The Roger Dubuis Management Team – Part Three
In this feature, Angus Davies chats to the Roger Dubuis management team and asks them numerous questions, eager to learn more about the brand and its love for ‘Hyper Horology’.
An essential requirement for any company is to assemble an effective team. Indeed, each departmental function should operate like a well-oiled machine; efficient and effective. However, someone needs to assume responsibility for overseeing a business and formulating an effective strategy.
At Roger Dubuis, there are several professionals in senior roles, however, three individuals, in particular, are responsible for steering the Genevan Maison to greatness. The Roger Dubuis management team includes Gregory Bruttin (Product Strategy Director), Sadry Keiser (Chief Marketing Officer) and Nicola Andreatta (CEO). I have interviewed Mr Andreatta previously, but, until recently, I had not met Messrs Bruttin and Keiser.
While I am familiar with the typical responsibilities of a CEO and CMO (Chief Marketing Officer), Mr Bruttin’s particular remit is incredibly varied. Indeed, he oversees new product development, design, production, quality control, Poinçon de Genève certification, some marketing responsibilities, etc … Quite simply, Mr Bruttin’s office door must be permanently open as numerous personnel line-up to report to debrief him.
During my visit to the Manufacture, I had the opportunity to interview the triumvirate of aforementioned directors.
Sadry Keiser (Chief Marketing Officer)
Whereas some of the most prestigious expressions of watchmaking are termed ‘Haute Horlogerie’, a description that could easily be applied to Roger Dubuis, your Maison has chosen to employ a unique term to define its products, ‘Hyper Horology’. Can you explain what you mean?
Roger Dubuis has trademarked ‘Hyper Horology’ as it conveys our unique approach to watchmaking. While some people view ‘excess’ in a negative light, we view it as an attribute of the brand. It transcends mere words, expressing a mindset that is evident in our products. Roger Dubuis represents the epitome of contemporary watchmaking, producing avant-garde masterpieces for the wrist. We only produce low numbers of watches each year, meaning our products are very exclusive.
Some rivals may describe themselves in the same way, but it’s not about mere words, you have to act on it, making daring and disruptive products in order to deliver genuine ‘Hyper Horology’. Underpinning our philosophy are the groundbreaking calibres that we are known for. They are excessive, extravagant, slightly mad…. these terms serve to spur us on to achieve more.
How do you communicate your values?
Besides communicating the thinking behind ‘Hyper Horology’ and the notion of excess, exclusivity, daring and disruptive products, we continuously refine our message in order to convey who we are and what our products represent.
We accept that our watches will polarise opinion, but they are intended to provoke reactions. Our expertise is unrivalled and we continuously design watches for the future as well as demonstrate we are fearless in our determination to challenge the rules of traditional watchmaking.
Our brand has the technical expertise to back up the messages we convey, a strength some of our rivals say they have, despite lacking our Maison’s credibility.
Our primary goal is to set the tone of the brand, ensuring this is perceived in the same way by the public, and making it clear what Roger Dubuis represents.”
What does being a Manufacture mean to you?
We are a comparatively young Maison and yet we have integrated all of the necessary competences within the Manufacture, drawing on the expertise of talented individuals. While we respect traditional watch companies and their methods, we believe there is an alternative path for those brands wishing to embrace the future. We employ both radical know-how and state of the art technology, coupled with unsurpassed craftsmanship.
While we can recognise challenges just like other firms, we often view them differently. For example, we don’t believe traditional rules should inhibit innovation or prevent us from adding value.
Many of your products bear the Poinçon de Genève. What does this deliver?
The Poinçon de Genève has partially led to our obsession for attention to detail and continues to provide an impetus for improving quality. It’s like a cultural osmosis where the attention to detail in one area of production has a beneficial effect on other areas of the Manufacture.
What are your thoughts about the interface between craftsmanship and automation?
The motives for selecting a Roger Dubuis watch are often emotional. If processes become too automated at the expense of human involvement, then it would diminish the allure of our products, making them seem more like commodities rather than products of passion.
What does the future hold for the Maison?
We have to continuously educate our staff and transmit our values throughout the workforce.
Our industry requires one generation to impart knowledge to the next generation. If this interest in watchmaking, and the expertise we require, disappears in a few years time, then it will be an issue for the whole of the industry. We have to perpetuate traditions, but we also have to adapt to new materials and techniques without downgrading what we offer. It may seem counter-intuitive for a watchmaker with a traditional background to have to adapt, but we have to be innovative in order to keep creating revolutionary hyper horology.
Gregory Bruttin (Product Strategy Director)
Why is Roger Dubuis a Manufacture?
There are many secrets relating to our movements, especially those of a technical nature. This is one of the main reasons we make our movements in-house rather than outsource them to others.
Roger Dubuis is synonymous with making skeleton movements. Please tell me more.
Our Maison released its first skeleton movement around 2006/7. We wanted to play with the technical aspects of the movement in order to achieve a particular look. Over the years, this approach has allowed us to play even more with openwork aesthetics, creating interesting three-dimensional structures. By separating the mainplate from other movement components, it has allowed us to use different colours and finishes. I predict that, in the future, we will have the possibility to fine-tune all of our in-house skills allowing us to develop new ideas with colour, etc.
I visited the Manufacture in 2012 and, at the time, I was struck by the number of modern, high-tech machines in use. I expected that a company making exclusive watches would out-source more of the manufacturing tasks. Recently, I visited your premises and noticed that you have acquired lots of new machines. Can you elaborate?
Roger Dubuis has CNC, profile turning and wire erosion machines. As I mentioned earlier, this allows us to perform tasks in-house and, by default, keep our trade secrets and know-how within the confines of our Manufacture.
We have repeatedly updated our machines. For example, some of our newer CNC machines can process plates on both sides without the need for manually rotating them. Likewise, some of these machines are smaller, taking up less room, making them ideal for the workshop, but also in the R&D department where space is limited. The 3D axis CNC machines we use are state of the art and deliver an incredibly high degree of precision.
Can we talk about finishing?
Roger Dubuis makes ‘Haute Horlogerie’ and often endows movements with some finishes which can be described as traditional eg mirror polishing. However, we also try to employ a new generation of finishes to our movements. Our watchmakers are constantly pushing the boundaries, sometimes bending them, to produce what’s never been seen before.
One of the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève is that we remove any signs of machining, by using agreed finishing techniques. This finishing also enhances corrosion resistance, removes any burrs which can inhibit the motion of components and, of course, makes the components look good.
I note that on the new Monobalancier EON Gold, the pallet lever features silicon pallets instead of the customary synthetic ruby pallets. What is the reason for this and what other changes should we be aware of?
Our objective is to make a watch that is not adversely affected by gravity, that you can wear every day without having to worry about shocks. To achieve this, we sought to increase the inertia serving the escapement and the balance wheel, but without enlarging the barrel.
We chose silicon, not for any marketing reasons, but because it delivers several useful benefits. Indeed, our motivation for using it was to enhance product quality. The material is usually purple, however, we did not like its appearance, so we dyed it black.
By using silicon, the shape of the escape wheel can be optimised, thereby delivering superior efficiency. We also made the pallets curved, once again, improving efficiency.
The escape wheel and pallet lever are also treated with a diamond coating, mitigating friction and improving longevity. In fact, by using silicon with a diamond coating for the escape wheel and pallet lever, we increased performance by 20%. The new Monobalancier EON Gold has a power reserve of 72 hours, 10 hours more than its predecessor.
I’ve noticed that the new Monobalancier EON Gold has a free-sprung balance. Furthermore, the inertia weights on the balance wheel are positioned in-board, thereby mitigating air turbulence. Can you provide more details?
Yes, this model is equipped with a free-sprung balance and the inertia weights, or masselottes, are located on the spokes of the balance wheel, thereby reducing air turbulence. In addition, we also gave much consideration to air perturbation. The position of other components, located near the balance wheel can create unhelpful turbulence, something we clearly wanted to avoid.
Roger Dubuis is one of only a few brands that offers watches equipped with a micro-rotor. Many companies struggle to create sufficient inertia from a micro-rotor able to energise a mainspring. However, assuming this obstacle is surmounted, the micro-rotor takes up less room and provides superior views of a finely finished movement. Can you tell me a little about the micro-rotor fitted to the new Monobalancier EON Gold?
Our Maison produced its first micro-rotor in 2005. On the former version of the Monobalancier, the micro-rotor was made of gold, however, on the new model we have moved to tungsten. This material is heavier, hence we can produce greater inertia, delivering superior performance. The micro-rotor does include some gold elements, albeit these are added purely for aesthetic reasons.
In terms of the Poinçon de Genève, I am aware that it imposes many requirements on watch brands both in terms of finishing and overall quality, however, I believe it also necessitates producing far more paperwork. Can you tell me more about this?
We produce watches which are of the finest quality, so-called ‘Haute Horlogerie’. As a proud Geneva-based company, we wanted to apply the prestigious Poinçon de Genève to our products. However, we produce contemporary expressions of fine watchmaking, we’re daring and we never cease innovating. Sometimes this may necessitate working with the Poinçon de Genève in order to introduce new materials and finishes that will appeal to our audience.
With regards to the paperwork, you are correct. Usually, the making of one component would necessitate one drawing. However, with the Poinçon de Genève we may have to produce three drawings, showing the amount of material before and after a finishing. For example, if Côtes de Genève is applied to a surface, 0.03mm of the bridge surface is removed. This must be shown on an additional drawing. Where different techniques are used on one component, this may necessitate producing additional drawings. If you can imagine how many parts we produce for each watch, then you can begin to imagine the vast number of drawings required.
Nicola Andreatta (CEO)
Can you provide a brief overview of Roger Dubuis?
Our designs are very avant-garde. They showcase our creativity, our radical know-how and our innovative spirit. We often say that Roger Dubuis is very polarising. However, we choose to be fearless and evoke a sense of passion with each watch we make.
Roger Dubuis’s architectural approach to design reveals the movement, making it an aesthetic element.
We are seeking to iconise the Excalibur collection… developing skeleton watches from conception to completion. It is this approach that makes our watches stand out from the crowd and provides a credible alternative to classical watchmaking.
Does this mean that you do not intend to launch an additional range of models to sit alongside the Excalibur collection?
We do not wish to confuse the market by offering something that is radically different from what we are known for.
Roger Dubuis was founded in 1995, which makes the brand comparatively young in the Haute Horlogerie market segment. Do you think this is a strength or a weakness?
The fact that we do not have the burden of a long history is a positive thing for a hyper creative brand as it doesn’t inhibit our opportunities to evolve. We are rule breakers, we’re rebellious and we are visionaries, characteristics that are compatible with our relative youth.
Does Roger Dubuis make bespoke watches and, if so, what degree of personalisation do you offer?
‘Rarities by Roger Dubuis’ allows clients to order a made-to-measure version of any model within our collection, providing a wonderful means of personal expression. In addition, a client can request a fully bespoke creation that fulfils their precise requirements.
How do you view the future of the mechanical watch?
We have to create mechanical watches that solve the issues of today. Yes, we have to deliver performance, but we also need to do something that has not been done before. We are always seeking to deliver superior performance. My personal motivation is not to make more pieces, but to make better pieces.
Every time we conceive a new calibre, it must incorporate at least two patented features, otherwise, it wouldn’t be innovative. We are not about making the same thing again and again. We have to revolutionise and challenge the status quo.
For instance, with the new Monobalancier in black ceramic, it’s interesting because the material can be finished in exactly the same way as metal.
Whilst touring your production facilities, I saw a rectangular block of forged carbon that had been supplied by Lamborghini. I wrongly assumed your relationship with the Italian carmaker was purely a marketing tool, however, clearly, that is not the case. Are there other ways in which both firms collaborate?
Gregory Bruttin meets with his counterparts from Lamborghini every 3 months and they discuss ways in which we can help one another including exploring opportunities for technology transfer.
I can honestly say that touring the Manufacture was fascinating and allowed me to see first-hand your incredible in-house expertise. Do you ever invite clients to look around the Manufacture?
Yes, we do. It is interesting to see how the perception of our brand dramatically changes once a client has visited the Manufacture and witnessed what we do first-hand.
Closing remarks
Classical watches can be very attractive and beautifully made, however, they can sometimes appear a tad ‘samey’ and even dull. As I spoke to Sadry, Gregory and Nicola, it became abundantly clear, Roger Dubuis is very different and incredibly inspiring.
The luxury marque has carved an interesting niche for itself. It makes watches that freely display calibres in exquisitely finished form. In addition, the designs bestow an enchanting spectacle of various components dancing with vitality.
The styling of some Roger Dubuis timepieces may not be to everyone’s liking, but the quality is beyond reproach. The fact that many of the company’s watches are subject to the independent scrutiny of the Poinçon de Genève reaffirms that ‘excellence’ and ‘contemporary’ are not mutually exclusive. Indeed, I left the Manufacture feeling ‘hyper horology’ provides a fascinating alternative to the products made by watchmaking’s old guard.
Further reading