Perrelet Turbine Rainbow
The Perrelet Turbine Rainbow proves the perfect antidote for the winter blues with its vibrantly-hued dial and pirouetting turbine. Featuring a polycarbonate and carbon fibre case and a superb in-house movement, the Calibre P-331-MH, there are many reasons to take a look at this upbeat timepiece.
Bright blue skies, sun-kissed fields, golden sands and turquoise seas are the essential ingredients for a fabulous summer. Inevitably, temperatures drop, autumn leaves fall to the ground and winter arrives. As colour drains from the landscape and December days arrive, everything is suddenly dressed in monochrome tones and the overall mood becomes somewhat sombre.
Rainbows serve as an antidote for winter woes. They are composed of bright colours, evoking feelings of joy and optimism. A pot of gold at the end of the rainbow may sound fanciful, but it has been the subject of many a childhood dream. The rainbow is a symbol of unity, a metaphor for hope and a modern-day allegory for ethical and racial diversity. Quite simply, rainbows convey positivity and elevate the prevailing mood of everyone nearby.
Now, with the release of its new watch, the Turbine Rainbow, Perrelet unites the worlds of rainbows and horology. The timepiece embraces multiple hues, employing all of the frequencies that constitute the electromagnetic spectrum. However, the Perrelet Turbine Rainbow doesn’t fully reject monochromatic tones. Indeed, a number of components are presented in various shades of black. As a result, this watch juxtaposes exuberance and solemnity, conferring a fascinating appearance worthy of close inspection.
The Turbine model (2009)
The self-winding movement was invented by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in 1777. The eponymous Perrelet brand of today remains a strong advocate of the self-winding movement, manifest with the many automatic models currently within its product portfolio. In 1995, the Maison released the ‘Double Rotor’. In addition to having a conventional oscillating mass, positioned to the rear, this model also featured a second rotor positioned front of house. The dial-side rotor was functional, supplementing the energy supplied to the mainspring. However, it also delivered a degree of animation, attracting the wearer’s gaze with a dose of horological theatre.
In 2009, Perrelet unveiled the Turbine model with a conventional oscillating weight to the rear and a ‘turbine’ to the front that resembled the turbine blades found on an aeroplane engine. The propeller vanes, made of black anodised aluminium, covered most of the lower dial, save for the 12 gaps positioned in between.
When a Turbine model is affixed to the wearer’s wrist, any natural motion of the arm causes the propeller to burst into life. As it briskly rotates, the lower dial is revealed. It is the action of the propeller rotating that imbues the dial with an extraordinary degree of vitality.
With the Double Rotor of 1995, both oscillating weights sent power to the barrel, however, the Perrelet Turbine model is different. The oscillating weight to the rear harnesses power from the motion of the wearer’s wrist, thereby energising the mainspring. However, the propeller to the front is purely aesthetic. Indeed, it is not connected to the automatic train as this would reduce the rotational speed of the propeller, impairing the animated spectacle.
Perrelet Turbine Rainbow (2022)
On the latest interpretation of the Turbine model, the hour and minute hands resemble two stiletto blades, precisely taking aim at the markings adorning the nearby minute track. They are treated with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility, day or night. The crimson-toned central sweep seconds hand is supremely slender and fitted with an openworked counterweight.
The watch features an inclined hour track that projects from the minute track with the propeller and lower dial positioned below. Arabic numerals proclaim the even-numbered hours, while trapezoidal indexes denote the intervening values. Each hour value is presented in a different colour of the rainbow. Moreover, this rainbow theme is maintained even in dim light conditions, courtesy of the ingenious use of Super-LumiNova. The Maison has cleverly paired the emission of the SLN to match the daytime appearance of each hour marker.
Such fastidious attention to detail is manifest throughout this colourful creation. Each Arabic numeral on the hour track sits on its own plinth, which in turn projects slightly beyond the track. This subtle detail wonderfully accentuates the different heights of the various dial elements, further contributing to the model’s aesthetic appeal.
The brand’s name and logo, along with the year Abraham-Louis Perrelet invented the self-winding movement, are shown in crisp white tones, applied to the underside of the sapphire crystal. The wearer could easily believe the white text is levitating above the components below. This is just one of several optical illusions that the Swiss marque employs on this complex dial.
Each vane of the turbine/propeller is multifaceted, toying with light as it rapidly rotates. When spinning at speed, the black vanes virtually disappear from view, thereby revealing the lower dial in full. In this instance, as the model name implies, Perrelet has applied numerous colours to the lower dial, encompassing every shade of the rainbow.
The lower dial, effectively a disc, is populated with small dots, seemingly arranged at random. It is described by the Maison as ‘reminiscent of the “drip painting” technique used by the famous early 20th century American painter, Paul Jackson Pollock’.
When appraising the dial, while the turbine pirouettes at speed, one is struck by the energy of the dynamic scene presented. It fizzes and pops with vitality and yet, despite its complexity, the dial remains eminently simple to read.
Polycarbonate and carbon fibre case
The Perrelet Turbine Rainbow has an alter ego. Where the dial grooves on the dance floor, the case sits in the corner of the room, quiet and sultry. The case body is made from polycarbonate and carbon fibre, a combination that is chemical resistant, unaffected by temperature changes and extremely light. This strong silent type proves the perfect foil for the exuberant dial, dancing nearby.
Perrelet has not shied from using numerous materials. For example, the flat bezel and caseback are made from stainless steel and coated with black PVD. The caseback also features a pane of sapphire crystal affording views of the Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH.
Both the caseback and the caseband sport a series of fluted lines, introducing texture to the composition as well as, once again, toying with light.
Measuring 44mm in diameter, the Perrelet Turbine Rainbow delivers much wrist presence, while its generous scale also provides sufficient room for the lower dial to shine. Featuring an integrated water-resistant calf-leather strap, the watch wears smaller than its stated dimensions would suggest, thanks to the absence of conventional lugs.
Calibre P-331-MH
Upholding Perrelet’s longstanding relationship with self-winding movements, the Turbine Rainbow is fitted with the in-house automatic calibre P-331-MH. Its oscillating weight is open-worked, rhodium-plated and features satin-brush and colimaçon, while the bridges are also appointed with perlage. Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the watch will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Perrelet is part of a group comprising six companies with the combined expertise to make all movement components including escapements, balance wheels and hairsprings. Its watchmaking prowess is beyond reproach, something the Maison has chosen to back up by subjecting the calibre P-331-MH to the scrutiny of two independent bodies, COSC and Laboratoire Dubois (see later). Last year, I wrote about this movement in much detail, should you wish to learn more about its composition.
Chronofiable certification
Chronofiable certification is provided by Laboratoire Dubois. Watches undergo an ageing cycle to simulate the effects of wearing which includes subjecting the watch head to shocks, wear and magnetism. Tests include measuring the pull and push forces on the crown stem. The movement is subjected to shock tests including a ‘free-fall’ test of up to 5000G. Furthermore, the movement is put through 20,000 ‘impacts’ as well as heat stresses (15°C, 30°C and 55°C). The duration of the tests lasts 21 days, simulating the effects of wear over six months.
Additional test includes checking functions, rate and amplitude, power reserve and winding rate (automatic movements). The water-resistance of the watch is also subject to the in-house scrutiny of Perrelet’s quality assurance personnel.
COSC certification
The calibre P-331MH movement has also undergone exhaustive testing by COSC. This non-profit organisation was created by five watchmaking cantons (Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Soleure and Vaud) along with the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH). A watch that passes COSC’s rigorous testing regime is certified as a ‘chronometer’.
In order to fulfil the requirements of COSC, a movement is subjected to a battery of tests over a 15-day period. Moreover, it is tested in five different positions and at three different temperatures. Throughout the evaluation period, its precision must remain within COSC’s stipulated range of -4 and +6 seconds per day.
Closing remarks
If you have never previously seen a Perrelet Turbine, then you first have to set aside any preconceptions about what constitutes a watch dial. In this instance, the conventional one-dimensional display is supplanted by a multi-level, animated, mechanical vista. The resultant artistic canvas is unlike anything else currently on sale.
When the turbine is stationary, the spaces between each of the 12 blades provide a peekaboo glimpse of the lower dial membrane. However, once the turbine takes flight, the vanes virtually disappear from view, revealing the lower dial in all its glory.
In terms of the Turbine Rainbow, Perrelet has painted a canvas with a myriad of dots, encompassing a plethora of tones. However, rest assured, the Swiss marque has not sacrificed functionality on the altar of style. This is a practical watch, imparting time in a highly intelligible format and it’s a watch that is ideally suited to daily wear. Nevertheless, despite its suitability for daily use, it continues to put a grin on my face. I can appreciate the warmth of its animated smile and I derive pleasure witnessing its vivacious dance and ebullient demeanour. Once again, Perrelet demonstrates its ability to produce a serious watch that knows how to have fun.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Rainbow
- Reference: A8003/1
- Case: Case body in polycarbonate and carbon fibre; bezel in stainless steel with black matte PVD coating; diameter 44mm; height 13.82mm; water resistance 10ATM (100m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours
- Strap: Water-resistant black calf leather with grey stitching and rubber lining. Folding clasp in black PVD stainless steel embellished with the Perrelet logo
- Price: 4,950 CHF (RRP as of 28.7.2022)