Pequignet Attitude Onyx Watch Review
The Pequignet Attitude Onyx is a stylish, unisex watch that elegantly indicates the hours and minutes. Its deep black dial is reminiscent of a black dinner suit or a ‘little black dress’ where the materials, the cut, subtle details and peerless craftsmanship are immediately apparent to those with a discerning eye.
Pequignet Attitude Onyx – introduction
For gentlemen, the traditional dinner suit is the ultimate expression of sartorial elegance. Colour can sometimes appear vulgar or outré – black is the order of the day. Moreover, by eschewing colour, the material, the cut and the tiniest of details become apparent.
Style is clearly not just the preserve of men; ladies are served by ‘Haute Couture’, the ultimate expression of dressmaking.
While some ladies choose to wear animal prints, lamé or sequins, there is an antithetical notion of style where ‘less is more’. Back in 1926, Coco Chanel’s iconoclastic ‘little black dress’ shifted the accepted belief that such obsidian-toned garments were solely the preserve of widows and workers. Chanel’s famous sheath dress favoured straight lines, diagonal or vertical, slim sleeves and a freeing shape; a departure from the stuffy, rigid corsetry and stiff structures of the time. The ‘black canvas’ served as a foil, accentuating the appearance of accessories such as a string of pearls or a cloche hat.
I am especially reminded of Coco Chanel’s famous LBD and the world of couture when I look at the dial of the new unisex Pequignet Attitude Onyx. It does not subscribe to bold patterns, outlandish colours or excessive scale. On the contrary, the materials, restricted colour palette and pure lines all coalesce beautifully, delivering elegant restraint. Like the LBD of 1926, the Attitude Onyx is a product of France; however, it is not made in Paris, but Morteau, an area synonymous with fine watchmaking.
Seemingly simple at first glance, the Pequignet Attitude Onyx is enriched with many details that may go unnoticed. However, to a discerning eye, such subtleties come to the fore, indicating both quality and an attention to style. Moreover, despite drawing comparisons with the LBD, the Pequignet is perfectly suited to male wrists; the canvas is likely to appeal to those who share the same discernment irrespective of their gender. Allow me to elaborate.
Pequignet Attitude Onyx – dial
The ‘black canvas’ on this occasion is formed of onyx, a variety of chalcedony; it is a material characterised by bottomless depths. Making this type of dial is a protracted process that involves the material being submerged in a chemical solution over a number of weeks before being dried, cut and polished. The resultant dial evokes thoughts of abyss-like pools and exhibits a mirror-like gleam.
The golden hour and minute hands are redolent of jewellery complementing an LBD couture ensemble. The faceted hour markers perpetuate the gilded theme, their elongated profile glinting in available light.
A track located on the rehaut frames the canvas. Each minute is denoted with a crisp white stroke, while Arabic numerals, positioned at 5-minute intervals, aid interpretation. Positioned below noon, Pequignet’s name is presented in white text. At the base of the black canvas, the dial bears the inscription ‘Manufacture Française’, an indication of ‘old-world’ horology that is currently enjoying a renaissance.
Pequignet Attitude Onyx – case
Measuring 39 mm in diameter with a thickness of 9.20 mm, the steel case is a paragon of neatness. The domed sapphire crystal gently arcs towards the bezel, which in turn gently tapers towards the carrure (case middle). Nothing jars – everything is elegant and harmonious.
When the watch is viewed from the front, the bezel is slender, affording greater room for the expansive black canvas. The lugs are elegantly svelte, neatly uniting the strap with the watch head. When viewed from the side, the lugs gracefully arc downwards, contributing to the widespread perception of purity. The lug-to-lug distance is 46.85 mm and the watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap (equipped with an interchangeable strap system). The case is presented in a high-gleam finish and yet such exuberance remains tasteful and seemly.
Pequignet Calibre Initial
Pequignet describes itself as a ‘unique French Haute Horlogerie manufacturer’ and, based on my recent trip to its headquarters in Morteau to view the making of the Calibre Royal, I see little reason to argue.
Like the Calibre Royal, the Calibre Initial was developed at the Morteau HQ. Moreover, it is manufactured and assembled at the site. Pequignet does not pretend to make all parts in-house, stating that ‘72% of its components are made in France, with the remainder sourced from Switzerland, all within an 80 km radius of the Manufacture’.
The Calibre Initial is a self-winding movement measuring 28.2 mm in diameter with a thickness of just 4.2 mm. These modest dimensions have allowed the French marque to deliver a slender timepiece that sits at one with the wrist.
Despite its modest dimensions, the movement has an impressive power reserve of 65 hours. The brand also states that the winding mechanism features a ‘unique tooth profile’, which is said to enhance ‘mechanical efficiency while minimising component wear’.
Pequignet also states that the movement is ‘adjusted to six positions with a tolerance of -4 to +6 seconds per day’. To provide some context, for a watch to be certified as a chronometer by COSC, it must meet ‘7 eliminatory criteria’ including an average daily rate of -4 to +6 seconds per day. Although the Pequignet Attitude Onyx is not a COSC-certified chronometer, its precision compares favourably.
Should the wearer choose to look at the movement through the exhibition caseback, they will discover some attractive finishing. For instance, the partially openworked, bidirectional rotor features a grained finish while the brand’s fleur-de-lys emblem is presented in relief. Beneath the rotor, the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes and the mainplate is adorned with perlage.
Closing remarks
Regardless of gender, a person’s choice of attire says a lot about them. The black dinner suit is a go-to for any black-tie event, while a pair of black Oxford lace-ups, complete with a military polish, proves the perfect complement to a lounge suit. Likewise, a little black dress is a versatile garment, suited to lots of occasions. In a similar vein, the Pequignet Calibre Initial is a versatile watch that is suitable for any social situation.
The black onyx dial eschews clutter, conversing with the wearer in clear tones. The apparent simplicity of this Pequignet watch belies its complexity. Its warm tones are juxtaposed with white chaste text. Courtesy of its graceful lines, the model nuzzles the wrist and seduces the beholder. Moreover, the highly precise movement is slender, yet will run autonomously for 65 hours, and is endowed with some very agreeable finishes.
Some individuals shout, but say little. However, this timepiece speaks volumes but in gentle tones, saying much about its wearer.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Pequignet Attitude Onyx
- Reference: 9060448
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 39 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes
- Movement: Calibre Initial, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 21 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap – black alligator strap, lined in black leather and paired with a steel pin buckle
- Price – €3,500 including tax (RRP as of 13.10.2026)