blue dial / fabric strap and two rubber straps)
- Reference: PT6248-SS00L-130-4 (steel case / white dial / fabric strap and two rubber straps)
- Reference: PT6248-BRZ0B-430-4 (bronze case / blue dial vintage leather strap and blue rubber straps)
- Case: diameter 42mm, height 12mm, water resistance 30ATM (30m), sapphire crystal to the front and solid caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date, internal rotating bezel
- Movement: automatic ML115 calibre, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap: nylon strap lined with black PVD butterfly buckle. Includes Easy Strap Exchange system
- Price: €2100 – PT6248-SS00L-330-J – (RRP as of 14.6.2023)
- Price: €2100 – PT6248-SS00L-130-4 – (RRP as of 14.6.2023)
- Price: €2100 – PT6248-BRZoB-430-4 – (RRP as of 14.6.2023)